Black pipe or galvanized for shop air lines?

[forgeblast]

I would worry about copper in my barn, my neighbors house was hit by copper theives who cut all his water lines out. Sadly you might want to paint the copper to make it look like black pipe.

 

[Fallon]

Has anybody looked at these set ups?

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=391196"/>

I have that setup... Not installed yet though. That tubing is going to be a lot safer than PVC though. Not brittle & if I remember rated to 175psi @ 90f. Planning on using the 1/2" for my main backbone across the shop. Will pickup the cheaper 3/8" for future smaller branch lines.

If I remember the 3/8" is all plastic, the 1/2" is aluminum lined.

 

[Fallon]

Dupe post

 

[ray66v]

I noticed today that Rural King has one of those plastic hose, air line kits in stock, for $89.

I would rather have steel pipe. But, for those who are looking for the easy way out, that kit is an option.

 

[RYCO PSYCHO]

If you use black pipe, make sure when you run your drops you tee off the TOP of the line. This will help keep moisture from running down the drop. Also, make sure you put auto drains on your system to keep moisture out of your tools/equipment. I would suggest using Teflon tape instead of pipe dope. This makes it easier for repair/replacement on fittings.

 

[tnjind]

I use airbrake line, like what is used on semi trailers. It is nylon tubing and utilizes push on fittings. I use it extensively at my work place and also at my personal shop.

 

[Scrambler82]

I didn't read all of the posts even though I tried.
I was up in the air over what type of air lines to use in my MA shop back a few years, 15 I think.
Talked with a few people around my area in MA, a few shops and found a machine shop that use high pressure rubber hose.
Why hose, based on the type you choose it will handle as much pressure as most compressors can produce, there is almost no sweating in the lines and no possibiliity of rusting.
Cost is lower than metal pipe, in most cases, and fittings about equal but the fittings are easier to install. And less chance of leaks.

So I went that route, 300 psi rubber hose, clamped every 15 or so inches and pulled tight.
Put drain valve setups at the end of the main run and the end of each sbranch run.
Tapped the air chucks off the hose before the end valve and turned the hose upward to allow any water to drain back to the main drain, allowing for any water buildup to go to the bottom not out the chuck.

One thing to remember about water in the air system, it will build up at the low points so open the drain valves at the end of the branch you want to use before drawing any air and when you tap off the main for a branch line mount the "T" upward , less chance of water going up in the branch line.

Just thinking out loud again.
I used the rubber hose in MA, cold winters and all for a long time without any problems and now that I am building a new shop in SoCal I will do the same thing, more rubber hose.

 

[cormier]

I was going to suggest the plastic air line with push lock fittings used in industrial applications. We have the festo brand air line in our plant that is close to 20 years old and we never seen it failed. But we also use the rubber stuff to with just as good of results. The rubber is a bit more expensive.

 

[vwnotrunning]

I did not read all the thread, but be sure any plastic or rubber tubing has adequate UV rating to prevent deterioration from sunlight coming through door / windows.

 

[PACountryGuy]

. . . when you tap off the main for a branch line mount the "T" upward . . .

Can somebody please explain about the tee pointing up. I think I will have my line overhead and pointing tees up seems awkward to plumb.