Where do you get the good looking switches? I'm thinking of installing lights also, but haven't found a good switch yet.
That, and there was zero light on the back to see when backing up.
Exactly! I had the same issue when I drove my brand new B3350 before I installed rear LED work lights, in reverse, like heading into a black hole. It came with stock 35 watt halogen work lights on the front (optional for the rear), but I knew going in those were going to tossing those halogens anyway, replacing with LEDs - - (a shame the mfg's aren't more responsive to there customers on this sort of thing, they know darn well LED's are far better. Sure, they cost a little more, but for an extra $100, they could have offered LEDs front and back). I did order Kubota's panel lit panel switch to match the front work light switch. Again, to Kubota's credit, they did have the knockout for the switch and all wiring was pre-installed (plug at switch end hidden - taped up high to the wiring harness behind the panel :c).
Speaking of things they "should have done", I'm in the process of adding a turbocharger cool-down circuit. This allows you to turn off the key and jump down without worrying about coking the turbo shaft bearings 'cause you were too rushed (or forgot) to sit there at idle and wait. The circuit keeps the engine running at idle for a predetermined cooling period, typically a minute or two, before doing an auto shutoff.
That kind of thing really bugs me. Why bother pre-wireing and having a panel knockout if you don't offer the extra lights? Forget halogen vs LED, at least put something there! It's not like these are bumper cars that only go forward and you eventually smash your way through! (Well, maybe the way some people drive they are! HA HA) If they take the time to wire headlights, tail markers and turn signals, why aren't there at least minimal white lights on the rear? Even the combo tail/stop/signal/license plate lights off a trailer the a small window in the bottom of the lens for white light to come through would be better than nothing.
My shed has no lights, so even during the day it can be hard to see hooking up my tiller.
I agree, why nickle and dime the customer when you're selling a higher end (north of $25K) CUT. However, as I noted in previous post, the rear work lights are offered as an option. The point I was trying to make is that they did do the hard part (wiring) included. IMO, opting for the factory rear lights was not the way to go, at least not if you want nice LED lighting. But to buy just their switch and add your own LEDs, you also have to fabricate steel brackets to mount whatever lights you choose - - something that those without access to metal working tools will not want to undertake.
I got this wire harness with relay, fuse, and switch. Just needed to add some wire to get it up to the top of the ROPS.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D1CQVIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Guys on a truck forum I'm on seem to like LED Switches - On/Off 12V LED Switch for switches.
24Inch 120W Led Light Bar Flood Spot Combo Work Lights 4WD UTE Offroad Car Boat
Ordered two, should be here next week ---- anxious!!!!!!!!!
Jw 5875