Rear Blade I want one of these...

[allen in texas]

but I can't afford it.

Johnson Manufacturing | Home of the HyGrade Pull Type Graders


I have one of these...

RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride


Hard to use, (for me anyway)

 

[Industrial Toys]

I once came accross this at a used equipment dealer and still think about it. Building one that is. Actually got a spare grader blade for scrap price last summer just in case.

I wonder though. A real grader has enourmous weight, especially in the rear tandem wheel end. I wonder how stable a wheeled outfit like this would actually be.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

but I can't afford it.

Johnson Manufacturing | Home of the HyGrade Pull Type Graders


I have one of these...

RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride


Hard to use, (for me anyway)

Allen, you mention that the RBT3584 is difficult for you to use.

Do you have the skid shoes? These really help out IMO. :thumbsup:

Do you have draft control? Again this really can help out when properly setup.

Worse case, get the gauge wheel system for the unit as well as the skid shoes. Lots of :money: though.

 

[allen in texas]

View attachment 415952


I once came accross this at a used equipment dealer and still think about it. Building one that is. Actually got a spare grader blade for scrap price last summer just in case.

I wonder though. A real grader has enourmous weight, especially in the rear tandem wheel end. I wonder how stable a wheeled outfit like this would actually be.

These blades will move sideways if you load them too much when rolling dirt to the side. Even a full sized motor grader will do it. Like you, I am considering building my own but my problem is finding the blade. I actually have an old pull grader that is bent, beat up and worn out that I had thought of rebuilding but it only has a 6 foot blade. I want a 10 footer.

PS my 7 foot RGT3584 will shove my tractor sideways if I try to take to big a bite and I have loaded rears and 642 pound of cast weight on them too.

 

[allen in texas]

Allen, you mention that the RBT3584 is difficult for you to use.

Do you have the skid shoes? These really help out IMO. :thumbsup:

Do you have draft control? Again this really can help out when properly setup.

Worse case, get the gauge wheel system for the unit as well as the skid shoes. Lots of :money: though.

I do not have the gauge wheel or shoes. I priced the wheel this morning. It's a simple piece, very expensive so I'm going to build my own.

Draft? Not sure how draft control will help when the wheels fall in a hole and the blade takes a bite out of what I'm trying to grade. I understand draft for plowing but not in this instance. I don't have a problem overloading the tractor. I just dig holes when I don't want to. The gauge wheel will help a lot there. I should have gotten it when I bought the blade but I was trying to save $800.

 

[Rustyiron]

That rascal looks like a winner. I noticed that some of them have a large chunk of concerte just behind the blade. I wonder how you need to "balast" that thing to make it work.
Lookin at your 2 pics Allen, and living in Levelland, I'm wonderin' what your going to do with it!:laughing:
I recon some drainage & contour work. Looks like it takes some precision grading to get rid of water down there.:thumbsup:

 

[allen in texas]

That rascal looks like a winner. I noticed that some of them have a large chunk of concerte just behind the blade. I wonder how you need to "balast" that thing to make it work.
Lookin at your 2 pics Allen, and living in Levelland, I'm wonderin' what your going to do with it!:laughing:
I recon some drainage & contour work.:thumbsup:

"Levelland" Wonderin' what I'm going to do with it? Whatcher point? LOL

Well I plan to use it on a few roads and stuff that I try to maintain. When it rains we get lots of deep ruts in the dirt roads. Of course the county does the public roads but I want to get a bit of the private road business. I graded a few caliche roads this weekend and I pretty much made a mess. I was able to fix it but it took about double the time that it should have.

Yes, they have ballast boxes in the rear and the concrete block comes with it.

 

[jrclark]

That's a nice rear blade. Call me skeptical, but there's no way a 25hp CUT would be efficient while working that beast.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

"Levelland" Wonderin' what I'm going to do with it? Whatcher point? LOL

Well I plan to use it on a few roads and stuff that I try to maintain. When it rains we get lots of deep ruts in the dirt roads. Of course the county does the public roads but I want to get a bit of the private road business. I graded a few caliche roads this weekend and I pretty much made a mess. I was able to fix it but it took about double the time that it should have.

Yes, they have ballast boxes in the rear and the concrete block comes with it.

Hey, if you are taking care of roads, you may want to include a LPGS if you don't already have one.

 

[oosik]

I've tried for 26 years to maintain my mile long gravel driveway with a rear blade (Land Pride RB3596) in the summer. I finally gave up and bought a Land Pride GS2584. Makes all the difference in the world - I kick myself frequently for not making the change sooner.

 

[allen in texas]

That's a nice rear blade. Call me skeptical, but there's no way a 25hp CUT would be efficient while working that beast.

Yeah, the 800 and 1000 blades are rated for tractors 25-100 hp but I can see where a person could believe that a 25 HP tractor would be underkill.

 

[allen in texas]

Hey, if you are taking care of roads, you may want to include a LPGS if you don't already have one.

So many toys and so little time and money.

TOOLS I mean tools.

I need the blade for leveling out piles of dirt too.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Just tell the dammm people to pay attention and STOP driving in the same rut and pot holes. That is nine tenths of the battle won right there. No fancy equipment required. Washouts are another story.

 

[xring100]

Hey, if you are taking care of roads, you may want to include a LPGS if you don't already have one.

Wow what are the dimensions on your LPGS that thing looks massive?

 

[xring100]

but I can't afford it.

Johnson Manufacturing | Home of the HyGrade Pull Type Graders

I have one of these...

RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

Hard to use, (for me anyway)

That looks nice so many ideas so little money

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Allen, out there in West Texas farm country, you should be able to find an old John Deere Killefer for a reasonable price. We used one of them back on the farm as a land plane to grade roads and level out areas and it worked pretty good. I think ours had fixed side plates on it. I really like those rotatable side plates on the one you linked.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow what are the dimensions on your LPGS that thing looks massive?

Working width of 84", actual width of 89". Side pans are 3/8" break bent pans at 84" long and 22" tall. Weighs in at 1400lbs. I am relatively certain that all metal is 3/8"- 5/8" thick. It has been one of my best investments for an implement. I also have a 60" unit that is all around a bit smaller, but still built with the same thickness materials.

 

[Scrambler82]

I'm looking at the Land Pride GS1560.
Looks rugged enough for my little tractor.

Looked at others but they didn't look as rugged.
Local shop has them for around $1200 delivered.

 

[allen in texas]

MtnViewRanch, Did I see a video of your rear blade working or was it just still pictures. I remember something along those lines and it appeared to really be rolling the dirt. Just wondering...


A bit more on why I want/need one of the pull graders. I have land that I need to level. I have ditches I need to clean and I have roads I need to work.
Note that the statements I am about to make are the opinions of my inexperienced mind so take it for what it's worth.
The only thing that will do all of these tasks well is the pull grader. I can clean ditches pretty well with my blade but as a land leveler for larges plots, it falls short.
The lpgs will work great for roads but it is a single purpose machine.
I should be able to do all of these tasks with a pull grader with the only drawback being the physical size of the machine. Well, price too.

I am going to try your tips on the skid shoes and draft setup and I plan on adding a gauge wheel to my blade. I may decide soon enough that I can manage quite well without this high dollar blade. My wife will like that.

I was traveling today a saw a pull grader sitting in an implement yard. I just HAD to stop and look at it. It was a 16 footer and is a MASSIVE machine. Woohoo. Makes the 10 footer I want look tiny but it sure was neat to look at.

I really need to put up a picture of my old pull grader...

 

[jrclark]

The 16 footer probably requires at least 30HP, though