Another Storage/barn thread

[MacLawn]

:checkmark: Wha' he said.

 

[edkemper]

It's a 5th wheel now. In 5 or 10 years when you get bored, it may be a 45' diesel motorhome. Do yourself a favor now and make it large enough to handle a large RV, larger than you own now. Wide enough for all slideouts to be out, high enough for any conceivable situation with an RV. Wish I had.

Pirate,

Wife and I are done with traveling. We bought the property for a permanent vacation spot. We only have the trailer so we can live on the property while we build. The only places we are ever likely to travel to are farm shows and then only in OR or WA. We'll stay in hotels for the weekend. The trailer will only stay to use for guest after the house is finished.

We live debt free and there is no way that we will ever want to or be able to buy a mega motorhome. We've figured out our end game.

 

[MortalWombat]

Check out the "Building an old fashioned pole barn" series of videos at Farm Hand Companion's website for some ideas on how to build one from scratch:

Farm Hand's Companion | Building or Making Things on the Farm or Homestead

 

[EddieWalker]

24 feet wide is a good starting point, but it would be worth your time to go to where you plan to buy your trusses and find out what it will cost to go wider and where it becomes too expensive or not worth the effort. You will also have to hire a crane to lift the trusses into position. Cost will really depend on your area and what's available.

You have several options on how far apart to space your trusses, but mostly you will do what they truss company says. I personally like to go with one every four feet and then attach 2x4's on the flat to the tops of the trusses every four feet. With the trusses four feet apart, I like for my purlins to be 12 feet long and to stagger where they end on the truss. This length allows you to cover three trusses. Going with 16 foot long 2x4's is even better. Having them on the flat makes it easy to find width of wood to screw the metal down. If you go farther then four feet for your trusses, you have to put the purlins on edge. the farther apart you go, the larger sized lumber you will need. Depending on snow and type of lumber available, this gets into engineering advice best left to a pro or the truss company.

If you want to go with shingles, then you need to space your trusses every two feet and install either OSB or plywood. I prefer OSB because it's cheaper and it holds nails better.

I have 12 foot walls and a ten foot tall roll up door in my shop. I can get my backhoe into my shop with the hoe extended, but would prefer a taller door if I was to bring it in there on a regular bases. Before committing to a wall height, decide your door height and what you will use for a door. You don't have to buy it, but it's real easy to frame for it now.

Once you have the size of your building figured out, and then you have your poles installed in the ground, you will need to install the header at the top of the poles to support the roof. With your poles being set every 8 feet, and if you go every four feet on your trusses, you will have one truss resting directly on top of a pole, and the next one resting in the middle span of the header. You can get away with smaller lumber, but if it was me and mine, I would go with two 2x12x16's notched into the tops of the poles, then three bolts going through the posts and the 2x12's to keep them in place. I would stagger the ends also.

After the headers are installed, I would install diagonal bracing. With your all height and since you are not going to put any walls on right away, the diagonal bracing is going to be critical to keeping everything in place. If not, it will look and feel like grass blowing in the wind. The bigger the bracing, meaning the farther down the post you go, the better. With an 8 foot span, I would use a 2x6x8 and go from the middle of that span down 4 to 6 feet on ever post. This is overkill, but I don't know what the minimum should be, and I think lumber is cheap enough to make it as strong as possible. Then after the bracing is in, I would cut 3/4 plywood to fit the outside corners of all my bracing. Depending on the length and width of the building, I might be tempted to put plywood gusseting on my bracing at the middle points, or at every third or quarter point. Not having walls means you lose a lot of sheer strength. Making up for this is very important.

Eddie

 

[Billrog]

Here's a few picks of a shed build I did this stile because of limited flat ground and I had to build a 20' plus rock wall and fill it in to get this space. Any way the picks will give you an idea but the angle braces ( front to back) are not installed yet in these pics.
Shed Photos by Bill_053 | Photobucket
Here's a pic. where you can see the braces sorry not the best but some reference.

 

[Billrog]

Here are a couple other stiles that could be implemented for storage sheds accessed from the front .

In this one you can see the plywood gussets Eddie mentioned in his post.These were done with posts buried.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Two options, one quick method is using shipping containers on both sides with the tall metal canopy in the middle. Add a back and front and you're in business.
I like the safety of the containers to lock up tools etc.
Other option that I did was a metal building. I got a 100'x125' building for 50K....the concrete pad cost more than the building.
Ezyframe - Shipping Container Roof Kit

Last there are these.

Advantages of Buying Quonset Hut Kits

 

[edkemper]

Check out the "Building an old fashioned pole barn" series of videos at Farm Hand Companion's website for some ideas on how to build one from scratch:

Farm Hand's Companion | Building or Making Things on the Farm or Homestead

Just brought it up. Thank you. I'll enjoy watching it.

 

[edkemper]

24 feet wide is a good starting point, but it would be worth your time to go to where you plan to buy your trusses and find out what it will cost to go wider and where it becomes too expensive or not worth the effort.
You have several options on how far apart to space your trusses,
If you want to go with shingles, then you need to space your trusses every two feet
I have 12 foot walls and a ten foot tall roll up door in my shop. I can get my backhoe
Once you have the size of your building figured out, and then you have your poles installed in the ground,
After the headers are installed, I would install diagonal bracing. With your all height and since
Eddie

I am so glad you are here and willing and able to teach. I hope you understand how helpful you are and how much I appreciate your time and effort.

Thank you.

 

[edkemper]

Here's a few picks of a shed build I did this stile because of limited flat ground and I had to build a 20' plus rock wall and fill it in to get this space. Any way the picks will give you an idea but the angle braces ( front to back) are not installed yet in these pics.
Shed Photos by Bill_053 | Photobucket
Here's a pic. where you can see the braces sorry not the best but some reference.
View attachment 410680

Nice job. Cool design. That Extendahoe sure helps. Glad I have one also. The pics do help with understanding the words. Appreciate the effort.