Redecking bridge

[SPIKER]

Real lumber yards will have 2x8 T&G available as well used for larger barns skirt boards, what is on mine. The T&G is more of a square notch on them than the wimpy round notches on the big box stores lumber.

I agree not to use them in a flat bridge deck type application though.

When I did the numbers on my Bridge Re-decking and cost of a Culvert I found my 20 something foot long bridge cost same as a good Culvert. I had access to the creek wash bottom & it is dry enough in summer/fall to scoop out the needed gravel to fill it in.

So I figured a new deck only lasts about 15 years driving over it (if that long) & guess I have maybe 25~30 years left at my place before I'm too old to care I went with the culvert and filled in the old bridge. I left the bridge in place and stuffed culverts under it, pulled loose the decking and drove out filling in buried the steel beams in the gravel. I have a thread in here some place probably 5 or 6 pages back now with a lot of pics.

Mark

 

[Xfaxman]

I've never seen treated wood that is T&G before and was surprised that it's available. I've been trying to figure out where it would be used without any success. -------------------------------

Eddie

Real lumber yards will have 2x8 T&G available as well used for larger barns skirt boards, what is on mine. The T&G is more of a square notch on them than the wimpy round notches on the big box stores lumber.

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Mark

The square notch T&G was used for stall walls in the horse barn where we used to live. Horses can't kick a hole in it like plywood.

 

[tlj87]

When I did the numbers on my Bridge Re-decking and cost of a Culvert I found my 20 something foot long bridge cost same as a good Culvert. I had access to the creek wash bottom & it is dry enough in summer/fall to scoop out the needed gravel to fill it in. So I figured a new deck only lasts about 15 years driving over it (if that long) & guess I have maybe 25~30 years left at my place before I'm too old to care I went with the culvert and filled in the old bridge. I left the bridge in place and stuffed culverts under it, pulled loose the decking and drove out filling in buried the steel beams in the gravel. I have a thread in here some place probably 5 or 6 pages back now with a lot of pics. Mark

As much as I would love to go with a culvert or low water crossing, it is just not feasible at this site. I must go on using the bridge and a ford for bigger stuff.

I think that I will go with non T&G, PT 2x lumber. Thanks everyone for the feedback. Hopefully I can start on a sketch soon including the new deck and wood railings. I am waiting on a quote from a welder to build the framework for 8' wide ramps for either end which will be decked the same as the bridge itself.

 

[SirReal63]

I've never seen treated wood that is T&G before and was surprised that it's available. I've been trying to figure out where it would be used without any success.
Eddie

The major use was for flatbed trailer decking. One of the largest producers in the country was about 30 minutes from you. We produced several hundred thousand board feet a month for companies like Omaha Standard and Knapheide. Number one lumber was treated to .60 (CCA) and the kiln charge was brought down to about 8% moisture so the wood was very dry and close to normal acclimated moisture levels for dry wood outdoors. It was then run to a T&G pattern. The result was trailer decking that exhibited minimal shrinking, warping or checking. The typical service life for the product was about 5-7 years. It wore out but did not rot out.

TLJ87, I would not use treated T&G for this use today. The Copper Azole treatment is horrid in comparison to CCA and very few companies do KDAT T&G properly as the market for it has shrunk. I would use KDAT if you can find it, the shrinking and other issues with using wet wood are greatly reduced.