Fixing a mower deck...

[aczlan]

The gauge wheel on the front of our BX2660's mower deck has broken off twice now. I suspect that its due to having the wheels most of the way down for mowing in the field. Any suggestions on how to best beef it up when I fix it?
Broken parts:

The unbroken side (note how far down the wheel sticks):


Aaron Z

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

If you lived down here, it would happen because you've been scalping fire ant beds that are 2 ft tall. But I'd first create a plate that I'd weld to the deck, then make another that would bolt to it. Then it would be a matter of changing it out if it breaks again as you can easily build something stronger than that to work, and a bolt on assembly would facilitate future repairs.

 

[Arc weld]

You could clean it up and bevel it before welding it back on and then box in the bottom of the mount with 3/16" or 1/4" plate. The boxed in piece could be wider(easy to put a fillet weld from the top) and wrap around the round tube a little more. That would add a lot of strength. Drill a small hole in the middle of the plate so that any moisture inside would run out. For even more strength you do could something similar on the top over the existing mount.

Maybe Shield Arc could draw a picture of what I'm talking about? Basically if the mount is say 2 1/2" wide on the deck and 1" wide on the round tube for the shaft, make it 3 " wide on the deck and 1 3/4" wide around the tube and about 3/4" longer to wrap around the tube more. Remove the grease fitting from the tube before welding. The plate would be easy to weld to the deck and tube if you flip the deck over to weld it in the horizontal/flat position.

 

[aczlan]

Hmmm, I have a piece of 2x2 3/16 angle in the shop. I bet I could cut two pieces of that to sit on top of the mount and extend down on each side (ie: lay a piece on top of each side of the bracket after welding it back together and trim them to fit. I could probably even drill some holes for plug welds to better fasten it to the existing piece.
I'll take a look at it tonight and see if the neighbor next door (who has built a thing or two in his time) can come over to see what he thinks in person.

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

If you lived down here, it would happen because you've been scalping fire ant beds that are 2 ft tall.

Seen a few of those (looks entertaining when you drop a push mower on top of one). I suspect that this is mostly from ruts and rocks as this is the side that goes next to any obstacles.

Aaron Z

 

[CNC Dan]

Looks like not enough joint length on the pyramid to tube connection.
Cut off the pyramid, and make one that comes to less of a point so that it has a taller connetion to the tube.
A longer tube may be nessary.

 

[Arc weld]

Boxing in the mount on the bottom will add a lot of strength. The bottom of the vertical pyramid pieces on tube is a place for a crack to start and the first place force is applied if the castor hits something. Boxing this in and welding the piece across and around the sides of the tube will remove the potential for a crack to start on the vertical part. It could be done to look very professional too instead of scabbing angle iron or something else on it. Look at how they strengthen old model A's and other old cars to make hot rods, they box in the C channel frame. The pyramid caster mount is basically just a C shape as well with the bottom open.

 

[aczlan]

Here is what I did. Not sure how it will hold up, but it should be an improvement.
I took a piece of tube like I used on the trailer tongue last night (see: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/311337-stick-welding-101-ac-buzzbox.html#post3765930 ) and pounded it with a 3# sledge until it was oval enough to fit inside the "pyramid" piece, then welded it to the piece that broke off (sorry, I didnt get any more pictures of this part).
I welded it with 1/8" 6011 at 90-100 amps (100 at the start, then dropped to 90 as I got to the end of the rod because it was running too hot):

Then I tacked the part that broke off back on:

Made sure it fit:

Welded the top:


Then the sides:



Then welded the tube onto the bottom (I don't think it will go far, but its not pretty. Had a hard time getting the rod in there and it moved after I tacked it on ):


Aaron Z