Changing spark plugs in 2005 Tundra V8...advice needed

[Danno1]

.



I changed the plugs on my E150 300-6 at ~95K. It was running fine but I just couldn't stand having plugs that old. The electrodes were worn badly but again, running fine. ???

I've found over the years that never seize dries out with time. So I've been using moly wheel bearing grease for many years now. Plugs, brakes, every bolt I R/R. Even on hot components it's still there and wet at the next disassembly.

When I was younger I used to put a drop of oil from the dipstick on the new plug threads. But that was back in the days of annual tune-ups. Worked for that interval.

I won't put any bolt back dry nowadays. Well, head bolts, but that's it.



.

 

[BobRip]

Thanks. It's something I can't seem to find.

I found the torque for the six cylinder ( 15 ft-lbf) but not on the V8. The table is there, but no line for the V8 spark plug. Sorry. I think I used the 15.

 

[Coyote machine]

Wow, to anti-seize or not, what torque to use?! You guys are way over thinking it. Anti-seize won't hurt to coat the threads on a plug. Torque them till you feel the crush washer crush, then another 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn.
You're not a Nascar pit crew team, so getting the plugs snug but not overtight is the objective. Unless you are torquing in a straight line to the plug nut your wrench readings will be inaccurate. So you may want to just hand tighten each plug by hand until it's snug then go the extra 1/4-1/2 turn as mentioned.
They make tools to hold the plug tip, that allow one to get the plug in the hole and turn it, and afterward put the plug wrench and extension, if needed, on to reach the plug nut to finish the job. Copper anti-seize is unlikely to go dry, and even if it did, like graphite it would keep the threads from seizing in the head, as it is designed to do.

 

[MacLawn]

Not overthinking it coyote. I learned that the hard way! Ye really have to go by the book with these new vehicles. By newer, I mean even my "02 F150. My F150 is not supposed to have anti seize on the plugs. It's not the 2-3 piece plugs the '03 and up to about '08 or so have, but still a nightmare to change! I think the Tundra will be easier. I'd surely go by the book though.

 

[Tollster]

Just a few tips I learned over the years..
Make sure they are properly gapped,
DO NOT Pry on the center electrode to gap them!
DO NOT bang on the 'Ground' electrode to close up the gap!
Modern 'Resistor' plugs are VERY SENSITIVE!
Use a pair of NEEDLE NOSE pliers to bend the 'Ground' electrode instead of PRYING on the center electrode! That's the WORST thing you can do to a spark plug (Prying on the center electrode or 'Tapping' the gap closed!)

They have a 'Carbon Pile' resistor inside the insulator, and if you break that very fragile carbon, 1/6 of your horsepower and torque goes right out the window.
IF YOU DROP A PLUG ON THE GROUND, REPLACE IT!
I can't stress this enough!
This is probably the #1 reason for 'Loss Of Power' or 'Poor Economy' complaints after a 'Tune Up'!
People just don't realize how fragile the plugs are! I also do not accept damaged plug boxes and always ask for another, by one more than you'll need.
Use a wire feeler gage and not the flat feeler, the wire will help you feel an imperfections than may need to be filed, otherwise these create a hot spot and typically burn off, thereby changing the plug gap.

You don't need a ton of 'Never Seize' on the threads, but you DO need to use it (Copper if you can find it, but zinc is OK. This makes for a good grounding of the plug.
Use a 'Q-Tip' and put a little dab of dielectric grease (Tune Up grease) in each end of each plug boot.
(If you use factory coil, DO NOT grease the coil end of the coil wire, everything with a 'Spark Plug' terminal gets it!)

This will help keep the water from your connections, and that will keep the ignition from grounding out, and it will keep the terminals from corroding.
The grease also keeps the boots from drying out and cracking.

I noticed you're on the subject of torques, typically all plugs require 15-18 foot lbs, but also note that feel become ever more important part of installing plugs as they are access limitation under the hood of any modern vehicle, and more often than not, the use of a torque wrench isn't feasible, and also keep in mind, changing the angle of the socket, or using any tool other than a straight extension will alter your final torque.

Just a few quick points I thought ya'll may enjoy..

 

[sixdogs]

Good commentary, Tollster. Thank you.

 

[Tollster]

You're welcome, I know my spelling isn't the best, and have a bad habit of not reviewing before I post.. wasn't a business major either, so typing isn't my forte' .

 

[Coyote machine]

Lets see, copper anti-seize, check. Straight line torquing, check. Hand turn plugs 'till seated, check.
Seems I already covered all those salient points in an earlier post? Does anyone read the posts before posting the same points?:confused3:

 

[sixdogs]

Just to wrap this up, I got a Chilton Toyota repair manual from the library. Even that answer is labored since the spark plug torque for the 4.7 V8 Tundra is listed as 156 inch lbs. Good grief.

Since there are 12 inch lbs in a ft lb that means the torque is 13 ft lbs. I'll pretty much know it when I feel it but it's good to have that number as a reference point.

 

[3930dave]

Just to wrap this up, I got a Chilton Toyota repair manual from the library. Even that answer is labored since the spark plug torque for the 4.7 V8 Tundra is listed as 156 inch lbs. Good grief.

Since there are 12 inch lbs in a ft lb that means the torque is 13 ft lbs. I'll pretty much know it when I feel it but it's good to have that number as a reference point.

It's worth chasing down data like that... Al heads aren't forgiving of rough treatment.

Things like this gave me an excuse to buy a good quality 3/8" torque wrench.

Rgds, D.