Ford 1700 starting problems

[JC-jetro]

Cj,

$20 is not much much. I pay just that to just to have an opportunity to open it all up to have thorough look inside. If you store it for future you want to have probably cover it with some thin oil and package to and put it in a dry place. I don't know if any part of it can rust, probably not?

JC,

I found some remanufactured injectors at Weavers Compact Tractor parts. Funny thing is that I thought I had looked there a while ago as this is the same place I bought the alternator. Anyway, I got them installed and then found my battery was to week to turn it over. I charged the battery with a trickle charger over night and it still didn't have the strength. So I will probably jump it from my truck or my bigger tractor or try charging it again with a regular battery charger. I need to do this soon so I can return he injectors if that didn't help. Also, since the injectors are hard to get, I was debating on keeping my old one instead of sending them in to get my $20 core charge each. That way if I need to replace them again, I have the old ones that can be rebuilt. Of course I'd have the new one also. What do you'll think?

 

[rick 1955]

My 1700 ford cold starts with lots of white smoke runs rough for 2-4 minutes, after it warms up it runs great i have noticed the tail pipe flaper wet also. It starts good on warm or hot starts, just bad on cold. Do any of u guys have simular problems? Or know of a fix for this???

 

[rick 1955]

cjfling

Hello friend my tractor does the same thing with the white smoke on cold starts and runs rough is this a standard problem with these little tractors???

Thanks!!!

 

[cjfling]

Is your tractor loosing coolant? If so I would check the head gasket before much more use to make sure it's not blown and/or the head is cracked. Hopefully you catch the blown gasket before it does more serious damage. Good luck.

My 1700 ford cold starts with lots of white smoke runs rough for 2-4 minutes, after it warms up it runs great i have noticed the tail pipe flaper wet also. It starts good on warm or hot starts, just bad on cold. Do any of u guys have simular problems? Or know of a fix for this???

 

[cjfling]

Time to revived this thread. Tractors been sitting for about 11 months. Where I left off was suspecting the injectors, they tested like they were dirty, and instead of a clean/rebuild I bought re-manufactured ones. Sad to say that didn't work. When I picked back up with the tractor I noticed the coolant was all missing. I drained the oil and you guessed it, coolant was in the oil. Since the oil was cold I new not all of it was coming out so I fashioned a piece of wire to encourage more of it out the drain plug. Then started to dig in to accessing the head gasket. Pulled the injectors and manually turned the engine with a socket. Just about soaked a bystander in an oily/water mix. So coolant was in the head. I continued to turn it to get most of the mixture out. The cylinder closet to the fuel tank seemed to have the most coolant, but it was in both cylinders. Had to take the valve cover off, found no valve cover gasket or flange gasket. Pulled the rocker assembly and pulled the head. The piston closest to the fuel tank was pitted. Soaked up the rest of the coolant/oil mixture and could see on the head gasket on about four spot where there were a failures. A couple near the water jackets and a couple in other spots. What I could feel on the cylinder walls was fairly smooth. While turning the engine with a socket, there was one hard spot as the cylinder closest to the front of the engine was on the way up about half way. Went ahead and pulled the gasket off and looked around on the head more. Couldn't see any cracks so I've gone and ahead and ordered the right gaskets and a thermostat. I priced the head gasket at Hew Holland and it was $100 more than the one I found at compacttractorparts.com. I ordered the other parts from NH and the head gasket from CTP. Next I hope to clean up the head and inspect it more carefully.

Hope all the mechanics and DIYers out there who had been helping me come back out to play as I continue on!

 

[cjfling]

I've cleaned up the head and now have found cracks. I didn't have a camera, but hope to get a picture of it over the weekend. I'm not having much luck finding a reasonable priced head or anyone around my area of south Texas that can fix this one. Ebay had a reman one around $1400 and a third party website listed one for $1000 (but don't know if they have it in stock) both plus shipping. I have a call out on another. I'm getting to the point where I'm not sure if the tractor is worth that additional investment. I've been told of several ways to "repair" it... Bars stop leak, something that is supposed to be better than Bars, silver high temp spray paint, and applying JB Weld to the cracks with a needle. Anyone have any input on the repair, a place in my region that can fix it right, or a more moderately priced replacement head?

Thanks

 

[cjfling]

Here is the injector pump side
Yahoo! - 302 Found

The top of the block with the head bolts
Yahoo! - 302 Found

Bottom of the head
Yahoo! - 302 Found

Crack between valves
Yahoo! - 302 Found

Crack goes down the intake valve(left) just a bit, but not on the exhaust valve(right)
Yahoo! - 302 Found

Crack between water jacket and cylinder
http://flic.kr/p/rxkRif

Burnt valve on the left
http://flic.kr/p/rxkRps

 

[square1]

cj,
How many hours on that machine if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks

 

[Raw Dodge]

That's been leaking a long time, those connecting rods are very beefy,but still Id be concerned about hydrolocked damage.I think I'd pull the pan,and replace the piston that's been eaten away,and make sure the rod bearings weren't pitted from the chocolate milk oil/ coolant....if they are you'll need to pull the engine and go thru the entire thing.....whatever coolant was in there certainly was in bad shape,unless it looks like it was straight water or so weak there were no corrosion inhibitors left...looks to me like maybe previous owner was just adding water daily and avoiding dealing with the problem...I have a 1910, and have replaced the head gasket twice ,due to external coolant leaks...and once for an i frame rebuild...engine parts for these shiburu engines are very very expensive...just a single,piston can be 200.00 if you can still find one...

 

[cjfling]

cj,
How many hours on that machine if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks

I really don't know as I'm pretty sure that gauge is toast. I'll check next time I'm in front of it.