My NX6010

[IslandTractor]

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

That does sound like a major PITA but still seems also to possibly be caused by a defective cylinder. A good cylinder would not drift down even 1/2" in 15-20 minutes. I suppose adding a check valve would accomplish about the same thing as rebuilding or replacing the cylinder though for this type of use.

What I don't understand though is folks jumping directly to check valves on a new installation. It adds quite a bit of extra cost and leaves a vulnerable collection of piping etc on the cylinder that might snag something.

I've never rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder myself but I watched a demonstration at Rick Wallace's shop (I forget the TBN user name of the pro who did it). It took him about fifteen minutes. No idea what a hydraulic shop would charge for a rebuild but it is likely cheaper and quicker than adding a check valve.

 

[murphy1244]

Its usually the remote that leaks. That's the way mine works. Unplug your lines and see if it moves.

 

[DK35vince]

What I don't understand though is folks jumping directly to check valves on a new installation.

If the cylinder leaks down and you need to buy cylinders again (like I did) why not just put cylinders with check valves on in the first place and be done with it is what I recommend.
My check valves do not stick out far enough to cause a problem. I barely notice they are there.
Leak down on top/tilt cylinders is a fairly common problem on TBN. I have read about it multiple times here.
A 1 minute search I found this as an example Search Results - TractorByNet.com
Putting on check valves the first time might just save you unwanted/unnecessary issues later IMO.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I mocked up the cylinder as much as I could, snugging up what could be snugged up while leaving everything else loose before fitting the ram on my tractor out in the field.

 

[IslandTractor]

If the cylinder leaks down and you need to buy cylinders again (like I did) why not just put cylinders with check valves on in the first place and be done with it is what I recommend.
My check valves do not stick out far enough to cause a problem. I barely notice they are there.
Leak down on top/tilt cylinders is a fairly common problem on TBN. Search Results - TractorByNet.com
Putting on check valves the first time might just save you unwanted/unnecessary issues later IMO.

I understand your points. Still, as not everyone (probably a minority) of folks have problems with leak down it seems expensive "insurance" to get check valves from the start. I forget what they cost but I recall it adds at least $100 for each cylinder. If only 10% of people have problems with regular cylinders (not sure it is that high) then the cost/benefit seems poor. I'd love to see some real data rather than anecdotes. It just seems like decisions are made based on rumor more than anything else about this (and many other things) on TBN.

Also, I hadn't considered Murph's suggestion that perhaps it is the remote rather than the cylinder that is leaking?

 

[DK35vince]

Its usually the remote that leaks. That's the way mine works. Unplug your lines and see if it moves.

Don't need to, thanks.
I replaced the cylinder that leaked down with one that has a tilt cylinder that had a check valve 11 years ago that solved the problem.
I should have went with check valves in the first place and been done with it.

 

[94BULLITT]

Did you get the radio to work with your phone?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Did you get the radio to work with your phone?

No I did not. The tractor is back out in the field until it comes back for service or needs repair.

 

[s219]

Really, the only downsides to the check valve is the little added cost and the fact that it defeats using any types of float functions. To me the cost is a minor factor (considering how much we spend on remote valves, cylinders, etc) but the float function is a "go" or "no-go" decision.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Really, the only downsides to the check valve is the little added cost and the fact that it defeats using any types of float functions. To me the cost is a minor factor (considering how much we spend on remote valves, cylinders, etc) but the float function is a "go" or "no-go" decision.

Moreover, consider the increased functionality check valves offer when one has the top and tilt using two of the three rear valves, but an attachment needs two functions as well. Screw around with taking off the tilt ram, or simply disconnect the ram, let the check valves do their thing, and use the remote that was serving the tilt ram on the attachment?

Safety, and increased functionality.