Newbie buying a NEW tractor- UT or CUT, that is the question

[Horridfiber]

Hi Guys-
Would really like some practical advice from real users and owners to sort out the info that is biased and being shelled out by the dealerships I meet with.
I own skidoos, ATV's, boats, 66 mustang'; I can drive standard, but have never owned or driven in a tractor.
I will buy new, no cab, front loader, possibly disc, tiller, and trailer.

Property & Requirements:

100 acres, rough, rocky, hilly, sloping, mixed bush, shallow soil, was an old farm's bush lot. Hardwood mostly with some smaller cedar and hemlock groves.
Some small ravines and cuts that are brutal even for an ATV to climb. Some small creeks and wet areas but mostly forest and dry.
This property is 3 miles away from my house. Tractor will be stored at the house, so needs to able to run the road.
We are having a bulldozer groom some of the old logging trails to provide access on the 100 acres, and flatten the trails for safer access.

Uses:

farm maple syrup- need to access at least 20 acres throughout the year- so traction in 3' of snow on the trails is crucial
firewood and logs- cutting firewood and pulling a few logs out for milling. Long term will just be firewood vs full-on logging
Deer food plotting- approx. 6-7 areas that are 1 to 2 acres in size, scattered throughout the property for food plots.
Would like to plant clovers, turnips, pumpkins, sunflowers etc. Food plots vs gardens, so hoping to only have a few attachments to own.

Tractor:

Choices so far: JD 5075e, CaseIH Farmall 75c, Kubota6060.

Questions:

1. What is more rugged long term to use Hydrostatic or synchro ?
2. Do I really need a Utility tractor, they seem like huge machines ? Would a compact tractor be too undersized ?
3. In Ontario , Canada we have to pay 13% tax on a tractor less than 60 HP- so often the Utility tractors often cost less in the final pricing.

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To TBN from Alabama. For 100 acres with that type property and what you want to do, I think that you would find a CUT too small fast.

 

[Horridfiber]

Can you explain why a CUT would be too small ?
Just trying to learn more here; not questioning your response.

Is it too small because it would take multiple trips to complete a single task; lack of traction, too slow to commute the 3 miles ?
Thanks

 

[DHD]

A UT will likely have more ground clearance than a CUT, and you have described some pretty rough terrain.
A UT would be more ruggedly built also.

 

[TripleR]

I can sure see the reason it's hard to decide as really a bigger CUT like an L6060 or its equivalent in Kioti, JD, Massey etc. and an M60/7060 or equivalent will work.

I use an L5740HSTC and M8540HDC, so I have pretty close to the range of tractors at which you are looking and there is often a lot of overlap in capabilities. I am using the L6060 because of your tax structure not because a smaller/less powerful unit won't work.

We love our 5740, but our UT is a smoother riding machine than the with more stability on slopes and crossing ditches streams etc. Of course it has more power, but it's not as big of an issue as the other things unless you are running a big cutter or other device off the PTO needing the power.

The added FEL strength really comes in handy when moving big objects, but it's not a make or break if you don't need it.

The hydraulic shuttle shift is very easy to use though not as easy as an HST, so while I prefer the HST it is only by a slight margin.

We will all have different opinions, but for a piece of land and the things you will be doing, I would "probably" go with a CUT, "but" I might change my mind if I actually spent some time on your land, sorry I couldn't be more definitive.

I regularly drive my 5740 four miles between farms and it's not a problem.

 

[Citydude]

Hi Guys- Would really like some practical advice from real users and owners to sort out the info that is biased and being shelled out by the dealerships I meet with. I own skidoos, ATV's, boats, 66 mustang'; I can drive standard, but have never owned or driven in a tractor. I will buy new, no cab, front loader, possibly disc, tiller, and trailer. Property & Requirements: 100 acres, rough, rocky, hilly, sloping, mixed bush, shallow soil, was an old farm's bush lot. Hardwood mostly with some smaller cedar and hemlock groves. Some small ravines and cuts that are brutal even for an ATV to climb. Some small creeks and wet areas but mostly forest and dry. This property is 3 miles away from my house. Tractor will be stored at the house, so needs to able to run the road. We are having a bulldozer groom some of the old logging trails to provide access on the 100 acres, and flatten the trails for safer access. Uses: farm maple syrup- need to access at least 20 acres throughout the year- so traction in 3' of snow on the trails is crucial firewood and logs- cutting firewood and pulling a few logs out for milling. Long term will just be firewood vs full-on logging Deer food plotting- approx. 6-7 areas that are 1 to 2 acres in size, scattered throughout the property for food plots. Would like to plant clovers, turnips, pumpkins, sunflowers etc. Food plots vs gardens, so hoping to only have a few attachments to own. Tractor: Choices so far: JD 5075e, CaseIH Farmall 75c, Kubota6060. Questions: 1. What is more rugged long term to use Hydrostatic or synchro ? 2. Do I really need a Utility tractor, they seem like huge machines ? Would a compact tractor be too undersized ? 3. In Ontario , Canada we have to pay 13% tax on a tractor less than 60 HP- so often the Utility tractors often cost less in the final pricing.

Are the tractors you listed your choices or the dealers choices?

 

[Horridfiber]

Dealers suggestions based upon my intended use.
I believe their choices are slightly influenced by spiffs, commissions, and what is in stock vs what would be ideal for me.

 

[Citydude]

Dealers suggestions based upon my intended use. I believe their choices are slightly influenced by spiffs, commissions, and what is in stock vs what would be ideal for me.

So what would be ideal for you?

 

[Deerherd]

First off welcome to TBN! I do pretty much what you are looking to do on my place so I think I can be of assistance!

For what you describe and the 13% savings you stated, get a utility tractor with a synchro or power shuttle, definitely R1 AG tires. I'm not aware of many 60+hp tractors with hydrostatic drive.

Since you really don't want to be trading it in after the first year anyways, buy a cab tractor to start. Just the thought of a dead of winter three mile road hike, work for untold hours and a three mile hike back makes me shiver violently!

Also you need a snow plow. I go "off road" a lot in the winter and navigating 3 feet of snow on a regular basis will get you one thing for sure, and that's stuck. I plow miles of trails in the winter. Did I mention you should really get a cab? ��



I plant about 20 acres of food plots a year, corn, soybeans, turnips, clover etc. Here is that same food plot I plow to in the above picture in the summer and about a month ago with 20+ deer in it.





Plowing, discing, and spraying round-up can be a dusty and hot plus who really wants to be breathing round-up? Who would want the comfort of an air conditioned filtered cab and who wants to make a three mile trip home in a downpour? Turn on the wipers and stereo and ride home with a huge grin on your face but turn down the air conditioning, it's getting a little chilly in here......

Utility tractor, color of your choosing but with a cab is my vote! Good luck in your search!

 

[Horridfiber]

Great Pics- Those deer are sure pounding the turnips.
Do you need a snow plow even with a bucket ? Just easier to push the snow with a plow vs push and then dump with the bucket.....

Ag tires or Industrial ?