So there is a roll pin that holds it onto the input shaft hidden under rust and grease. It pulled fairly easily once the pin was removed. And the dealer has the spring for $35 which is not too bad. However if I have to purchase 4 clutch plates at $20 each, that puts the clutch repair at more than I paid for the mower.
That big castle nut though... oh boy.
After using all the techniques I know as well as that interesting idea from SpyderLK, I got it to turn - 1/10 turn at a time, using a torch and 24" pipe wrench hit with a 5lb sledge. I had to rig up some impromptu clamps to hold it down using an old tractor axle and c-clamps (which are all now bent). Once it cools down at all, it seizes right back up.
3 hours later, the nut is only a quarter of the way off and I've had enough hammering, I think I'll go indoors and sit down and work on my swather carb instead!
It's coming to work tomorrow to be heated with a pair of cutting torches, hope it will get it hot enough that I can at least ditch the sledge.
It's getting more and more tempting to drill it for a pair of shear pins, slap the thing back on and purchase an splined slip clutch that mounts on the tractor PTO. But if I can torch that nut off I will soldier on.
JRobyn thanks for the info. I had heard from the old timers that this sort of clutch should be lubricated so that it can slip easily without damage, like a motorcycle clutch. So I felt confident pouring ATF all over to free them up :banghead: It did sound kind of stupid but I guess I'm stupid for believing it! The disks look like they are OK, just oily. If I ever get that stupid nut off, I'll clean them up in brake cleaner and they should grab enough to transmit the 35HP and maybe smoke off any remnant. I don't have big trees to mow, luckily.
who can twist anything to *smithereens, (*technical term). Use the copper based anti-seize, it's the most effective, when reassembling.
