Yanmar 1500 brakes
- Thread starter jhnorri
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California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
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- 14,982
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
If it's the same as YM240/YM2000, and I expect it is - a stuck pedal usually means rust where the lever's shaft goes into the brake housing. There's an o-ring there so penetrating oil won't help.
The remedy on YM240 was to remove the brake housing cover plate, hammer that shaft out of it, clean, and re-assemble. With just the tiniest amount of grease applied/wiped off the shaft so it doesn't stick again.
I was able to do this without removing the wheel. I loosened the fender and rotated it back to get some space. This was safer than taking the wheel off for more work space. But on your smaller tractor you might have to block up the tractor securely and remove the wheel, to have enough room to work in there. My total project was an hour or so; but add time to your estimate if you need to block it up.
Take a look at this brake parts diagram from Hoye's website for an idea of what's in there. I hope yours is YM1500-red! I see in Hoye's diagram of the transmission case that on YM1500-green, far more parts need to be removed to get to the brakes and this project might be over the head of a backyard mechanic.
While you have the brakes apart you can swap front/back shoes, and turn the adjuster cam at the dumb ends of the shoes, to get years more service from the brakes.
The remedy on YM240 was to remove the brake housing cover plate, hammer that shaft out of it, clean, and re-assemble. With just the tiniest amount of grease applied/wiped off the shaft so it doesn't stick again.
I was able to do this without removing the wheel. I loosened the fender and rotated it back to get some space. This was safer than taking the wheel off for more work space. But on your smaller tractor you might have to block up the tractor securely and remove the wheel, to have enough room to work in there. My total project was an hour or so; but add time to your estimate if you need to block it up.
Take a look at this brake parts diagram from Hoye's website for an idea of what's in there. I hope yours is YM1500-red! I see in Hoye's diagram of the transmission case that on YM1500-green, far more parts need to be removed to get to the brakes and this project might be over the head of a backyard mechanic.
While you have the brakes apart you can swap front/back shoes, and turn the adjuster cam at the dumb ends of the shoes, to get years more service from the brakes.
clemsonfor
Super Member
i Developed a sticking brake in the last year. I am going to bring my tractor back to the house to work on it this winter. I will most likely post pictures and a breif write up. But it sounds just as Hoye describes on thier site and your problem California. I have to pull the petal back up after i press it in. It will only stick down a bit but i think the brake is still just barely dragging so i pull it up by had when pressed.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,982
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
When I bought my long-neglected YM240, the left brake pedal stuck so bad it took a hard pull with both hands to get it back a little. Seller told me 'drop the front bucket it you need to stop fast'. Ya sure. I cleaned the brake enclosures on both sides. Neither side was worn much.
That was part of my 2003 minor 'renovation' right after I bought it, and no problems since.
That was part of my 2003 minor 'renovation' right after I bought it, and no problems since.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Mine worked and returned fine for years after I bought it. Been working like 3 years no issue. Then this spring I noticed this. It rarely sits out in the rain. Only a few times...usually is in a shed.
jb92563
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2014
- Messages
- 68
- Location
- Riverside, CA
- Tractor
- Yanmar 240, 4' Box Blade, FEL, Rice & Turf tires
I have a related problem that your explanation has given insight on how to fix it.
Once I figured out how to uncouple the 2 brake pedals (flip the bar on the backside of the pedals the other way) so I can brake independently to help steer, I found out that the pedals still move together as if still joined.
The pedals must be seized on to the shaft together by corrosion.
I'll get after that soon with some PB penetrating oil to loosen them up and then give them a good lube once freed.
Is part #18 a grease nipple?
Once I figured out how to uncouple the 2 brake pedals (flip the bar on the backside of the pedals the other way) so I can brake independently to help steer, I found out that the pedals still move together as if still joined.
The pedals must be seized on to the shaft together by corrosion.
I'll get after that soon with some PB penetrating oil to loosen them up and then give them a good lube once freed.
Is part #18 a grease nipple?
reb
Platinum Member
I think so. Those on mine are some weird thread that I have not been able to find.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,982
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
I gave up trying to match those, and just forced in ordinary fittings where zerks were missing or clogged. Don't remember if it was Metric or SAE that were close enough to use.
I've never seen a post on here identifying the correct grease fittings on early Yanmars - before about 1980. I suspect they are some obsolete British thread, maybe Whitworth.
Yanmar Tractor Parts Grease fitting, 6mm x 1, straight Even though the parts drawing doesn't show it I believe there are fittings on both pedals.
clemsonfor
Super Member
yes there is a fitting on each side if i remember right. I grease them with a shot or two each time i do all the other fittings.
