Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points

George2615 · May 12, 2014

Bob,
See your pic attached. This is what I tried to explain in my previous post and I think James indicates the same. Pull the pin on right, Raise the implement and push the arm in the direction of arrow then replace the pin. Do this on each side and you should be good to go.

k0ua · May 12, 2014

George2615 said:
Bob,
See your pic attached. This is what I tried to explain in my previous post and I think James indicates the same. Pull the pin on right, Raise the implement and push the arm in the direction of arrow then replace the pin. Do this on each side and you should be good to go.

Yep, that is pretty much it.. he has the pins in the wrong (too long) holes because the joint is scissored together. This allows the implement to flop side to side.

YardBikeBob · May 12, 2014

George2615 said:
Bob,
I am running R4's 43x16.00-20. My picture (#3) shows the 37" width. I measured from inside lug of the left to inside lug of the right. Tires are 16" wide across the lug edge to lug edge.

Interesting. I went and took the measurements from the same place.

I have 32" lug-to-lug. My total amount of available play for the 3-point with this BB is 6". I think I'm getting a clue. The tractor is too skinny and the BB mounts are too fat. So I went and measured the mounting width for my M/F RC72 Cutter and it's max width is only 25" -- 5" less than the BB and I don't have trouble with it.

Ignore my little friend at 26 1/4!

So the dealer sold me a Woods 6' BB assuring me it was all set for Cat 1. Yet it appears to be spaced for Cat 2? Does Woods just bore a bigger hole and sell fatter pins for Cat 2 customers?

I'm thinking I'll have to shop for a longer Cat 1 pin and a wear washer in order to mount the 3-point arms on the inside.

Thanks again for the info.

Bob

k0ua · May 12, 2014

So that is what they mean by a "tick" mark :laughing:

George2615 · May 12, 2014

Or you could say his measurement is just a tick over 25"

YardBikeBob · May 12, 2014

k0ua said:
Yep, that is pretty much it.. he has the pins in the wrong (too long) holes because the joint is scissored together. This allows the implement to flop side to side.

Well, it all might seem good from your house. . . I am actually quite experienced at adjusting the stabilizer links. The pictures are with the tractor at rest and the BB on the ground. I think I have compounding errors.

Yes, the link mounts are bent. Design issue or user error? Pounding them flat will work until you back up the BB again. The links are compressed as far as the bent mounting ears allow.

The BB mounting widths are too wide for Cat 1 tractors and the pins are too short to mount the arms inboard. The arms are fully splayed when mounting the BB. You will not be able to push them in as suggested in the picture. So it will be my task to research longer Cat 1 pins for use with the BB.

And I've finally found something on the farm whose rear is too skinny. I hadn't really thought about that and its curious to have it pointed out. It's about the first thing on this LS I can't defend, Darn! What's real irritating is that I use the BB for ballast so it spends a lot of time chipping away at those tires.

Thanks, Bob

Hey, James, rainin'? Thick air & noisy around here.

k0ua · May 12, 2014

Hey, James, rainin'? Thick air & noisy around here.

Extremely dark and threatening here. It is like 9 o'clock, but no rain so far.

Underdog57 · May 12, 2014

YardBike, I have the the exact same tractor as you, here are some pics of mine with a Cat 1 quick-hitch attached.
Mine is nice and tight and doesn't sway much at all. I think you just need an adjustment.

George2615 · May 12, 2014

YardBikeBob said:
And I've finally found something on the farm whose rear is too skinny. I hadn't really thought about that and its curious to have it pointed out. It's about the first thing on this LS I can't defend, Darn! What's real irritating is that I use the BB for ballast so it spends a lot of time chipping away at those tires.

Thanks, Bob

Hey, James, rainin'? Thick air & noisy around here.

Well Bob, Since my 37" rear end is bigger than your 32" (Boy, that doesn't sound right) I guess you'll just have to break down and buy a Cat 1 BB that will fit your skinny rear end and ship the one you have up to me. I'll force myself to take it off your hands.

kco · May 12, 2014

YardBikeBob said:
Well, it all might seem good from your house. . . I am actually quite experienced at adjusting the stabilizer links. The pictures are with the tractor at rest and the BB on the ground. I think I have compounding errors.

Yes, the link mounts are bent. Design issue or user error? Pounding them flat will work until you back up the BB again. The links are compressed as far as the bent mounting ears allow.

The BB mounting widths are too wide for Cat 1 tractors and the pins are too short to mount the arms inboard. The arms are fully splayed when mounting the BB. You will not be able to push them in as suggested in the picture. So it will be my task to research longer Cat 1 pins for use with the BB.
And I've finally found something on the farm whose rear is too skinny. I hadn't really thought about that and its curious to have it pointed out. It's about the first thing on this LS I can't defend, Darn! What's real irritating is that I use the BB for ballast so it spends a lot of time chipping away at those tires.

Thanks, Bob

Hey, James, rainin'? Thick air & noisy around here.

I think the answer is to get longer pins to mount on the inside. They did that on my snowblower. For a box blade you may want to have a sleeve between the insides of the two gussets to help reduce twisting stress, which will be a lot more than for a snowblower. Here's the photo of my setup: