Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX

[sixdogs]

JT--I'm going on memory on this but when I researched it a number of years back here's what I recall. Back then, synthetics were less available, not widely used and pricey. Dino oil was far cheaper and the idea was to blend the two and come up with a more acceptable price. The public didn't seem to buy the syn blend in a big enough way at the same time dino rose in price and syns started to come down in price so the public preferred full synthetic.

In addition to this, I recall a semantics discussion about what constituted "full" synthetic. It was an arguable line and I recall John Deere "full" synthetic had to be labeled "synthetic blend" because of it. In fact, I still have a full synthetic container labeled partially synthetic. Back when this was a hot button issue and I wanted full syn Deere oil I even called JD for clarification.

All the above is from memory of 10 or so years ago so don't bet the farm on 100% total recall. In the time since I have blocked out anything partially syn and only buy full syn.

 

[number two]

JT-What I was really trying to say was that the lowest/price/quality oil in many lineups is called a synthetic blend.
They don't even have a conventional offering!Hence with all the chemistry changes,conventional oil pretty much is a synthetic blend.
Hope that makes sense!

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT-What I was really trying to say was that the lowest/price/quality oil in many lineups is called a synthetic blend. LOW QUALITY OIL IS REFERRED TO AS SYNTHETIC BLEND, RIGHT, ISN'T THAT WHAT THIS IS SAYING?
They don't even have a conventional offering!Hence with all the chemistry changes,conventional oil pretty much is a synthetic blend. BASICALLY ALL OIL OTHER THAN 100% SYNTHETIC IS LOW QUALITY? IS THAT WHAT YOUR SAYING
Hope that makes sense!

I thought oil had been improved over the years and has resulted in oil changes being extended from 3000 to "up to" 7500 miles using conventional oils and engines going 200,000 to 300,000 mile vs the 60,000 miles in the 50s and 60s being high miles cars/trucks. I also have believed that most vehicles use standard oil and not synthetic and that has/is my experience. I buy oil from my Kubota dealer and it is not synthetic labeled oil and have always felt secure using it. Should I start worrying now because it isn't 100% synthetic?:shocked:

 

[bp fick]

John, no worries.

Even "conventional" oils are now so sophisticated, both in terms of the quality of the base oils used and the superior additive package blended in. The term synthetic is debatable and somewhat political anyhow. Some companies produce and sell "true" synthetics, made from true synthetic base oils and they are spendy. Some Mobil1 products are true synthetics, as are Amsoil products of course. Others, like Ford, Honda and Kia, just to name two auto companies, now use 5w-20 which is labeled "semi-synthetic" which simply means it has some synthetic additives or "treatments" to the base oils to improve them for quick flow, superior lubrication and longer life. Valvoline, Shell, Chevron, Warren Oil, just about all the oil companies produce and sell these products.

They have been forced to make these super lite weight oils better and tougher. These lite weight oils improve MPG's by a very slight amount but in the fuel mileage race, even tiny advancements are welcomed. Additionally, modern engines have complex dual overhead cams and tight oil passages and tolerances through which old fashioned, "thicker" oils might not perform well.

My Fords, Hondas and even my wife's little Kia all recommend these super lite weight, semi-synthetic oils. So, that's what goes in them. Since we've put 100's of 1000's of miles on these oils over the past decade or so? I have zero complaints and no worries.

I've also been using synthetic Rotella or Delo oil (whatever WalMart has at a price) in my Kubotas for the past 5 years. Spotless performance, even on the hottest days and on minus 30 start ups to push snow in winter. Do I spend 3 times the money for "true" synthetics from Amsoil? No I do not, although others do and love it and I'm happy for them.

 

[Citydude]

I have a 2003 Ford Super duty 7.3 Diesel. I used a synthetic oil in the engine. Over time, it seemed like the old girl was getting louder. Not exhaust sounds but top end engine sounds like lifters and what ever else. I changed the oil a few months ago and on a whim, went back to the ford Motorcraft blended engine oil that was originally in it from the full synthetic oil.
after 2000 miles, the engine "rattle" is noticeably quieter. I have no clue on why, just thought I would pass this on.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have a 2003 Ford Super duty 7.3 Diesel. I used a synthetic oil in the engine. Over time, it seemed like the old girl was getting louder. Not exhaust sounds but top end engine sounds like lifters and what ever else. I changed the oil a few months ago and on a whim, went back to the ford Motorcraft blended engine oil that was originally in it from the full synthetic oil.
after 2000 miles, the engine "rattle" is noticeably quieter. I have no clue on why, just thought I would pass this on.

Back in the "old days" 50s and 60s some people were adding a product to their engines called/labeled Motor Honey. Endorsed (paid to support) by race car drivers and ads in Road and Track and Car and Driver magazines. It was a really thick, thick oil and it would quieten down some of the engine noise, especially if you put enough cans in the engine. I suspect that is why your engine runs a bit quieter with regular oil vs synthetics, thicker which to me, in my mind, possibly and even probably better for lubrication by sticking better to the metal parts.:2cents:

 

[number two]

Hello JT-Didn't this discussion start about your dealer offering oil change service with synthetic blend oil?
I had no intention of labeling a synthetic blend an inferior motor oil.
Please think of it as Good.Better,Best with the synthetic blend,or conventional for that matter,being refered to as Good.
They meet the specs for their application,5W20,5W30,SN API Grade,etc.

Some information about how the oil change business works:
Dealers and oil change places receive bulk deliveries of motor oil,pumped into 275 gallon tanks or 300 gallon totes.
The oil they recieve is usually dictated by the current price.
The independents in these parts are currently getting Shell for about $6.75 per gallon.
The oil filters for popular vehicles cost them $1.38-$1.75 each.
Once again,they meet the spec.
Most vehicles that recieve proper service will never have a problem with "spec" oil or "spec"oil filters.

 

[bp fick]

Oil forums beat these subjects to absolute death, so if JT doesn't mind, I'd sure like to steer this BX maintenance thread back to a BX maintenance subject. Doing a radiator flush and fill on a front mounted radiator is a piece of cake, but the BX? Yeow!!! Maybe I should start a new thread, I don't know.

Last fall, I wanted to flush and fill my radiator on my BX. I found that I could not easily reach the bottom hose to disconnect it. There was no drain plug that I could reach either. The reverse design of the BX puts the radiator in the rear and it's jammed up in there.

I'm wide open to some suggestions, tips and tricks about dumping radiator fluid on a Kubota BX. Photos are great, but anything that would help a guy drop the radiator coolant and re-fill for winter would be very much appreciated.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Oil forums beat these subjects to absolute death, so if JT doesn't mind, I'd sure like to steer this BX maintenance thread back to a BX maintenance subject. Doing a radiator flush and fill on a front mounted radiator is a piece of cake, but the BX? Yeow!!! Maybe I should start a new thread, I don't know.

Last fall, I wanted to flush and fill my radiator on my BX. I found that I could not easily reach the bottom hose to disconnect it. There was no drain plug that I could reach either. The reverse design of the BX puts the radiator in the rear and it's jammed up in there.

I'm wide open to some suggestions, tips and tricks about dumping radiator fluid on a Kubota BX. Photos are great, but anything that would help a guy drop the radiator coolant and re-fill for winter would be very much appreciated.

I say lets go BX radiator flush experienced methods direction.:thumbsup:

 

[thirdroc17]

I'm set to be draining the coolant from my BX-2670 sometime in the next month. After looking and pondering, I have no idea how I'm going to get in there and drain it. Can't really get to the bottom hose, and the drain is behind that!! Whoever designs these things obviously never works on them......