Temperature gauge

[winston1]

The gauge requires it's own sensor. The correct sensor and adapter is included in the kit. Yes, you would need to splice into a dash light wire to illuminate. I cut the wire going into the old warning light and used that wire from the new sensor to the new gauge.

Many people prefer an oil pressure gauge over the warning light. I prefer the light. I am much more likely to see a light come on than to see a gauge drop pressure. I do regularly check to make sure my warning light is working. You can install a pressure gauge that reads off and elecrical current. Just requires its own sensor. Your threads are 1/8"bpt, 1 thread per inch different than npt.

 

[RUMBLON]

I have a dumb question. Where are the fuse panels for these rigs? There is a removable panel under the gauges on mine, screws are rusted shut. I have no shop lights yet so Im using a flashlight in the now dark shop trying to check fuses.

RUMBLON

 

[winston1]

This is what your fuse box should look like. You will find it about a foot down on the left hand side of the dash. A little above your your left foot. Yanmar Tractor Parts FUSE BOX ASSEMBLY

Put a scan of your electrical and will attach a 1700 scan just to help you interpret. http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62199&d=1236421517

 

[careyo63]

You may have a old fuse panel. Old Fuse Links maybe wire looking on a Flat pane "no cover". Just to the left under the dash. The are probably burnt just like a Glass fuse. The System is simple. Temp. Oil. and Charge. Ground out the wire and the light on the dash will come on. That tells you your Circuit is working and probably your gauge is to. Turn the key on and Oil/AC. Charge will come on. Crank it and they should go out. Get it working then I would add Gauges if need be. Here's a Diagram of a Ym2000. It's not your model tractor but it's basically the same. Crank it up and Oil/charge light goes out then your good. Ground the water Temp Wire out and it should come on. Hope that's right it's early for me!

 

[RUMBLON]

Thanks for the replies. I thought I REMOVED THE FUSE BOX ? As I did find it. But the pic tells me a lot as it shows me the fuse sizes. Mine has four fuses and they are all huge amp fuses, which tells me they either had issues with then or were just out of fuses. I have zero lights on in my dash and nothing works, horn, headlamps ect. Since I am used to cars/ trucks I am used to a HOT leads coming off to a fused link off of the positive. This has a hot battery cable that goes directly to the starter solenoid and then from there the harness goes behind the dash are. I have five rusted screws holding that metal plate on under the dash/ steering wheel so I WILL remove that. My main issue is my shop is not done, just enclosed and I am waiting to add another sub panel to give me more lighting and its cloudy cold and dark. so I will have to wait. so I sprayed all the leads and screws with WD40 so as to be able to get it all apart. If all else fail I can wire a temp gauge in from scratch using all new wiring. Thats almost easier for me. Once I have some light, I will use my test light and start tracing power.

 

[RUMBLON]

Thanks for the replies. I thought I REMOVED THE FUSE BOX ? As I did find it. But the pic tells me a lot as it shows me the fuse sizes. Mine has four fuses and they are all huge amp fuses, which tells me they either had issues with then or were just out of fuses. I have zero lights on in my dash and nothing works, horn, headlamps ect. Since I am used to cars/ trucks I am used to a HOT leads coming off to a fused link off of the positive. This has a hot battery cable that goes directly to the starter solenoid and then from there the harness goes behind the dash are. I have five rusted screws holding that metal plate on under the dash/ steering wheel so I WILL remove that. My main issue is my shop is not done, just enclosed and I am waiting to add another sub panel to give me more lighting and its cloudy cold and dark. so I will have to wait. so I sprayed all the leads and screws with WD40 so as to be able to get it all apart. If all else fail I can wire a temp gauge in from scratch using all new wiring. Thats almost easier for me. Once I have some light, I will use my test light and start tracing power.




I managed to clean up the connections on the fuse box and now I have power to my OIL and CHARGING lights. This was the far left or #1 FUSE in the box and it also fixed my horn, which now works.

I have a TEMP LIGHT but I also have a TEMP AND FUEL GAUGE, neither of which work. I have NO POWER coming from the connector that comes out of the dash to my fuel sending unit.

I have shown a picture of the fuse box. The fuses are listed 1-4 from left to right.

#1: fixed my two working dash warning light OIL and CHARGING.

#2 IS UNKNOWN

#3 IS UNKNOWN

#4: LIGHTS.

Does anyone know what #2 and #3 source?

Also, I am trying to work on this dash from under the dash and the throttle arm goes through it and wont allow the dash to pull forward.

My turn signal is SOLID and wont turn either direction but its the least important item.

Looks like fender lights are pretty corroded and I see they sell them at HOYE. I will need these and a turn signal switch if I decide it needs one.


If I knew what the #2 and #3 fuses were suppose to source I could probably work around other issues. If one of them is suppose to source the TEMP gauge and I cant get it working then I can use the fuse block and add new wiring and a new gauge that is more accurate.

I have a REAR fender light question. When checking HOYE they well one with a single gree wire with the yellow stripe. The broken wires that I have that go to the rear are a HOT RED and two GREENS. Do these rear fenders take a GREEN and a RED or just the GREEN and than ground on the fender like a trailer light?

FUSE BOX



TEMP FUEL GAUGE


BROKEN WIRES


WARNING LIGHTS

 

[winston1]

Looks like one middle fuse goes to the horn and regulator,other goes to the turn signals.

Pull the wire off the temperature sensor and with the key on touch it to ground and see if the gauge moves. If so, the sender is probably bad.

Schematic shows only one wire going to fender lights, they have to ground to the fender. Most likely the green wires going back there.

Hot red going to rear is probably for a work light.

 

[RUMBLON]

Looks like one middle fuse goes to the horn and regulator,other goes to the turn signals.

Pull the wire off the temperature sensor and with the key on touch it to ground and see if the gauge moves. If so, the sender is probably bad.

Schematic shows only one wire going to fender lights, they have to ground to the fender. Most likely the green wires going back there.

Hot red going to rear is probably for a work light.

would the regulator manage the OIL and CHARGE WARNING LIGHTS? My #1 fuse manages those and the HORN.

 

[RUMBLON]

and YES--When I remove the TEMP GAUGE sensor wire (yellow) and ground it with mt test light to the battery it moves.

So that said, my plan is to add two gauges if possible. The TEMP gauge which winston1 has done and I want an OIL PRESSURE gauge. Can I install an oil pressure gauge to this engine without taping the block ect? HAS ANYONE DONE THIS?

And the GREEN wires with the yellow stripe that match the fender light wires are not hot when I have the lights on? Just the RED is hot.

 

[bmaverick]

Winston, since the fuse box was talked about, do you know the fuse box positions for a YM2500/YM2610 maybe?
Also, I've booked marked your thread for the gauge too. It should fit my gauge panel too.

RUMBLON, You horn switch cover looks in bad shape. I've looked around the web for a replacement for mine, but Hoye, Fredricks and other places no longer offer them. I did find something really close in comparison being a marine horn button or a Club Cart horn button. It costs more than a new shiny penny though.