Cutting up to 1/4in steel - what do you recommend?

[dragoneggs]

If you are going to cut metal with a worm drive saw. (I have them for wood.) be carful. There no clutch in the saw if it should get stuck. The saw could pull right out of your hand faster than you can think.
Go slow and take your time.
I use a Milwaukee 6370-20 8 in. Metal Cutting Saw. I use Milwaukee 8" blades for my saw.
There are 7 1/4" metal cutting blade to fit your saw. Use a 48 or 50 tooth blade. It will cut smooth and less chance of the blade getting caught.
View attachment 381350

Good point... there is quite a bit of torque in my worm drive! Amazed at how much more than a traditional 'skil' saw. I like the reviews on the Milwaukee cold cut saw but they are pricey and I want something for curves as I already have an abrasive chop saw.

 

[dragoneggs]

What do you think about a vertical 14in bandsaw with the proper blade? I have my eye on a used Laguna for woodworking... and wondering if that could also do a fine job on metal?

 

[Big Barn]

What do you think about a vertical 14in bandsaw with the proper blade? I have my eye on a used Laguna for woodworking... and wondering if that could also do a fine job on metal?

Quite a bit of work to reduce speed enough. Ericher69 had good luck building his. I think he has a post earlier in this thread.

Terry

 

[dragoneggs]

What do you think about a vertical 14in bandsaw with the proper blade? I have my eye on a used Laguna for woodworking... and wondering if that could also do a fine job on metal?

Never mind... it got sold out from underneath me! Dang it. Wanted it for woodworking and a heck of a deal it was. Oh well... saved some money!

 

[bumperm]

A jig saw would work, but you must take your time. This is were a plasma cutter works the best or a torch with a #1 tip. Them you have to grind it smooth for a finish.
If I need something that's a one off I see my buddy with a water jet.

Should be mentioned that when cutting 1/4" aluminum plate with plasma, at least when I've done it, it leaves behind aluminum oxide, or something like it that's darn hard to clean off edges. Any tips on avoiding that?

To a previous post, I agree having an Oxy-Acetylene torch is a necessary item. I didn't list it in my go-to cutting tools as I seldom use it for cutting as the plasma is so much easier, quicker, does a better job, and is less expensive to use. In fact, I seldom use the torch for anything but heating, pre-heating, brazing and silver soldering, as TIG and MIG do a better or faster job. Haven't used stick welding in years as the 220V MIG does reasonably heavy stuff.

bumper

 

[Shield Arc]

Should be mentioned that when cutting 1/4" aluminum plate with plasma, at least when I've done it, it leaves behind aluminum oxide, or something like it that's darn hard to clean off edges. Any tips on avoiding that?

Make your cuts at least 1/16-inch big, then grind or sand to the dimension you want. If you Tig weld aluminum after plasma cutting this can happen.:thumbdown:

 

[dragoneggs]

Make your cuts at least 1/16-inch big, then grind or sand to the dimension you want. If you Tig weld aluminum after plasma cutting this can happen.:thumbdown:

Hey SA, what exactly am I looking at? Look like soap suds to me :confused3:

 

[k0ua]

Hey SA, what exactly am I looking at? Look like soap suds to me :confused3:

The air leak in the tank where the large bubble is. Since the TIG arc is high frequency AC when you weld aluminum, it cleans the oxide on part of the cycle. But I believe what he is saying is if the oxide layer on the Aluminum is too great it can prevent the arc from making a good weld. In this case on the aluminum tank it resulted in a leak when leak tested with air.

 

[dragoneggs]

aha... the soapy water pressure test. I was staring at the weld trying to understand.

 

[Big Barn]

aha... the soapy water pressure test. I was staring at the weld trying to understand.

Glad I wasn't the only one trying to overthink the obvious.

Terry