TYM T273 HST brake switch issues

[Samberg]

Thanks all,
I good some great advise from members of this website so I thought I'll pass on some myself.
This advice probably goes for the T233 and possibly other models as the brake switch is probably the same.
I have had some issues with the 'EG STOP, PTO' fuse blowing constantly on ignition and I finally traced it to the brake/brake light switch, under the brake pedal. This has been replaced once before under warranty so now I decided to open it up, considering it is probably blown and it is a sealed unit so not serviceable. I found the contacts pretty worn and the plastic between the contacts melted in places. What I did to get me going; solder wire to contacts in order to bridge the contacts normally on when brakes are applied and hey presto, working fine! Only issue with this is the brake lights are permanently on but my tractor is only used on our property so no road driving.
I didn't want to keep spending money every year or so on a new switch so this has solved it for me!
If anyone else out there needs advice on how to open; I tapped it with a hammer several times around the rim, where sealed part with wires joins the housing and it fell apart after 5-6 blows (housing didn't even break), removed the centre component (switch nipple protruding at top of housing) got some copper wire and soldered the opposite terminals, alternatively, if not soldering, tie the copper wire around the springy terminals and tighten with pliers! I then replaced the housing, without the centre component, insulated with some electricians tape and refitted.
The 7.5 amp fuse in question (TYM T273 HST) is the 3rd one down in the row of 3 only marked 'EG STOP, PTY'.
It is a bit overprotective for a brake light switch to disable your whole tractor but I guess it it due to safety reasons.
Kind Regards,
Sascha

 

[Gregster613]

Hi Samberg, Good tip and bit of advice - Thanks for sharing with us. I haven't had any problems with blown fuses - yet - but I'll have to keep an eye on that also! Greg

 

[unibody madness]

My brake switch broke last year... I ordered a replacement for major dollars and now year later my PTO only works if I hold the electric switch manually it will not stay engaged if I release it.

Has anyone come up with a schematic that will bypass this mess?,

 

[Samberg]

My brake switch broke last year... I ordered a replacement for major dollars and now year later my PTO only works if I hold the electric switch manually it will not stay engaged if I release it.

Has anyone come up with a schematic that will bypass this mess?,

Hi madness,
The brake switch is a weak point and I did an override on that, see my earlier posts..., they blow on a yearly basis, when I dismantled mine there was heavy wear on the plastic spacers, looked more or less melted! With the override you wont have to buy them any more, only issue is your brake lights are going to be on permanently! I don't mind this as I don't use it on roads.
As for the PTO switch; if what you are saying: only stays on while switch is depressed, this is definitely a faulty switch. Your ON/OFF function is busted within the switch. Find a replacement switch that will fit into the mounting or if you are not bothered about aesthetics, any switch will do, mounted on top! Easy to wire an ON/OFF switch and any novice or not so DIY person can do that so you'll be OK.
Don't buy original replacement parts as they are all generic anyway, without the mark-up of your TYM dealer.
Back to the brake switch, mine went first within the warranty period so replaced free but if you want full functionality of that, remove the switch, note the numbers on that and google. These are all generic parts. I personally could not be bothered to replace it every year or so and done override. I am no electrician or similar so just traced the wires and connected them together. If you don't have a replacement switch for the PTO handy and need it right away, just pull the switch out, pull off the wires and join the wires by twisting them, when you want to disengage, undo the connection. That's a TEMPORARY FIX, JUST KEEP THE EXPOSED WIRES AWAY FROM ANY GROUNDING/METAL PARTS AS THIS MAY BLOW A FUSE OR YOUR TYM WONT START AT ALL!
Let us know how you go!

 

[Samberg]

PS; What time is it over there and how much did you pay for the brake switch?
It's 9:50 AM here.
Sascha

 

[unibody madness]

Just got the your post, says its 6:53 p.m. to your 9:50 am. its now 6:38 a.m. on tues. 19th
I dont remember the cost,only that would not spend it again. Thanks.

