Penetrating fluid

[J_J]

This is the mix that I remember.


CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner/penetrate

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.

 

[Mace Canute]

Another good commercial penetrating oil is the Toyota brand penetrating oil. The smell reminds me of the old General Motors heat riser valve penetrant and lubricant.

 

[angustrees]

On my tractor I just bought in trying to take a few bits and pieces off to paint up and there's some pins which are well and truly rusted solid and can't get them out to take off the rear lift arms. I've tried levering them, tried hitting them, tried to hear it up to get off and someone suggested I use some sort of penetrating fluid to free it up and I was wondering what the best this to use is?

I heard that acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid is pretty good and wd40 is useless?

Any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to break anything forcing it too hard.

I got turned to Kroil about a year ago and have not found in my 75 years anything to compare it to. This stuff works, just give it a little time!

 

[swines]

Kroil or Bluecreeper. Bluecreeper is interesting in that it really only takes a tiny bit (drops) which is why they package it with a needle tip. I use both.

Ed's Red was originally made up to clean guns. Doesn't work as well as a mixture of 80% Shooter's Choice with 20% Kroil added. The Shooter's Choice + Kroil will get lead out of guns if you swab the bore and let it sit for about an hour, then brush with a brass brush wrapped with some copper Chore Boy material. The lead will literally come out of the barrel in chunks because the Kroil will get under the lead and separate it from the steel barrel.

 

[barrja]

Napa sells a freeze spray that works well it shrinks the part and breaks the rust.
I also use the acetone and atf for severe rust soak a rag and rap the part

 

[Garson]

On my tractor I just bought in trying to take a few bits and pieces off to paint up and there's some pins which are well and truly rusted solid and can't get them out to take off the rear lift arms. I've tried levering them, tried hitting them, tried to hear it up to get off and someone suggested I use some sort of penetrating fluid to free it up and I was wondering what the best this to use is?

I heard that acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid is pretty good and wd40 is useless?

Any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to break anything forcing it too hard.

=============================================

Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrates for break-out
torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating Oil and Average Load*

Nothing..... ......... ....... 516 pounds

WD-40....... ......... ....... 238 pounds

PB Blaster..... ......... .. 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench...... ... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil....... ........ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix..... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial
product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
-------
I tested the acetone, transmission fluid mix on 50 year old one inch rusted bolts. The nuts twisted off like a miracle.

 

[Mark 42]

Try pressing a sledge hammer tight against one side and popping the opposite side a sharp blow with another hammer ( like a 3 lb. ). Sometimes this will momentarily distort the cylinder out of round just enough to break the bond. If penetrating juice has been tried first there are no guarantees of this method. Dry works better.

Be careful about banging hammers together - I've never had it happen, but heard that they can chip because they
are hardened (wear safety glasses). If you have a big piece of scrap metal to put against the pin and beat on.
it may be safer. An air chisel or wrecking hammer (small jackhammer) with a blunt tip is probably best.
Either way, what you want is vibrations, so hitting it with a hammer with rapid blows may work better
than just hitting it hard.

 

[Cameron Smith]

When you finally get it apart and go to re-assemble it, give everything a good coating of never-seize compound (about any brand; I use the original) because the next poor SOB that has to take it apart might be YOU!

 

[Marauderer]

You were correct with the 50/50 acetone and ATF mixture. put it in a spry bottle and it is the best hands down.

 

[the old grind]

I use Gibbs on the guns when not wanting the stink or hazards of Kroil or ATF/acetone (on stock finish, etc) or able to use heat. Gibbs Brand I'd rank it with Kroil for effectiveness, and it's great for cleaning up locks or freeing stuck nipples on sidelock MLs and on alum. IMO paraffin (canning wax) works about as good as bee's wax for heat & wick use. U-joint or ball-joint presses beat c-clamps for pressing and are more compact.

I agree that heating doesn't require hot disassembly every time. Having press tension or using air hammer helps there during or after heating cycle. Several hot/cool cycles often allow penetrants or wax to work in better once cooled. Have used a burp gun (HD, <200 cycles/min) to remove bucket pins that weren't stuck, just rusty, when no helper was available to take side-tension off 'em.