3-Point Hitch Box blade vs rear blade

[ron45]

I'm fairly sure that a box blade can do more things than a rear blade. But I don't know how to evaluate the box blade quality/price point over a cheaper rear blade. I would want a rear blade that can do more than grade suburban gravel driveways and clean stock pens. My soil can be hard when it's dry and rocky all the time. I think I would need a rear blade that will probably cost half of what a good box blade can cost. Please correct any wrong assumptions I make. I'm very new to all this stuff. Can a good box blade be had.... used is fine for under a thousand dollars?

On rear blades, the moldboard.... first time I saw this wordI thought it was not something made of steel. These are steel and not some composite material right?

The local county grader operator was talking about his moldboard the other day to someone else. His was for sure steel and about 12 feet wide.

If I got a rear blade what features are important for all around utility. Offset?.... I think that's when the blade can be moved left or right relative to the center of the 3 pt. hitch. How important is tilting the blade along its long axis? How many gradients of rotation of the blade about its own center vertical axis are sufficient?

What should I be asking that I'm unaware of? Thanks for your time.

Ron

 

[IndyIan]

Box blades are good for moving dirt and spreading it out, or leveling an area. Basically any job a dozer would do.
I use my rear blade mostly like a grader, to smooth and recrown my driveway, and for snow. I've done shallow ditches with it too but my 7' blade is only 350lbs so it never digs in hard enough to make my tractor work, so it takes lots of passes.

 

[s219]

I have both, and they have very different uses and capabilities. There are cheap and good versions of both. I am sensing you don't know what you want because you maybe don't have the uses/applications in mind yet. In my opinion, that is where the discussion needs to start. So what is it that you need to do?

I can tell you that a rear blade beefed up enough to be as stout as even a cheap box blade will cost big bucks. A rear blade is a more fragile design, so to make a strong rear blade takes quite a bit of structure. The good ones are priced commensurate with the workmanship and materials.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ron, to start with, if you are looking new and you want something that is going to be good, actually work and last for you, plan on spending some money. Not to say that you are wrong in your cost assumptions, but if you look at some good implements, a rear blade will be as much or more than a box blade of equal quality.

Not that you are looking at these, but just as an example a top of the line box blade will run $3500-$4000 where as the same quality rear blade will run $5000-$6000. This is only an example for 6' and larger implements.

I highly recommend that you take a look at Everything Attachments. They have what I consider the best bang for the buck implements. Box blade. Rear blade
Value rear blade.
Not the best, not the cheapest, just the best for the money spent.

 

[k0ua]

While you are over there at everything attachments, look at their videos, on how to use each type of implement.

 

[jeff9366]

Box blades are good for moving dirt and spreading it out, or leveling an area.

Basically any job a dozer would do.

Well --------- not quite any job a dozer would do.

 

[IndyIan]

Well --------- not quite any job a dozer would do.

In general though, I find it amazing what you can push going backwards with a box blade. This year was the first time I've had to move my frozen snow banks back and it did a great job compared to the loader. Or shearing off old ground hog mounds.

 

[lakngulf]

In general though, I find it amazing what you can push going backwards with a box blade. This year was the first time I've had to move my frozen snow banks back and it did a great job compared to the loader. Or shearing off old ground hog mounds.

I call mine a "BoxBladozier". It can move some dirt, and only a 30hp tractor. Boxblade has the rippers to loosen soil, almost like a chisel plow or subsoiler. Careful though, I have bent some of the 3pt attachments trying to do too much with the blade pushing backwards. But easily replaceable parts.

 

[JonKioti]

I bought a new, solid box blade for my CK20S for $1000 CDN including tax. It includes the hooks to dig and loosen soil.

We have fairly rocky soil, and I have no problem pulling it with my tractor. I can easily fill the box and drag it along, leaving a perfectly flat path behind me.

I have since seen what appears to be a similar model at Princess Auto here in Canada for $600 plus tax.

Not sure what size tractor you have, but this one works for me and my tractor. There doesn't look to be anything on it I'm likely to break, i.e. it's pretty solidly built.

Jon

 

[lakngulf]

There doesn't look to be anything on it I'm likely to break, i.e. it's pretty solidly built.

Jon

Just watch the nuts and bolts before and after each use. The activity will jar them loose. I have replaced a few nuts on mine.

