Refilling refrigerant in car/truck

   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #11  
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #12  
I use this tool for charging a/c units in autos Amazon.com: Interdynamics AFK-12 Arctic Freeze Auto Air Conditioning Smart Charge Recharge Kit - Pack of 1: Automotive By the way. I replaced the evap coil last year in my 2007 ram 2500 because of a leak. I used dye and saw the dye run out the condensate drain. Just like a home A/C system if you loose refrigerant,, there is a leak

Unless your are the dealer and tell me my 4yr old car (under warranty) "just lost" refrigerant through normal wear and tear and there was no leak. Asked them why my 10 year old car is still nice and cold and this car just magically loses it and they have no answer other than charge me $75 for a recharge. Low and behold 6 months later no AC again. Luckily the car is still under warranty for a few more months, but I can kiss that $75 goodbye though. Going to complain and see if they will do something like change the oil, air filter and rotate and balance the tires.
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #13  
Unless your are the dealer and tell me my 4yr old car (under warranty) "just lost" refrigerant through normal wear and tear and there was no leak. Asked them why my 10 year old car is still nice and cold and this car just magically loses it and they have no answer other than charge me $75 for a recharge. Low and behold 6 months later no AC again. Luckily the car is still under warranty for a few more months, but I can kiss that $75 goodbye though. Going to complain and see if they will do something like change the oil, air filter and rotate and balance the tires.

They must be calling a leak in the A/C system normal wear and tear. Any A/C doesn't just loose or use up the refrigerant . If the refrigerant is gone, there is a leak.. All they have to do is perform a nitrogen leak test. You loose pressure during the leak test,, there is a leak . Doesn't matter what type A/C system it is. What brand vehicle is it ?? most common vehicle leaks are,, compressor seals, lines connections (o rings) , evap coil, condenser coil. I have quit working on auto A/C systems unless, it's mine. Just not enough room to work
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #14  
They must be calling a leak in the A/C system normal wear and tear. Any A/C doesn't just loose or use up the refrigerant . If the refrigerant is gone, there is a leak.. All they have to do is perform a nitrogen leak test. You loose pressure during the leak test,, there is a leak . Doesn't matter what type A/C system it is. What brand vehicle is it ?? most common vehicle leaks are,, compressor seals, lines connections (o rings) , evap coil, condenser coil. I have quit working on auto A/C systems unless, it's mine. Just not enough room to work[/QUOTE


That is EXACTLY what I told the service manager. He told me they did a leak test (he may have said vacuum test) and did not find a leak. I said "where did it go, did it leak out." He said "well sometimes they leak a little, but not enough to show on the test and a recharge in not a warranty item". I then said "so it is leaking you just could not find it" He just shook his head and handed me the bill. Not wanting to argue anymore as I was picking it up before work, I just paid him and told him I would be back next spring when it all leaked out again and expect a refund when they found the leak and his reply was '" Don't worry if that happens we will take care of you" He was hoping that it would be fine until it was out of warranty and THEN find the leak. We will see how they handle it.

Mitsubishi Outlander
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #15  
While not a pro, I've been around the block a few times on AC systems.

First - get rid of the miracle-in-a-can AC recharge/Leak fix/lose weight while you sleep products. They can often cause real harm. Here's why. An AC system consists of a number of elements, but one could argue that what really makes it all work is the restriction or orifice. This is a tiny orifice that creates a back pressure in the system for the compressor to work against. By forcing compressed liquid refrigerant through this orifice into the evaporator, it causes the refrigerant to expand and vaporize and in the process, absorb a bunch of heat. This is what makes it all work. If you put in something meant to plug a small leak, well guess what it may very well end up plugging up?

There is only one proper way to do this, which is to get a set of gages. They have come down in price and up in availability so much that it is hard to argue against it. Unless you know what is going on on BOTH the high and low pressure sides, you really don't know what is going on. They may look confusing but are quite simple. They are color coded/sized so you can only connect the high pressure hose to the high side, and vice versa on the low. The part that puzzles people sometimes is the valevs/knobs. The LP hose is always connected to the LP gage. The HP hose is always connected to the HP gage. The knob opens the respective side to the CENTER hose, which is where you attach for vacuuming and recharging. Always start with both valves closed. You only add vapor to the LP side, if you want to be safe (can upright). So if you want to play it safe, only open the LP side valve when charging and keep the can upright. Getting the last bits in can be tough as the can loses pressure as it chills. So I get a pan of hot tap water to dip the can in and keep it warm. Plus I shake it a bit. Speeds it up a lot.

