michael.white
Silver Member
Back in April of '23, my 3 point adjustable link (SBA370011581) broke:
I've been told that, since they're cast, they can't be welded. Of course, I didn't know that at first and I guess the guy I paid to weld it didn't know that either because what you're seeing above is the second time it broke. Anyway, I bought the tractor used back in '12 and figured maybe it was a bit abused, so I coughed up the $300 for a New Old Stock (NOS) one. Two years later, here's the NOS one:
AFAIK, I don't abuse my tractor - it gets used five times a year to 5' bush hog 4 or so moderately bumpy acres, pulls a 5' tiller and a two bottom plow through a 1000 square foot garden, and sometimes I hook up a log splitter. Dad's got a Ford 1700 with twice my 600 hours, and his adjustment link has bent but never sheared like this.
Now NOS ones are $500. I said screw that, I'm going to figure out something else. Here's what I came up with (NOTE: you will bend a fender):
These generic adjustment links (SKU 159750, I think for Kobota and others) are under $35, but the pivot part at the top is 3/4" while the TC-30 uses 7/8". So I removed the arm (you need a 10mm socket, some snapring pliers, and a hammer) and removed the 7/8" pin. I then bought a spacer that's used for a camshaft to reduce from 7/8" to 3/4" off of Amazon: Amazon.com
I trimmed the spacer down using a Dremel cut-off wheel to the same width as the 7/8" opening on the arm. If it's a bit short or long, that's OK. Hacksaw would also work.
I then bought nuts and bolts from McMaster-Carr (you can save some $$ if you can find them locally):
Again, you will dent your fender if you use this:
At this point I don't care about the dent - it's not a show tractor and it doesn't impact anything. I plan on giving it the rattle can treatment next time I remember to buy some.
All-in-all I'm in under $200, and that's including a second adjustment link (spare), a spare bolt, extra nuts, and extra washers. If you can find local hardware, you'll likely be in under $100. Plus if the link breaks again, it's much easier to find these generic links versus the New Holland ones.
I've used this to bush hog over my acres (takes a few hours) without issue. Anyway, hope this is helpful to anyone in a similar situation (or who knows someone in a similar situation).
I've been told that, since they're cast, they can't be welded. Of course, I didn't know that at first and I guess the guy I paid to weld it didn't know that either because what you're seeing above is the second time it broke. Anyway, I bought the tractor used back in '12 and figured maybe it was a bit abused, so I coughed up the $300 for a New Old Stock (NOS) one. Two years later, here's the NOS one:
AFAIK, I don't abuse my tractor - it gets used five times a year to 5' bush hog 4 or so moderately bumpy acres, pulls a 5' tiller and a two bottom plow through a 1000 square foot garden, and sometimes I hook up a log splitter. Dad's got a Ford 1700 with twice my 600 hours, and his adjustment link has bent but never sheared like this.
Now NOS ones are $500. I said screw that, I'm going to figure out something else. Here's what I came up with (NOTE: you will bend a fender):
These generic adjustment links (SKU 159750, I think for Kobota and others) are under $35, but the pivot part at the top is 3/4" while the TC-30 uses 7/8". So I removed the arm (you need a 10mm socket, some snapring pliers, and a hammer) and removed the 7/8" pin. I then bought a spacer that's used for a camshaft to reduce from 7/8" to 3/4" off of Amazon: Amazon.com
I trimmed the spacer down using a Dremel cut-off wheel to the same width as the 7/8" opening on the arm. If it's a bit short or long, that's OK. Hacksaw would also work.
I then bought nuts and bolts from McMaster-Carr (you can save some $$ if you can find them locally):
- Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw, Grade 8 Steel, 3/4"-16 Thread Size, 6" Long, Fully Threaded (92620A881)
- Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade 8 Steel SAE Washer with Material Certificate, for 3/4" Screw Size, 0.812" ID, 1.469" OD (98023A121)
- Zinc-Yellow-Chromate-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer for 3/4" Screw Size, 0.766" ID, 1.265" OD (91104A047)
- High-Strength Steel Hex Nut Grade 8, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 3/4"-16 Thread Size (94895A840)
- High-Strength Steel Thin-Profile Hex Nut Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 3/4"-16 Size (93839A840)
- Bolt
- Lock washer
- Flat washer
- Spacer
Again, you will dent your fender if you use this:
At this point I don't care about the dent - it's not a show tractor and it doesn't impact anything. I plan on giving it the rattle can treatment next time I remember to buy some.
All-in-all I'm in under $200, and that's including a second adjustment link (spare), a spare bolt, extra nuts, and extra washers. If you can find local hardware, you'll likely be in under $100. Plus if the link breaks again, it's much easier to find these generic links versus the New Holland ones.
I've used this to bush hog over my acres (takes a few hours) without issue. Anyway, hope this is helpful to anyone in a similar situation (or who knows someone in a similar situation).
