Best Way to Cut Steel Mesh with Plasma?

[Hilbilly]

I cut some steel mesh for my grapple build and I think I pretty much killed the tip and electrode. The mesh is an old gravel screen and is 3/16" steel wire that is woven into a mesh with 1" square openings. When I cut it I started the arc off the wire and just kept the trigger pulled while I jumped from one wire to the next. I'm now thinking I should have stopped and restarted at each wire cut. What say the plasma experts. If it matters, the machine is a Hypertherm 30XP.

 

[ovrszd]

I am no way an expert. I don't even know the proper terminology. My Miller 625 has some sort of feature that allows it to do that with no damage. I've cut tens of feet of mesh doing it just like you did. I've not saw any ill effects to the cutter.

 

[TnAndy]

I slap a carbide tipped steel cutting blade on my circular saw, and zip thru stuff like this.

 

[Arc weld]

I think most plasma torches list cutting expanded metal as one of their features. Mesh from a gravel screen isn't much different.

 

[ovrszd]

I think most plasma torches list cutting expanded metal as one of their features. Mesh from a gravel screen isn't much different.

Yeah. There's a technical name for that ability to stay "lit" for a millisecond while you move from cut to cut. I just can't remember what they call that feature?

 

[Hilbilly]

Maybe it's just that I'm new to using a plasma but the hole of my first tip is oblong in shape and the owners manual states that is a sign that it needs to be replaced. I have read that the first set of consumables usually gets beat up pretty quickly until the user gets better acquainted with the proper use of the plasma. I guess I'll just keep using it and see how it goes.

 

[BukitCase]

My PM45 has a mode switch that lets you choose mesh, solid plate up to 1 inch, or gouge - neither of the PM30's have that option - they just tell you NOT to use the fine cut consumables for gouging, and nothing is said about cutting mesh. Guess it's a slightly different system?? Steve

 

[ThomasH]

You need pilot arc for cutting expanded metal, as it keeps the arc going. I don't know if that model of plasma cutter has it or not, I looked on their web page and for whatever reason they did not say. If it doesn't have pilot arc, then you could use a circular saw with a steel cutting blade. It will zip right through it.

 

[ovrszd]

You need pilot arc for cutting expanded metal, as it keeps the arc going. I don't know if that model of plasma cutter has it or not, I looked on their web page and for whatever reason they did not say. If it doesn't have pilot arc, then you could use a circular saw with a steel cutting blade. It will zip right through it.

Yes, that's it, "Pilot Arc".

 

[ovrszd]

Maybe it's just that I'm new to using a plasma but the hole of my first tip is oblong in shape and the owners manual states that is a sign that it needs to be replaced. I have read that the first set of consumables usually gets beat up pretty quickly until the user gets better acquainted with the proper use of the plasma. I guess I'll just keep using it and see how it goes.

If I'm doing rough work I don't pay much attention to tip condition. I'll use them as long as I can. Sometimes they'll get worn to the point they don't cut straight with the direction the tip is pointed. They may cut at an angle when the gun is held straight up/down. No worries unless I'm doing delicate work. Then I switch to a new tip.

Worst thing you can do is sit the gun straight down on metal and pull the trigger. Until it gouges thru the metal all the heat is deflected straight back into the tip. Bingo, ruined tip. I always am off the edge of the material being cut when I pull the trigger, then move onto the cut area.

Good friend of mine spent the last 4 days in my shop building a Jeep Buggy. No experience with a Plasma Cutter. He ruined 2 tips the first day. We had to have a "stop and think about it" discussion. Then he got along fine.