Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed

   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #151  
Duty cycle can work either way. If you were roll welding a large pipe with MIG, you could weld for 4 minutes continuous and then let the machine cool for 6. If you do small welds you might only weld for 15 seconds at a time and by the time you move to the next weld, the machine is completely cooled off. Maybe you're welding for a minute, stop for 5 seconds and weld for another minute. You get a little cooling but should still limit your welding to 4 minutes total out of 10.
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #152  
It isn't about the professional shops trying to keep hobby guys from welding, and it isn't about the welding machines, it's more about the POWER SUPPLY. Yes, 120v welders are handy because you can (theoretically) unplug Helen's washer and use that receptacle to build a boat trailer in the garage. HOW-ever, more likely than not, you'll find that the wall plug won't support the welder, at least not for very long. My neighbor has a 120v wire feed welder (Chicago-something brand) that he bought for fifty bucks from a guy who bought it from the guy who bought it at the country fair. NOBODY had ever been able to make it weld. I welded professionally for years, and have a nice stable of machines to use, but needed to tack something in MY KITCHEN (I was building an overhung table for my breakfast booth) so I borrowed the 120v "blaster" from the neighbor. FIRST I had to take it apart and assemble the drive spools correctly, after which I got it to weld for the very first time ever. When I say this machine was "limited" I mean VERY limited. Just about the time you had a decent weld going it would trip internally. I even built a tricky little raised mount for it with vent holes in the bottom to enhance cooling. About all it's good for is tacking something together so you can then weld it with a real welder. Is 240v current so rare that you need to buy something that will gradually burn out every 120volt plug in the place? Just think of an electrician stuffing #12 wires into a plug using those little holes in the back of the plug body, and how little contact that would have. Helen might have a tough time doing the next load of wash. How many times have you ever heard someone say: "Boy, I wish I had bought a smaller welder, with less capability."
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #153  
Arc, that's the way it was explained to me. Four minutes straight under the hood is a lot for anyone to deal with. Welding four minutes out of ten with very short breaks is possible, but could cause duty cycle issues.
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #154  
Yes, 120 v. migs will do a good job so long as the all the settings are correct, heat, wire speed, and wire size. However, having recently moved up to a 220 v unit, I was amazed at the difference. The 220 unit has more adjustability on the heat, not having "click" positions so you can dial it in to your work and it just seems to have better welding caracteristics than the 110 unit. Plus, the 220 unit came with a spool gun so you can weld aluminum. I don't think any 110 unit does. Just my take on the two.
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #155  
I can tell you this.. I have built a few things with my 120v mig and dont regret it. Of course I have wished for more power for full penetration, but I was able to weld something enough so it will hold for my own use. I never welded before and I am still learning. There were times I wished I could do aluminum, but just dont have the right cash flow for it. I dont care for making money welding and my welds are not pretty, but it works for me. My welder has saved me time and money by doing it myself. I am sure if I got a old 220 buzz box I will be amazed with the difference for home garage use, but the 120 portability is important to me for now. the scoffs I see from professional welders here - thats fine it dont bother me none because I know I am getting things fixed and done around my house and that is what I need. If I need something serious welded, I will go to a professional welder and I have and have no problems with that.

So to the OP -- do what you gotta do, and you will be happy getting things fixed yourself - even though you may need to do a long decent learning curve to try to do it right like I did and there is nothing like learning things the hard way so do let it bother you none.
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #156  
Is 240v current so rare that you need to buy something that will gradually burn out every 120volt plug in the place? Just think of an electrician stuffing #12 wires into a plug using those little holes in the back of the plug body, and how little contact that would have.
In the US it is. I've heard of a thing you can buy that plugs into two 120volt outlets to give you 240 volt power. UL aproved too. It's called "quick 220" or something like that.

I looked at the patents, and there isn't much to it. I could make one. And make it safer and cheaper too.

And those stupid push in connections on outlets. They should be outlawed. Every place I live I replace/re-connect the outlets.
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #157  
In the US it is. I've heard of a thing you can buy that plugs into two 120volt outlets to give you 240 volt power. UL aproved too. It's called "quick 220" or something like that.

I looked at the patents, and there isn't much to it. I could make one. And make it safer and cheaper too.

And those stupid push in connections on outlets. They should be outlawed. Every place I live I replace/re-connect the outlets.

The only way you are getting 220 from 2 outlets hooked together is if they are on different legs. Most likely 2 outlets near each other would be on the same circuit I would think?
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #158  
In the US it is. I've heard of a thing you can buy that plugs into two 120volt outlets to give you 240 volt power. UL aproved too. It's called "quick 220" or something like that.

I looked at the patents, and there isn't much to it. I could make one. And make it safer and cheaper too.

And those stupid push in connections on outlets. They should be outlawed. Every place I live I replace/re-connect the outlets.

The only way you are getting 220 from 2 outlets hooked together is if they are on different legs. Most likely 2 outlets near each other would be on the same circuit I would think?
 
   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #159  
In the US it is. I've heard of a thing you can buy that plugs into two 120volt outlets to give you 240 volt power. UL aproved too. It's called "quick 220" or something like that.

I looked at the patents, and there isn't much to it. I could make one. And make it safer and cheaper too.

That sounds interesting. And I agree with haveissues, that the 2 outlets would have to be on seperate legs.
And would probably have to be used with a 12awg extension cord.

Here's the link. It looks as though you would be limited to only 15 or 20 amps on 220.
Quick 220 Systems: Model A220-20D <br />20 Amp Power Supply <br /> Straight Blade Outlet
 
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   / Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed #160  
The only way you are getting 220 from 2 outlets hooked together is if they are on different legs. Most likely 2 outlets near each other would be on the same circuit I would think?

Two 110/120v receptacles in the same box would normally be on the same circuit, but two boxes in the same room, even along the same wall, are frequently wired on separate circuits so that the room will still have power if one breaker trips. Even then, though, you are right that they must be on different legs at the service panel in order to have 220/240v. Then it will work o.k., and it's easy to make up a pigtail to do it. Joining two 120v outlets that are on separate circuits but on the same side of the service panel will give us 120v.

Either way, doubt there are many local fire marshals or electrical inspectors that would be o.k. with it. :eek: I've seen it used for very temporary applications (e.g., 220v floor sanders, 220v metal and woodworking machines at shows). There is big safety issue, as the breakers are not ganged together with a bridge bar as in a regular 220v breaker, so one side can trip, while the other side stays hot.
 

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