Penetrating fluid

   / Penetrating fluid #31  
the pin can slip out on some and seize in others.

the air hammer tip is a good one.

another one is to take a hex nut, a large one.. with an ID just smaller than the head of the pin, weld it to the head of the pinfromt he inside ID of the nut. now put an impact wrench on it. once you get it to spin, it's the beginning of the end.

then you can cut the pin off and grind it back so it looks like you never welded on it.

lastly, if it just won't go. usually there is enough side clearance between the yoke to get a sawsall or hacksaw blade in and cut the pin on either side, then grind the head and but off then just drive the slugs out, clean up the holes.

take the center knuckle to your vice where you can get at it better. i have heated them cherry red then set them in a coffee can of diesel and left them there a day, and then you come back and they drift out with a hand punch and drilling hammer.

for these things.. as much of it depends on how you hold your mouth as anything. ;)
 
   / Penetrating fluid #33  
Obviously there plenty of options to getting something to come apart quickly heat, impact tools, but good ol' penetrating fluid alone will only work if you give it enough time to do its job. Sometimes you apply penetrating fluid and ten minutes later something pops loose but not usually. :laughing:

I had a the PTO selector handle on my tractor freeze solid to the shaft it rotated on. It hadn't been moved out of the only position I use it in for probably more than a dozen years. Good thing for me it was a linkage assembly and not just direct into the case. I removed the part and put it in a vise it and took a good week of soaking it and hammer tapping before it started moving again. Another time I had broken off the brake bleeder screw froze stuck in my old Harley brake caliper. Again gave about a weeks worh of applying PF daily then drove in a splined extractor and it turned out like nothing.

The very first time I ever saw KROIL being used was in an old Easyrider magazine article way back in late 70's. They profiled how a fellow had an old (then) knucklehead motor that the rocker arms were seized solid to shaft, Applying Kroil over time, letting it soak in and using light taps with a hammer the pieces eventually separated with ease. I will never forget that!

Of course there's always been the BFH too! :D
 
   / Penetrating fluid #34  
x3 (? I lost track) on the PB Blaster and that WD is only good for water displacement (altho everyone seems think it's a lube)
 
   / Penetrating fluid #35  
Heat is what you need! If it glows cherry it's ready, hit it with a big hammer or an air chisel. If at first you don't succeed, try
try, again!!!
 
   / Penetrating fluid #36  
Heat is what you need! If it glows cherry it's ready, hit it with a big hammer or an air chisel. If at first you don't succeed, try
try, again!!!
 
   / Penetrating fluid #37  
I like the big socket and c-clamp idea. I would do that and within about 15 minutes I would have those pins out. Well maybe I'd better not crow too much.

I would use the c-clamp and socket idea and then take a medium sized hammer and start hitting the end of the lift arm where the pins go through. I would apply a penetrating fluid or wax and then start hitting each side of the arm with a hammer. Hit directly in the end in line with the arm. You don't need to beat it as hard as you can you just want to hit it hard enough to send a shock through the arm. After about three or four hits then switch and hit the other side of the arm. After doing this a few times tighten up the c-clamp some more. Repeat until the pin moves. If you want to leave it sit for a day you might get a pleasant surprise and find that the pin has moved without you doing anything. Heat along with the c-clamp and hammer will probably work even better
 
   / Penetrating fluid #38  
x3 (? I lost track) on the PB Blaster and that WD is only good for water displacement (altho everyone seems think it's a lube)



WD makes a penetrant now....
 
   / Penetrating fluid #39  
3in1 oil works great i ...i use pb blaster on rusted up bolts eventually will work them lose
 
   / Penetrating fluid #40  
ATF and Acetone mixed about 50 50 works as good as anything. Just put in a spray bottle and spray it on preferably much earlier like a week repeating every day. Save that old ATF and you will never have to buy penetrating oil again. Acetone is 17 a gallon or so so it's cheap and effective. I have used it for years with no problems. If you let some drift into your eyes you will say ouchie but not much more and I have yet to have any serious fire issues. Just don't let it build up in a contained place and hit with torch ect. Just wipe off and do your thing.
On the torch thing don't heat and beat:thumbdown:. Let it cool down and I mean cool down fairly cold. Go get a coffee grab a beer whatever then do it again bringing it to cherry then wait till cool and pound. Mechanics do it quick all the time but it works better if you actually do it right and take your time.
The air chisel thing I just learned from a guy a couple years ago. It works way crazy considering how little power it has but let me assure you it';s my Rust Belt go to along with the torch. Better yet use them alternating. Put the oil on there after it heats and cools and just wail on it with the flat cut off remains of an old air chisel bit. Chinese junk works great. Just keep hammering while you spray the juice on the item. All that hammering really loosens the rust and lets the penetrating oil get right in there. Do it use it you'll be amazed.
I helped a guy take the pivot pin out of his JD backhoe a while back. It had a 2" pin horizontal and in there since 85. He's the one who showed me this and I was dazzled how well it worked. :dance1: It did take an hour but all we had was a cheap HF air chisel , sledge, rosebud and some penetrating oil. You can see the cracks start to open up and the oil start to go in. Absolutely amazing.
 

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