Snow Blade and the wheels

   / Snow Blade and the wheels #42  
I see...someone got to it before guys.:) When we snooze, we loose, lol.
I mentioned to someone at Power Trac one time that I thought there was potential for them to make a 3pt version of their quick attach system and market it to all the unfortunate souls with conventional tractors. There's a similar unit called a "Delta Hook".
Delta Hook
 
   / Snow Blade and the wheels #43  
Yeah, definitely could be harmful to get pinched in there. The flexible skirting (like you said about) would be a nice way to go because of all the different directions this machine manipulates. All of the adjustment in the seat (front and back) makes it very nice.
One thing I've noticed on my 2001 PT425 with the factory seat and armrests is that I can get to a full turn in a place with great undulations in the ground and the rear of the armrests will hit the front of the engine compartment cover. Don't know if the geometry is different on the newer design PT425s or not. Just be wary of that if you decide to build a cab. Run it through all the possible turns lock-to-lock and run the front right tire up on a block while running the left rear up on a block to make it fully oscillate while fully turned to the right and left. And put the seat all the way back, too. You can then measure the clearances.

Also, its a possible pinch point, if, for some reason, you stick your fingers or hand back there while turning and going over uneven terrain.
 
   / Snow Blade and the wheels #44  
I'm thinking a metal frame with small clevis pins to drop through holes in the canopy. You could clip the pins from underneath to secure the frame. A solid windshield. It would have to clear the FEL when all the way up, yet also clear the joystick. The joystick might have to be re-bent to a different angle. Personally, I think I'd like the stick closer to the operator anyway. A cloth tent with vinyl windows for the left and right sides and back. And if I sewed 1" magnetic strips into the openings they'd grab the frame near the ROPS, that would work for doors. Maybe some magnets at the bottom to snap against the tub and back of the seat, too. Anyhow, just some thoughts.
 
   / Snow Blade and the wheels #45  
One could always wear battery operated socks or even a full 12 V heated suit like motorcyclists sometimes use.

Ken
 
   / Snow Blade and the wheels #46  
My uncle built a cab for his Ford that had pins. It did make it easier for attaching and detaching, for sure! I like the idea about the magnets. I forgot to say about the skirting I put in-between the seat and diamond plate (floor) of my Steiner; there were big gaps in that area around the hydraulic motor , so I put some heavy rubber matting in there and attached it with Velcro hook and look heavy duty grade. It works out great. For the wind shield (PT), I was thinking that the conventional style cabs you see on allot of road work machinery would solve the problem with the shifter. The windshields at the top are out past about 6", or so, from the bottom for the reason of clearing controls. Here is a link.Motor Graders
I'm thinking a metal frame with small clevis pins to drop through holes in the canopy. You could clip the pins from underneath to secure the frame. A solid windshield. It would have to clear the FEL when all the way up, yet also clear the joystick. The joystick might have to be re-bent to a different angle. Personally, I think I'd like the stick closer to the operator anyway. A cloth tent with vinyl windows for the left and right sides and back. And if I sewed 1" magnetic strips into the openings they'd grab the frame near the ROPS, that would work for doors. Maybe some magnets at the bottom to snap against the tub and back of the seat, too. Anyhow, just some thoughts.
 

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