Loader Ag tires, LS p7010, and front end loader

[poods77]

Hello to all. A few questions. I plan to buy a LS 7010 in the upcoming weeks. I will use the front end loader for a lot of heavy work (between 3000-3500lbs). I have been told this can be problematic for Ag tires. Have others had problems with this.

2 more questions:
Have other filled tires with rimguard (back tires or both) and are they happy with this.
I will use the tractor for plowing snow in the winter. We have a steep driveway that ices over quickly. Are Ag tires good in snow and ice? Would industrial be better for this and have others used industrial tires on the P7010? What was the price difference quoted from your dealer?

Sorry for all the questions, just some questions I have before making the final deal. Thanks for any help.

 

[charles todd]

I have a P7010C coming Wednesday (I hope)! It has R1 (Ag tires). I do not think R4 (Industrial) is an option on the P series. As for loader loads being hard on the front tires... I would think not. The more plys the tires are, the more weight they can carry. Since the loader has a 3500 lb rating, I would think LS rated the tires appropriately. I did not look at the tires, but I'd assume they are at least 8 ply.

Rimguard, WW fluid, ect will help traction. For a P7010C, I'd only fill rears. 3500 lb is a lot of weight to move around and 4wd use is suggested. We just use water in Louisiana.

Traction is ice/snow... No idea, never used a tractor in those conditions.

Good luck!

CT

 

[Wolfy]

R-1s are great in the snow. They do not grip ice, but no tire really does. The key is chains or studs. As far as a loader tractor, the R-4s will perform way better. I have a Ford loader with R-1s, and even at above max PSI the front tires deflect scarily, and the rears dig holes. My Kubota loader with R-4s does neither. The R-4s were about $1,000 more than the R-1s when I bought it new in 2002.

 

[coobie]

Hello to all. A few questions. I plan to buy a LS 7010 in the upcoming weeks. I will use the front end loader for a lot of heavy work (between 3000-3500lbs). I have been told this can be problematic for Ag tires. Have others had problems with this.

2 more questions:
Have other filled tires with rimguard (back tires or both) and are they happy with this.
I will use the tractor for plowing snow in the winter. We have a steep driveway that ices over quickly. Are Ag tires good in snow and ice? Would industrial be better for this and have others used industrial tires on the P7010? What was the price difference quoted from your dealer?

Sorry for all the questions, just some questions I have before making the final deal. Thanks for any help.

I have had both R1,s (ags) and R4,s on my last two tractors.My preference is the R1,s because I live in a climate where there is a lot of snow in winter and mud in the spring.With that being said if you are doing more loader work I would go with the R,4s as they have a heavier side wall verses the R1,s ags.The price difference between the R1,s verses the R4,s were $500 bucks when I bought my current tractor back in 2013.If it were me I would also load your rear tires with rimguard.Rear weight is your friend when doing front end loader work.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Go for the AGs. When you do heavy loader work overpressure the tires 5 or 10psi to keep them from squatting too much. ... Mine are rated 30psi for seating the bead. I figure with a seated bead the tire can safely take a good bit more. 30 is normally enuf on my 7520 for heavy use but Iv gone as hi as 40 in use. Once when filling with water I accidently got 70psi in one. I bled that off quick.
larry

 

[charles todd]

Go for the AGs. When you do heavy loader work overpressure the tires 5 or 10psi to keep them from squatting too much. ... Mine are rated 30psi for seating the bead. I figure with a seated bead the tire can safely take a good bit more. 30 is normally enuf on my 7520 for heavy use but Iv gone as hi as 40 in use. Once when filling with water I accidently got 70psi in one. I bled that off quick.
larry

+1

R1's may "flex" more, but can and will take the weight. You are MUCH LESS LIKELY to get stuck doing loader work with R1's! My first loader tractor could pick up a little more than 2000 lbs with pallet forks. I had tri-rib 7.00-16's... Those were squirrely! Then I bought tri-rib retreads. They used 9.50-14, 14 ply airplane landing tire carcases, 11,100 lb capacity, per tire, at 180 mph! Never had a problem after that.

CT

 

[Deerherd]

I have the P series that I run a snow plow with without chains or loading the tires. Done a great job so far but not sure how my steep compares to the OP. I have about 300' of pavement by the house and 1/4 mile gravel drive to the road.

I also do a lot of tillage and log handling and my proprty is very wet. I have plenty of weight and with all wheels churning I can dig fast enough already. The one time I would like more weight is handling logs after dragging them out. Hopefully I can pick up a logging winch to solve that problem!

I would get the front and rear tires widened before delivery, especially since you said you lived in a steep area. On mine it put the tire centers out further than the fenders but results in a very planted feel. I would get them done before you get the Rimguard, handling loaded tires and wheels, especially that size are a real load. Here is a photo of the plow setup and another where you can see the width of the tractor. Have fun!

 

[poods77]

What do you mean by getting the tires widened? Is it a different wider ag variety? If so do you have the size? Thanks for all of the replies. They have really helped.

 

[charles todd]

The rims can be mounted on the hubs in different configurations to adjust the wheel spacing. I believe the are 4 possible combinations.

CT

 

[Deerherd]

Tractors are usually shipped with their tires in the narrowest configuration. Some dealers don't necessarily change them unless the customer requests it. They may want them in the narrow setting for certain crops, entry into stalls etc.

I found a photo of my tractor where you can see how you can change the width by flipping the wheel, changing the bolt locations etc. Same for front or rear. (Especially if can enlarge it) The difference between the min & max settings on mine is 10".

My only suggestion is you have the dealer do the change if you want it, especially if you get the tires loaded. Have fun!

Oh, and one more thing. If you decide to take off the FEL, do it in a flat hard spot. Real flat and real hard. Just sayin'....