Tractor heater?

[PILOON]

Here's a picture that shoes what it looks like mounted in the tractor.

Yep, that is where I mounted mine as well in yy Mitsu.
I used a school bus 'rear under seat' unit from scrapped bus.
Carter was the manufacturer and the unit is 6" X 6" and rated (I think) at about 30,000 btu's.
And as you, I wanted the heat to blow down as the lower cab is where most cold leakage comes from.
Besides, when my feet are warm I am a happy camper. (er tractor driver)

 

[buickanddeere]

If your aftermarket cab is sealed fairly tight you could get away with one of these 300W ceramic heaters. I had this model in my aftermarket cab and it kept me warm enough to plow without gloves.

UTV Heater: ATV Parts | eBay

If you need more heat this 600W heater works well also but costs much more.

12 Volt 10 020 BTU 600W Cab Heater for Skid Steers Farm Tractors Mini Excavators | eBay

Either one will need to be wired directly to the battery. I installed a 20A toggle switch in my cab to shut off the power to it.
There are other heaters available but they must be plumbed into the water pump and block water jacket. I found on an aftermarket cab there isn't much room to install the plumbed in type.

A 300W 12V heater draws 25amp. How much alternator capacity is there to spare to operate the lights, charge the battery and supply the heater? 300W is only good for clearing fog from a diner plate sized area of window glass.
Kubota B2320 Electrical:
Ground: negative
Charging system: alternator
Charging amps: 14.5
40 (optional)

A engine coolant supplied system is the only practical source of heat.

 

[George2615]

A 300W 12V heater draws 25amp. How much alternator capacity is there to spare to operate the lights, charge the battery and supply the heater? 300W is only good for clearing fog from a diner plate sized area of window glass.
Kubota B2320 Electrical:
Ground: negative
Charging system: alternator
Charging amps: 14.5
40 (optional)

A engine coolant supplied system is the only practical source of heat.

The tractor I had my Road Pro heater in had a 50A alternator. I had plenty of power to run the heater with lights on, 4ways flashing, revolving light on and kept the battery charged. I mounted mine on a steel bar across the roof in back of my cab blowing forward. I never took a temperature reading inside the cab. I just know I didn't need to wear gloves or a heavy winter coat (just a lightweight jacket was required) while plowing. But I'm comfortable working in my garage in a T shirt at 50-55*. Would it roast you out of the cab, No it would not. All I'm indicating is this heater worked for me. Based on the posted B2320 specs (which I did not know) you are correct the 2320 would not be able to support a heater like this with only 14.5A. It might be possible with a 40A alternator.

 

[GPintheMitten]

A kubota B2320 doesn't have much spare amps. I bought a heater much like Chim posted. I think you would be better off with that type fed from the coolant.

 

[milkman]

I posted this a few days ago in another thread, might fit your need.

Surplus Center

 

[Dave M7040]

I agree that a heater using engine coolant is the only way to go.
I have found that to work reliably the heater core should be below the level of the coolant in the rad other wise you tend to get air locks.
I put one on an old Nuffield 465 and having the heater low down was the only way it would work.
On my new Kubota M7040 the heater core is below the seat and hence below the top of the rad.
Others may know of workable high heaters but this has been my experience.
Dave M7040

 

[HEC]

For all you using the coolant type heaters be very careful with your hoses and connections as I had a cousin get burned pretty bad when a hose let go .

 

[DeereMann]

I'm going to try the 300W electric from Curtis Cabs.

My engine (diesel) doesn't heat up a lot in the winter, and I have to remove my cab for summer (low-hanging brush & branches - too much too trim it all!). I had a gas L&G tractor with coolant heater, but it was a pain to take it on & off every year.

I know a 300W heater doesn't throw much heat, but if it's enough to take the edge off the bitter cold, that's good enough for me. Heck, just the windbreak from the cab alone is a god-send!

 

[locknut]

I don't know where they came up with the info on those heaters listed in Post #4. 300 Watts at 12 volts should require 25 amps. The at 600 Watt heater is supposed to produce 10,000 BTU's. From what I see, the BTU's are about 1/5 of that number. Check the conversion charts.

I don't understand the claim either.I talked to the guy that builds these and he swears by his numbers-went off on a technical rant I couldn't understand.When they built the old style heaters with the quartz elements the conversion was pretty close.Then they changed over to the new Ru-Car elements and the BTU claims went way up.I told him I'd buy some 120V models to heat my house but never heard back.At any rate,they do throw out good heat.I currently run the new style with configurable vents (24V / 45 Amp) and it seems comparable to a 1500W space heater.

Older style four element Quartz 24V/35amp



Newer style enclosed with vents

 

[Utopia Texas]

What is this "snow" stuff you refer too?
Will it effect how I mow my lawn right before Christmas?