PILOON
Super Star Member
No matter what brand pump they all seem to use Franklin motors. They come as 2 wire or 3 wire. The 3 wire is older technology in that they have the start capacitor in the control box while the 2 wire in down in the pump.
Then comes the HP, 1/3, 1/2 or 3/4.
Red jacket is good pump so is Groundfoss.
Depth is a critical item as is length and pipe size.
The same motor can be connected to different pump heads with the number of stages determining the flow capacity.
The manufactures have charts that will suggest the flows that each pump will provide.
My 2 cents is Red Jacket, 1 inch high pressure poly B pipe and bladder type tank in 220 AC configuration and probably 1/2 HP.
I'd only use a fiberglass tank and not a steel one as steel rusts (simply from condensation) which in turn abrades that bladder 'til it ruptures.
Use the mfg's charts to determine the correct model based on debth and desired GPM required.
To get very technical you'd also want to enter every elbow, lift and length into the calculations as friction also comes into play as well as any rise from well to house.
Use only brass fittings (plastic OK) but no steel as with time any steel (even galvanized) will rust to the point of choking the flow down to none.
For the minor % brass is the way to go. Also double 2 jubilee clamps on every fitting as the clamps do corrode with time as the screws are susceptible to corrosion depending on the acidity of the water.
(clamps are Stainless but screws are generally not as the screw needs to be high tensile and not SS)
That's my 2 cents with many an installations and maintainance under my belt.
Then comes the HP, 1/3, 1/2 or 3/4.
Red jacket is good pump so is Groundfoss.
Depth is a critical item as is length and pipe size.
The same motor can be connected to different pump heads with the number of stages determining the flow capacity.
The manufactures have charts that will suggest the flows that each pump will provide.
My 2 cents is Red Jacket, 1 inch high pressure poly B pipe and bladder type tank in 220 AC configuration and probably 1/2 HP.
I'd only use a fiberglass tank and not a steel one as steel rusts (simply from condensation) which in turn abrades that bladder 'til it ruptures.
Use the mfg's charts to determine the correct model based on debth and desired GPM required.
To get very technical you'd also want to enter every elbow, lift and length into the calculations as friction also comes into play as well as any rise from well to house.
Use only brass fittings (plastic OK) but no steel as with time any steel (even galvanized) will rust to the point of choking the flow down to none.
For the minor % brass is the way to go. Also double 2 jubilee clamps on every fitting as the clamps do corrode with time as the screws are susceptible to corrosion depending on the acidity of the water.
(clamps are Stainless but screws are generally not as the screw needs to be high tensile and not SS)
That's my 2 cents with many an installations and maintainance under my belt.