 

[Threepoint]

I've found that even where the grade is fairly flat, using a 3pt box blade in reverse requires a great deal of finesse. The blade height must be feathered constantly to avoid plowing up more material than intended. The difficulty increases big time on a modest slope, especially if backing uphill. An hydraulic toplink helps a bit with this. After more than 20 years using box blades, I consider myself pretty good with them, but I still struggle when trying to smooth gravel or dirt in reverse. I avoid it whenever I can :irked:

That said, there's really nothing like a heavy box blade for all-around grading tasks. I love them. And short of a snowblower, there's nothing like a rear (scrape) blade for moving snow off the driveway or parking area. To clean stock pens, you definitely want a rear blade, not a box blade.

Ron45, you asked about weight. My view is that, with a box blade, you'll ideally want the heaviest your tractor can comfortably handle, period. Weight is more important than length for effective use of a box blade. Your tractor is 30 hp and probably over 4000 lbs with a loader and loaded tires. I'm thinking you should be able to get a sturdy 60" or maybe 72" light-to-medium duty BB that will still be fairly heavy and fully use your tractor's capability for under $1000, especially if you go used.

With a rear blade, if you're going to try to grade gravel or dirt with it (as distinguished from plowing snow), the heaviest rear blade your tractor can handle, the better. As with a box blade, when grading with a rear blade (again, rather than moving snow), weight will be more important than length. You just need the blade either to be long enough to clear your tire tracks, or have an offset capability to extend beyond one of the rear tire sidewalls. In fact, the longer the rear blade, the longer the lever arm and the greater the rotational force that will try to slide your rear end sideways when you angle the blade.

By contrast, if you are using the rear blade primarily to clear snow, weight is not quite as important because you won't be trying to cut into hard material as much. With your tractor, I think you'd be fine pushing snow with a lighter duty blade, e.g. one from Tractor Supply (County Line?), so long as it's no longer than 72" and you're careful with it.

To maintain a gravel driveway/road, it's much harder to do with a rear blade than a box blade, although I, like Indylan, have done it. With a rear blade, You need to angle it towards the center of the drive to sweep material into a windrow on the centerline, then square-up the blade and make a pass down the center to even everything out. You can do light ditching with a rear blade, but not so much with a box blade, IMO. Off-set capability is not so important in a rear blade unless (1) your blade is not a foot or more longer than your rear tire tracks (your tractor weight and hp being the primary limiting factors for blade length), or 2) you feel you need the extra offset to do aggressive ditching.

You also asked about the importance of degrees of rotation of a rear blade around its vertical axis. All the rear blades I've seen other than DIY blades have at least three angle positions on each side, so I wouldn't be worried about that.

Since you're looking to maximize benefit vs. cost for your particular needs, I guess my bottom line is to suggest you put your money into a sturdy, medium-duty box blade and use that for all your grading operations. I'd add a light duty 72" rear blade (no longer than that or you're likely to bend it quickly with your tractor) for under $500 for cleaning stock pens and moving snow.

 

[HereticWild]

Okay, tractor user for only 2 years here, for us small operations (I only have 2.5 acres) and I have done just about everything you guys mentioned in this thread with just my front bucket. My dealer showed me how to use it to grade my driveway and I use it to push snow and pile it. I have move a dump truck load of sand from one spot to another and graded the remains. I dug a small pond for fish. I clean out our stable. Etc... Sure, maybe the grading could have been done faster with a box blade I guess, but I don't see the value of it for what I have. Thanks!

 

[JonKioti]

Just watch the nuts and bolts before and after each use. The activity will jar them loose. I have replaced a few nuts on mine.

Good to know, thanks. I'll give it the once over before I stow it next time.

Jon

 

[JonKioti]

., but I don't see the value of it for what I have. Thanks!

I have only respect for someone who can take the time to make best use of the equipment they have as you have done.

I honestly felt the $1000 I spent on my box blade was about $700 more than I could justify for such an attachment and the use I would put to it. Having used it a few times now, I no longer feel that way. While only occasionally used, it is by far the best equipment for the job.

Cheers,

Jon

 

[yelbike]

Okay, tractor user for only 2 years here, for us small operations (I only have 2.5 acres) and I have done just about everything you guys mentioned in this thread with just my front bucket. My dealer showed me how to use it to grade my driveway and I use it to push snow and pile it. I have move a dump truck load of sand from one spot to another and graded the remains. I dug a small pond for fish. I clean out our stable. Etc... Sure, maybe the grading could have been done faster with a box blade I guess, but I don't see the value of it for what I have. Thanks!

