Threepoint
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2014
- Messages
- 2,233
- Location
- No. VA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2150HST w/ LA350 loader, Kubota GF1800 HST, Kioti CK3510SE HST w/ KL4030 loader, Kioti NX4510HST/cab w/ KL6010 loader
I've found that even where the grade is fairly flat, using a 3pt box blade in reverse requires a great deal of finesse. The blade height must be feathered constantly to avoid plowing up more material than intended. The difficulty increases big time on a modest slope, especially if backing uphill. An hydraulic toplink helps a bit with this. After more than 20 years using box blades, I consider myself pretty good with them, but I still struggle when trying to smooth gravel or dirt in reverse. I avoid it whenever I can :irked:
That said, there's really nothing like a heavy box blade for all-around grading tasks. I love them. And short of a snowblower, there's nothing like a rear (scrape) blade for moving snow off the driveway or parking area. To clean stock pens, you definitely want a rear blade, not a box blade.
Ron45, you asked about weight. My view is that, with a box blade, you'll ideally want the heaviest your tractor can comfortably handle, period. Weight is more important than length for effective use of a box blade. Your tractor is 30 hp and probably over 4000 lbs with a loader and loaded tires. I'm thinking you should be able to get a sturdy 60" or maybe 72" light-to-medium duty BB that will still be fairly heavy and fully use your tractor's capability for under $1000, especially if you go used.
With a rear blade, if you're going to try to grade gravel or dirt with it (as distinguished from plowing snow), the heaviest rear blade your tractor can handle, the better. As with a box blade, when grading with a rear blade (again, rather than moving snow), weight will be more important than length. You just need the blade either to be long enough to clear your tire tracks, or have an offset capability to extend beyond one of the rear tire sidewalls. In fact, the longer the rear blade, the longer the lever arm and the greater the rotational force that will try to slide your rear end sideways when you angle the blade.
By contrast, if you are using the rear blade primarily to clear snow, weight is not quite as important because you won't be trying to cut into hard material as much. With your tractor, I think you'd be fine pushing snow with a lighter duty blade, e.g. one from Tractor Supply (County Line?), so long as it's no longer than 72" and you're careful with it.
To maintain a gravel driveway/road, it's much harder to do with a rear blade than a box blade, although I, like Indylan, have done it. With a rear blade, You need to angle it towards the center of the drive to sweep material into a windrow on the centerline, then square-up the blade and make a pass down the center to even everything out. You can do light ditching with a rear blade, but not so much with a box blade, IMO. Off-set capability is not so important in a rear blade unless (1) your blade is not a foot or more longer than your rear tire tracks (your tractor weight and hp being the primary limiting factors for blade length), or 2) you feel you need the extra offset to do aggressive ditching.
You also asked about the importance of degrees of rotation of a rear blade around its vertical axis. All the rear blades I've seen other than DIY blades have at least three angle positions on each side, so I wouldn't be worried about that.
Since you're looking to maximize benefit vs. cost for your particular needs, I guess my bottom line is to suggest you put your money into a sturdy, medium-duty box blade and use that for all your grading operations. I'd add a light duty 72" rear blade (no longer than that or you're likely to bend it quickly with your tractor) for under $500 for cleaning stock pens and moving snow.
That said, there's really nothing like a heavy box blade for all-around grading tasks. I love them. And short of a snowblower, there's nothing like a rear (scrape) blade for moving snow off the driveway or parking area. To clean stock pens, you definitely want a rear blade, not a box blade.
Ron45, you asked about weight. My view is that, with a box blade, you'll ideally want the heaviest your tractor can comfortably handle, period. Weight is more important than length for effective use of a box blade. Your tractor is 30 hp and probably over 4000 lbs with a loader and loaded tires. I'm thinking you should be able to get a sturdy 60" or maybe 72" light-to-medium duty BB that will still be fairly heavy and fully use your tractor's capability for under $1000, especially if you go used.
With a rear blade, if you're going to try to grade gravel or dirt with it (as distinguished from plowing snow), the heaviest rear blade your tractor can handle, the better. As with a box blade, when grading with a rear blade (again, rather than moving snow), weight will be more important than length. You just need the blade either to be long enough to clear your tire tracks, or have an offset capability to extend beyond one of the rear tire sidewalls. In fact, the longer the rear blade, the longer the lever arm and the greater the rotational force that will try to slide your rear end sideways when you angle the blade.
By contrast, if you are using the rear blade primarily to clear snow, weight is not quite as important because you won't be trying to cut into hard material as much. With your tractor, I think you'd be fine pushing snow with a lighter duty blade, e.g. one from Tractor Supply (County Line?), so long as it's no longer than 72" and you're careful with it.
To maintain a gravel driveway/road, it's much harder to do with a rear blade than a box blade, although I, like Indylan, have done it. With a rear blade, You need to angle it towards the center of the drive to sweep material into a windrow on the centerline, then square-up the blade and make a pass down the center to even everything out. You can do light ditching with a rear blade, but not so much with a box blade, IMO. Off-set capability is not so important in a rear blade unless (1) your blade is not a foot or more longer than your rear tire tracks (your tractor weight and hp being the primary limiting factors for blade length), or 2) you feel you need the extra offset to do aggressive ditching.
You also asked about the importance of degrees of rotation of a rear blade around its vertical axis. All the rear blades I've seen other than DIY blades have at least three angle positions on each side, so I wouldn't be worried about that.
Since you're looking to maximize benefit vs. cost for your particular needs, I guess my bottom line is to suggest you put your money into a sturdy, medium-duty box blade and use that for all your grading operations. I'd add a light duty 72" rear blade (no longer than that or you're likely to bend it quickly with your tractor) for under $500 for cleaning stock pens and moving snow.
