Rotary Cutter ID'ing an old rotary mower

[markhart]

I was given an old 5' rotary mower that hasn't been used in 10-15 years. Probably 25 years old or so. I can't tell what brand it is. Maybe someone can ID it from the attached photos.

Other than changing the gear box oil and sharpening blades, is there suggested maintenance before giving it use?

Thanks!

Mark

 

[ovrszd]

I'd say that would be a good start. Then run it awhile and see what else shows up.

First modification it needs is a flexible top link setup. You see how the braces that run from the top link bracket back down to the deck are bent??? That's because this cutter wasn't built with any kind of flexibility. So when the tail wheel goes up the bracing has to be strong enough to lift the weight of the entire cutter plus your tractor's 3pt setup. Not good. That can be fixed very easily and should be addressed. Unless of course you are cutting a golf course.

 

[DT86]

Also check the u joints for play and grease them.


It looks like it says "HI-CO" and maybe "60L".

 

[ovrszd]

Also check the u joints for play and grease them.


It looks like it says "HI-CO" and maybe "60L".

I don't believe I've ever saw one like it. But then, there used to be a LOT of small companies building rotary cutters

 

[JRobyn]

No clue. But a nice Subaru!

- Jay

 

[aginn]

Slide the driveshaft apart and get some grease in the slip joint. Those things can get awful tight if there is any corrosion in the slip. And judging by those photos it is going to be tight.

 

[joecdeere]

It's a HI-CO, my dad had one years ago. Best I remember it was a regional brand. I would think blades and seals would be generic.

 

[markhart]

It's a HI-CO, my dad had one years ago. Best I remember it was a regional brand. I would think blades and seals would be generic.

I appreciate the suggestions. It is a HI-CO. I was getting confused and thinking the part that is probably "60L" was part of the brand. As I understand it, HI-Co was the original brand for Howse Implement Co. So it is a Howse. But it must be older than I thought. I suspect I will have to take it apart to find which blades are compatible, likely a generic will fit.

For the slip on the top link, I think I will just put a clevis joint where the top link connects to the cutter. The should give enough flex for the type of terrain I see.

 

[SPYDERLK]

For the slip on the top link, I think I will just put a clevis joint where the top link connects to the cutter. The should give enough flex for the type of terrain I see.

Could use a chain for the toplink..