Septic tank

   / Septic tank
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Raspy, that is what I was thinking. The inlet T would be the first place a clog would happen. I have also read where the inlet T stops the water coming in from doing unnecessary churning. Then I also read where the inlet should be lower than the outlet T and then I read the reverse. I'm inclined to let what is working continue to work. The septic clean out guy did not see the downturned outlet pipes because I did not have those access holes located. I only opened the access holes above the inlet pipes. He thought I had just a straight outlet pipes like the inlet pipes and he suggested 4 Ts.

After he left I found the other access lids above the outlet pipes. I had to remove the square cement lids with hydraulic jack a pipe and a block of wood - luckily they did not crack when they popped up.

I have learned that the scum layer can be 4" - 8" thick and the outlet downturn pipes are 16" and 9" so I should be OK there. However if a T is placed at the final outlet you would be able to tell if sludge is entering the field line.

I still have a few days before it fills to the outlets and am still researching.
 
   / Septic tank #12  
I think the outlet tees you have now should be enough, and as you say it's working. You don't want to 'improve' it until it's broken, or barely works, as often happens.

If it acts up you should eat a low-fiber diet. :D
 
   / Septic tank #14  
I had a septic pumper tell me that we must have a good diet - our turds floated!
 
   / Septic tank #17  
5 yrs, no problems..... I wouldnt mess with something that's working. JMHO.
 
   / Septic tank #18  
My field by necessity is uphill from the tank so I need a sewage pump.
A recent power failure caused the float switch to malfunction (got tangled) and I had to pull the lid. Problem was that the ground was frozen hard making lid removal a problem.
We built a fire over the lid to thaw the earth, untangled the line and all is back to normal.
 

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