Now you stated you had a pressure of zero (assuming you trust the gage on the can...). You cannot just refill a system that is at zero as you will do nothing but mix new refrigerant with air, and make at best a poor performing system. The first step is to evacuate the system with a vacuum pump that is made for the task. These are not so common as gages, but can be found online for not ridiculous sums. Once you have fully evacuated the system, you can then charge it up through the gages with nothing but pure R134a, with no extra secret sauce in it. If you don't want to buy a pump, you need to find one or take it to a shop.

But backing up a step - you have a leak...as you know. If it is a slow leak on an old car, you may just want to keep recharging from time to time as it may not be worth the cost to find and fix the leak. And they can be a real bugger to find. I have chased one on my wife's Exploder for the past 5-6 years since I foolishly had a shop replace the compressor that went bad (didn't have time to do it myself. Grrrr) The car is old, and it needs a shot once a year in spring, so I just have been recharging it for a few years. We have maybe one more year left on this car. In fact, I just did the spring recharge today, but the leak appears to be a bit worse as it was reading zero for the first time. So I evacuated it, waited to see if it held (seemed to) and recharged it. My theory is the seals are shrinking enough in the bitter cold winter to let it leak out. We had an extra nasty winter, so that may be the reason...or it may just be getting worse.

You can try finding leaks with a UV kit. All systems come with UV dye from the factory, so you only need the light and the yellow glasses, and the darkest garage you can find. The glow of the dye is extremely faint, which is what makes it so hard to find. You will want to sit in total darkness for several minutes with the car (to adjust your eyes) before you try looking for it. Plus all the dirt and grime can obscure the dye too, so it pays to do a thorough cleaning first. Another hint - always wrap the gage fittings with paper towels when connecting/disconnecting otherwise you will spray UV dye everywhere from the little bit left in the fittings and then good luck tracking down your leak. I have never been able to find a leak this way, but sometimes you get lucky...

This is one of those things that takes more time to write than to show.... Hope this helps.
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #16  
sounds like the coupler on your kit is not working, the 100 psi is locked into the hose and wont release. Thats also why before you let the pressure out of the can it read zero.
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #17  
If you use a can with sealant in it and end up going to someone to service your system, warn them. Those expensive recycling / service units do not like the sealant and it can cost hundreds of dollars to fix one that is gummed up by the sealant.
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I checked with the vendor's customer service line, and they say that if the compressor is not running, then the symptoms I'm having will appear. There doesn't appear to be any kind of Schrader-style pin on the car's fitting, so maybe it only opens up when the compressor is running. I don't know how the valve could differentiate between high pressure on the outside and low pressure on the inside. Maybe it's a mechanical linkage, or maybe it references to ambient. Anyway, the customer service line said that if the system won't take refrigerant, it's probably a mechanical issue that won't be solved with this can. Bummer. Gamble: failed.
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #19  
When I bought my Ford Truck it would freeze you out (old R12 system) but over the years lack of using the truck the AC is no longer cooling. None of those handy dandy recharger cans for the old boy & I don;t drive it enough to worry about it. Usually use 2-70 air most times anyhow. Now the 94 T-Bird is R134 and still has factory seal on the fittings, cools to point I could make Popsicle in it on most ohio days, the Ford ZX2 compressor wont come on so figure it has low pressure shut off. No AC in it that way. Have the CAN of R134 from years ago but the ZX2 shrader valve also does not appear to have any thing to depress the can's valve side so I figured (I'm it's 4th owner) someone had it messed up. When there is 0 pressure in the AC does the shrader fitting on the low side pull back in or is the 134 systems designed so there is no pin to push down on?

M
 
   / Refilling refrigerant in car/truck #20  
Well this is not my thread but an update on my issue. They found the condenser had a leak and replaced it. After a bunch of civil discussions I was reimbursed for the system charge last summer, looks like they stood by their word and took care of me.
 

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