My NX6010

[ishiboo]

It is obvious to anyone knows about hydraulics, but then they wouldn't need the video to assist... so I was just clarifying for people who didn't know, or clarify if it was a fitting I wasn't aware of. Didn't mean to offend.

Have you had a tilt link before and found you needed load checks? I'll be doing this project very soon, or at least a top link as I keep my implements parallel to the ground 99.99% of the time.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

It is obvious to anyone knows about hydraulics, but then they wouldn't need the video to assist... so I was just clarifying for people who didn't know, or clarify if it was a fitting I wasn't aware of. Didn't mean to offend.

Have you had a tilt link before and found you needed load checks? I'll be doing this project very soon, or at least a top link as I keep my implements parallel to the ground 99.99% of the time.

I made the video so everybody knows what sizes things are so they can easily duplicate a check valve set-up. I didn't make the video as a how-to.

I want anti-creep valves on the tilting cylinder for the same reason I have anti-creep valves on my top link cylinder: so junk stays put.

 

[ishiboo]

Wow, okay. I'll leave this thread alone so as not to further disturb your video making.

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

 

[DK35vince]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

I had a tilt cylinder without a check valve that leaked down and it was a huge PITA (especially with the brush mower on). So I get it.
I had enough and put top and tilt cylinders on with check valves 10 or 11 years ago and have had no leak down problems ever since.
I have recommended check valves ever since.

 

[s219]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

For sure, you don't want a check valve if there is a need to float one of the links, which is somewhat common for top link use (grading, bush hogs, etc). Can't think of reason why the side link would need to float, but there are probably some.

I haven't noticed any creep with my remote valves and top link setup that would matter on the timescale of tractor jobs. If I leave my tractor parked for several days with the box blade raised up, the top link will slowly creep. But I have never seen it moving while in use. Ultimately, I think it comes down to how precise the valve spools are.

 

[IslandTractor]

I had a tilt cylinder without a check valve that leaked down and it was a huge PITA (especially with the brush mower on). So I get it.
I had enough and put top and tilt cylinders on with check valves 10 or 11 years ago and have had no leak down problems ever since.
I have recommended check valves ever since.

Was your tilt cylinder defective? I imagine based on your assessment that it was a huge PITA that it leaked in "real time" and required constant adjustment or rework. I just don't have any cylinders on the tractor (FEL, topping lift) or backhoe that leak down fast enough to be noticed in a day. If a tilt cylinder leaks fast enough to cause problems, wouldn't that be evidence of a defect/wear???

 

[DK35vince]

Was your tilt cylinder defective? I imagine based on your assessment that it was a huge PITA that it leaked in "real time" and required constant adjustment or rework. I just don't have any cylinders on the tractor (FEL, topping lift) or backhoe that leak down fast enough to be noticed in a day. If a tilt cylinder leaks fast enough to cause problems, wouldn't that be evidence of a defect/wear???

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

 

[aczlan]

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

If the check valve fixed it, the problem was the remote on your tractor letting a little bit of fluid past the seals.

Aaron Z

 

[Threepoint]

I made the video so everybody knows what sizes things are so they can easily duplicate a check valve set-up. I didn't make the video as a how-to.

I want anti-creep valves on the tilting cylinder for the same reason I have anti-creep valves on my top link cylinder: so junk stays put.

Really appreciate you doing this, Eric. I haven't gotten around yet to adding hydraulic tilt, but intend to get serious about this soon. I, too, will want a check valve on the sidelink. Your Cat 2 3pt hitch has different dimensions than my Cat 1 at the link arms and lift arms, so the clevis-end requirements are different. But your video, fitting info and feedback on MIE's good service is nice to have if I end up having to put together my own set-up.