 

[Redneck in training]

Only thing I don't understand how faulty switch could blow fuse. My guess is that there was pinched wire or wire with rubbed off insulation and you just moved it from contacting the chassis while fixing the switch. I would go back there with good light and check the wire harness for abrasion.
My TYM is almost 10 years old now and has close to 900 hours. It had only one repair. The electronic module died preventing the tractor from starting. 200 USD and about 45 min of work fixed that. It has one persistent issue though. The sight glass on the tranny seeps fluid and one time it just fell out during very cold winter day. I replaced it at least three times. When I change the hydraulic fluid next time I will pull it out clean the opening with a degreaser and use oil pan gasket stuff to seal it in. I got in a habit, when I do pre start check, to push it in.

 

[Samberg]

It has one persistent issue though. The sight glass on the tranny seeps fluid and one time it just fell out during very cold winter day. I replaced it at least three times. When I change the hydraulic fluid next time I will pull it out clean the opening with a degreaser and use oil pan gasket stuff to seal it in. I got in a habit, when I do pre start check, to push it in.

Hi Redneck, I had the same problem with the sight glass from new, leaking but did not pop out. I fixed it during the first hydraulic fluid change. Gave it a good clean with 96% rubbing alcohol (degreaser would work well) and glued it in. No problem since. I was worried in case it popped out and spilled it's contents on the concrete pad.
The switch causing fuse to blow may have been moisture inside causing a ground since the switch is metal to metal, when brake disengaged I think. When I disconnected the switch it wasn't blowing fuse but did so as soon as reconnected. I did trace all wiring from behind the console all the way to the end and didn't find any faults.
10 years/900 hours is impressive with very few issues. Mine is about 3 years old with near 400 hours and serviced as close to recommended intervals as convenient.

 

[Redneck in training]

Hi Redneck, I had the same problem with the sight glass from new, leaking but did not pop out. I fixed it during the first hydraulic fluid change. Gave it a good clean with 96% rubbing alcohol (degreaser would work well) and glued it in. No problem since. I was worried in case it popped out and spilled it's contents on the concrete pad.
The switch causing fuse to blow may have been moisture inside causing a ground since the switch is metal to metal, when brake disengaged I think. When I disconnected the switch it wasn't blowing fuse but did so as soon as reconnected. I did trace all wiring from behind the console all the way to the end and didn't find any faults.
10 years/900 hours is impressive with very few issues. Mine is about 3 years old with near 400 hours and serviced as close to recommended intervals as convenient.

Hi Samberg
Thanks for the explanation. What glue did you use on the sight glass?

 

[Samberg]

Hi Redneck,
It was a while ago but I'm sure the glue supplied by my TYM agent (it was still under warranty but I wanted to service myself to get used to it) was silicone based, heat & solvent resistant. Anything flexible will do as long as it does not react with the hydro oil! You can use rigid glues but I prefer a flexible sealant. I know a tube of the stuff will probably cost you 3-4 $ and most of it won't be used but, you will have piece of mind and not have to include checking that as part of your start-up routine. I just could not bear the thought of the whole thing spilling itself on my pad or anywhere else, there are no precaution warnings on the TYM for low hydro fluid except for the your PTO, FEL, etc., failing to engage or perform. It is well worth the few $ to get it done. Silicone based sealants are great for this and should last 20 or so years! I think it is a common fault with TYM assembly, not enough sealant used there..., simple fix but they do tend to cut corners on assembly, mainly the Korean made but Chinese assembled models.
As I mentioned; your 10 yo is an example of great parts/components but poor assembly. You are lucky you don't have issues with underrated transmission parts & such. I have definitely put mine to the test by doing all earthworks for watertank, large shed and housepad + weekly or monthly work like slashing & rotating soil with the 2 implements I chose. Initially I chose a slasher and a plough but soon changed the plough for a rotary hoe as the plough was too light and I could do a better job reversing, using my FEL.
My neighbour has a plough which is heavier & better than the 1 I got as part of the initial deal so can always borrow that. He has borrowed my 'dinky' 273 to level his 400 metre driveway, even though he has heavy machinery: large excavator, large semi truck, bobcat, heavy compactors and such. We are lucky the implements can be used from generic sources, which was one of my main points when buying our TYM. The Dingo hitch is universal and so are a few others now!
Sascha