Yes I probably under use my loader since I have box blades, but it so much faster and easier.

 

[Threepoint]

Okay, tractor user for only 2 years here, for us small operations (I only have 2.5 acres) and I have done just about everything you guys mentioned in this thread with just my front bucket. My dealer showed me how to use it to grade my driveway and I use it to push snow and pile it. I have move a dump truck load of sand from one spot to another and graded the remains. I dug a small pond for fish. I clean out our stable. Etc... Sure, maybe the grading could have been done faster with a box blade I guess, but I don't see the value of it for what I have. Thanks!

Sounds like you have all you need, and a skilled operator can do a lot with just the bucket. But I'd never discourage anyone from the joy of buying a new tool. 2.5 acres certainly could justify more equipment if you wanted it. :thumbsup:

Years ago I lived for a few months as a student on the 3rd floor of an apt building overlooking a small, single-family home. It was on a very small lot, with a tiny pool in the back about 30 feet from the house. The young owner had a small JD lawn tractor, with several implements he could tow behind. On weekends, he'd hook up a tiny trailer, put in a bucket of chlorine tabs or a couple of pavers and drive it to his pool. First time I saw it I laughed. I came to realize how enjoyable it was for him after a week of punching the clock at work. Decided that someday I'd have a place with room for a tractor and some implements. :laughing:

 

[LD1]

I wouldnt say a box blade can do more than a rear blade. What they can do is pretty equal, but different.

A rear blade can angle, and sometimes offset. This is nice for rolling snow, crowning driveways, cutting out swales or ditch-ways, or working to feather out slopes.

A box blade can transport material and fill low spots better. It also has rippers to loosen the soil.

If playing in the dirt, a good heavy rear blade is a must. At least 100 lbs per ft. So those 350# 6' blades dont do well.

As mentioned, if doing snow, weight isnt as important. I have hard dry ground. And have no issues cutting into the dirt with a 700# 7' blade. It will move alot of material quickly.

And a mold board is steel. Not some molded plastic. Rather molded STEEL.

 

[HereticWild]

Sounds like you have all you need, and a skilled operator can do a lot with just the bucket. But I'd never discourage anyone from the joy of buying a new tool. 2.5 acres certainly could justify more equipment if you wanted it. :thumbsup:

Years ago I lived for a few months as a student on the 3rd floor of an apt building overlooking a small, single-family home. It was on a very small lot, with a tiny pool in the back about 30 feet from the house. The young owner had a small JD lawn tractor, with several implements he could tow behind. On weekends, he'd hook up a tiny trailer, put in a bucket of chlorine tabs or a couple of pavers and drive it to his pool. First time I saw it I laughed. I came to realize how enjoyable it was for him after a week of punching the clock at work. Decided that someday I'd have a place with room for a tractor and some implements. :laughing:

I did buy a couple of used implements, picked up a deep tiller so I can deep till our 30 x 50 foot garden as well as a Harrow (and rack? to hold it on my 3 pt hitch so I can lift it up when so I don't drag it all the time).

 

[ron45]

Sorry to be so long in getting back to everyone. It took a while to get thru all the information and I am grateful for all the help. Because of the nature of our road and the length of it I will probably choose a rear blade that is heavy if I can find one I can go and get within 150 miles or so. I have lots of slanted berms across my road. I'm unsure if bar ditch is the correct term, but I heard some one call them that. If anyone knows I like to have the proper name for these. I want to be able to bring material in from the edges of the road and distribute a ways back on to the road bed. Also I want to be able to make fairly narrow ditches to carry water out into the medow my road passes along the edge of. Something I can angle off the horizontal like a motor grader blade does will do nicely. I'm going to go thru all this again to make sure I didn't miss anyone. The person who said I need to know what I want to accomplish put me on the correct path to figure out my best choice. `Cant thank you all enough for you time and wisdom.

Ron

 

[Threepoint]

Ron, since you're leaning toward a rear blade for your all-round grading needs, it may be worth considering one that can take optional accessories, like removable end plates, skid shoes, maybe even a tail wheel. End plates allow it to contain the material a little better as you move it around. Here's a very sturdy one from Woods that your tractor can probably handle in a 72" length (530 lbs). Product Details

I haven't used end plates on a rear blade myself, since I also have box blades, but they seem like a good way to extend capability. I've wondered if they can make the rear blade work something like a box blade by churning the material over and over so that it spreads out evenly behind. Maybe some other members who have them can jump in to answer that. Good luck with your search.