Corect type and size hose to run to the front from rear remotes.

[powerscol]

My Kuhn's hay grapple showed up today...Santa Came Early. Now I need to have hydraulic hoses made up (or bought on-line) to go from the rear remotes to the front of the loader arm, a set of quick connect couplings, then a set of shorter hoses to the grapple unit hydraulic cylinder. At the cylinder the lugs have o-ring seals, not taper thread plugs

I know nothing about hydraulic hoses, so do not know the size or type to use. The rear remote fittings are labeled KWAN KWANG 12 PT 1/2.They look like 1/2 inch fittings (3/4 inch thread diameter inside on the back). So do I need to run 1/2 inch hoses?

On-line there must be dozens of hose types types and brands, and an even larger selection of fittings. I Don't know what I need or where to start. Brand, wall thickness, reinforcement, abrasion resistance or wraps. Current hoses on tractor loader arms have a outer wrapping - looks like woven nylon or something.
I am also wondering the best route to run them on my CT 235.

Pump flow is 7.9 GPM and I would like to have all that available for future attachments. System release pressure is 2611 PSI.
Anyway help would be appreciated.

Thanks - Keith

 

[MtnViewRanch]

First off, because you are thinking ahead for future use, run 3/8" hoses. No reason to run anything any bigger, your pump only puts out what a 3/8 hose will handle just fine. Assuming you don't want to spend the extra $100 to be able to separate the hoses at the loader if you were to remove the loader.

Best way to figure out where to route and how long the hoses need to be, use a 3/8" air hose if you have some, or a garden hose will also work. The air hose typically mimics the hydraulic hose pretty good though.

Then you need to decide how you want your ends out on the loader. What type, what size (should be 1/2") and are you going to fasten them in a solid bulkhead mount or leave them loose. Lots of people do it both ways.

R17 hose is all you need and will be most economical for you. As far as hose protection, my personal feeling is that it is not needed when properly routed.

You have 1/2" ISO 5675 poppet type couplers at the rear remotes.

Just my :2cents:, let me know if you need any other help.

 

[powerscol]

All I can say is WOW. Now to look up what you mentioned. Can you recommend any good sources for the materials? Question - what do you mean by a solid bulkhead mount? I was thinking of zip tying the ends to the loader cross bar. Again - Thanks for the help.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Look here at picture #3 for the mount. You can get pretty much everything here. These guys are one of my suppliers.:thumbsup:

 

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

All I can say is WOW. Now to look up what you mentioned. Can you recommend any good sources for the materials? Question - what do you mean by a solid bulkhead mount? I was thinking of zip tying the ends to the loader cross bar. Again - Thanks for the help.

Personally, I would recommend SAE 100R2AT instead of 100R17, because the R2AT has a thicker, more durable cover. It will also handle higher pressures (4,000 PSI instead of 3,000 PSI). I'm nitpicking in a way, because both hoses are very good and cost roughly the same. I just thought you would like to have that info.

You can order your hose assemblies here 3/8" Custom Hydraulic Hoses

We also carry any additional fittings and adapters you may need as well.

 

[CJONE]

Like has been suggested I used 3/8" 100r2 with 1/2npt ends. It works fine with anything I have used. Hose guard is not needed as long as you route and tie the hoses correctly like Mountain view said. CJ

 

[powerscol]

Thanks Folks. As for mounting blocks, I can only find weld on. Do bolt on exists. I would like to bolt to the cover plate that runs across the loader arm as shown in picture 3 of Brians post. Also in those posts there is a junction block at the loader connection point so the loader can be removed without having to undo a lot of hose. I have never needed to remove my loader unit, I just take the bucket off for baling, and will now have the grapple unit on when baling. Is this junction needed?

Also on one photo somewhere I saw there was a flexible arm on a tractor holding a loop of hydraulic hoses - looked like a strain re-leaf device of some sort, but I have had no luck finding one. Could this be from a semi where they hold the air hoses behind the cab? Anyway, what do you folks suggest back there.

Thanks again - Keith

PS Ken I sent an email to the sales of you company with a few other questions.

Happy Holidays folks

 

[CJONE]

I have no strain reliefs, no couplers [because the loader never comes off] and zip tied with buffers at the end. I am just shy of 500 hours with 0 issues. CJ

 

[George2615]

I ran 1/2" hose from my rear remotes to the front. 3/8" will also work and may be a little easier to fish along the frame. I measured the length I needed with a tape measure and bought ready made 2 wire 3000 psi hose from TSC. Also bought my fittings there. There are many hyd. sales places to buy ready made hose and fittings from. TSC just happened to have everything I needed in stock when I stopped one day so I didn't have to order, pay shipping and wait. I started at the remotes and zip tied every foot or so. Attached is my list.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I have a Kuhns grapple as well and had to run the hoses from the rear to the front. Didn't use any blocks with mine and have had 0 issues in three years. Did you get the tie wrap or the squeeze arm for your grabber? make sure you set some bales up to adjust your hooks so that you don't drop any bales!