Ford 1700 Hydraulic Filter Clogging-photo

[JC-jetro]

I'll have to look at the manual and see what panels I can remove easily to get access to do such spraying. As mentioned in original post, I've already ran 50/50 diesel/tractor fluid through it. It that was a mistake, the damage is done. Thanks, Dean

There is no panel to take out. You can take out the lift cover to have access below. I do not recommend it at all as it is a lot of work for not much gain. As you withdraw the screen leave you a good size hole to send a nozzle in and sweep up the bottom of diffy. If you use a shop vac you obviously dirty it up along with the inside of your shop vac hose. I used a piece of garden hose Mounted on a stiff 1 gallon clear bottle (apple juice), poke a hole on the side and inserted shop vac hose in the bottle to make a "vacuum suction cup" and sucked it all up in to a container without getting shop vac dirty. with garden hose you can cover a lot of area around the bottom of diffy.

JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

did you remove all the drain plugs when you changed the hyd oil. There is a drain plug that is hidden by the draw bar. The first time I changed the hyd. oil in my 1900 I missed it.
Bill

 

[stuartshomepc]

The problem with the water is that it is not soluble in the oil, or diesel. Sometimes something, like methyl Alcohol (methanol/ dry gas) or ethanol (booze, E85 car fuel (85% ethanol, 15%gas)) binds both to the fuel and the water. Methanol can be hard on rubber parts, so I would not use that. If everything can't be raised to the boiling point of water (212 degrees) it must be removed my some other means, like the manual cleaning below from JC-jetro.

In most motor oils, you'll see they have a "detergent" in them. That's to help keep the sludge in solution so that the oil filter can trap it. Now, I am not the real expert but I doubt that hydraulic oil or diesel has any detergents in them. And old gear or diff lube will get crud on the bottom. Unlike in an engine, there is not a lot of movement in the oil to keep heavy contaminates from accumulating on the bottom. It's one reason that oil pick ups never really hit the bottom of a pan. Grunge build up and water.

I would not look for a flushing that would solve your issue. Open the area's and clean. Sometime using a solvent to break up the stuff is bad if you can't get all the crud out (like pulling the covers and wiping well). It may break lose pieces of crud that have been sitting there and not causing any trouble.

Dean,

even with oil change you might still have a bunch of gunk in the diffy floor. if you look closely the filter screen sits higher than the bottom of the diffy. All oil returning to diffy lose much velocity and as a result things tend to settle. when i inspect the dip stick for oil quality it looked good till the time the dcreen blockage caused pump cavitation on my rig. I opened up the drain in the bottom of diffy and nothing cam out. I made a hook out of some stiff wires poked it in and brought out a dead rat looking crud right out of the bottom hole. I later mad a vacuum suction cup and thru screen opening literally vacu sucked about 2 quarts of crap from the bottom. I later opened up the cover in the transmission cover and it was clean. All the crud accumulated back in the diffy. change out of the oil is going to be at best marginal to pick up heavy crud in the diffy and I would not use any solvent myself to clean the diffy fearful of deteriorating gasket or seal.

JC,

 

[Opti-Mist]

Barium precipitates into a sludge like that in the presence of water. At one time this was not unknown to happen.

 

[Soundguy]

The problem with the water is that it is not soluble in the oil, or diesel. Sometimes something, like methyl Alcohol (methanol/ dry gas) or ethanol (booze, E85 car fuel (85% ethanol, 15%gas)) binds both to the fuel and the water. Methanol can be hard on rubber parts, so I would not use that. In most motor oils, you'll see they have a "detergent" in them. That's to help keep the sludge in solution so that the oil filter can trap it. .

alcohol is a polar solvent.. water is polar.. you can 'disolve' the water in t he sump and allow it to exist in soloution ( disolved ) so it can be drained.

a detergent will emulsify it and allow it to be trapped by the filter.. etc... not disolve or solvate it. 2 different things ..

addatives like seafoam transtune will dissolve and carry the water out...

soundguy

 

[rr2j]

where is this filter located ? a friend just ask me today where it was located on his 1700 ford .

 

[Soundguy]

i don't have a manual for a 1700.. howevr you can hit the dealer site and pull up exploded diagrams from CNH / parts site.

If it's like many tractors.. it's a tube stye in the base of the center section..

 

[Soundguy]

here, I did your homework for you.

part #15.

easy to find. just follow the tube...

 

[JC-jetro]

More visual aid.

JC,

 

[formalliving]

Dean,

Look at the first page of my thread from 6 years ago. Been there , done that department. I did use a paint tray, a cup of diesel and old tooth brush and brought the filter back to life. You will have much sediment in the floor of the diffy that really needs to be cleaned up. Read the thread and it'll give you some suggestion.


JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/88973-sos-i-have-my-first.html

JC,
Some great information and thank you for posting a very detailed account. I had visions of pumps and valves dancing in my head (priced it out too). As they say, "plan for the worst and hope for the best".
Best Regards,
CMCS