Tractor Sizing Help with a Kubota purchase

[FatTireFarm]

Deerslayer,

How long have you had the 3901? Does the tractor regen regularly or sporadically? What happens if you shut it down in the middle of a regen?

 

[The Deerslayer]

Deerslayer,

How long have you had the 3901? Does the tractor regen regularly or sporadically? What happens if you shut it down in the middle of a regen?

I have only had it for a few weeks, so not enough hours on it to have it regen. But there are others on TBN who have not had any issues with the regen so hopefully they will chime in. It is not regular intervals; my understanding is that it will regen when it needs to based upon how much particulate collects in the DPF which is based upon how the tractor is used. Higher rpms=hotter=less particulate=less frequent regens. Figures I recall seeing here from others were like between 25 and 50 hours.

Like anything else, there are pros and cons to everything. I have also noticed that the engine runs much quieter than my L2250 and there is no appreciable exhaust smoke or smell(neither which bothered me before anyway)

If you haven't done so already, I would suggest you go to a dealer and try out an L and a B and see what you think. But beware...its kinda like going to look at a prospective puppy. Once you see it, you want to take it home with you.

 

[ovrszd]

If you haven't done so already, I would suggest you go to a dealer and try out an L and a B and see what you think. But beware...its kinda like going to look at a prospective puppy. Once you see it, you want to take it home with you.

That's why the successful dealers have a LOT of stock onhand. My nearby Kubota dealer currently has 25-30 new Kubotas on the lot and he's in a very low population area.

 

[gwstang]

Hi, I picked up a new L2501 little over a month ago and I am loving it. Plenty of power for what I do and I like the extra ground clearance and the loader. I have had a blast so far. No jerky hydraulics or any problems so far, at 10.5 hours.

 

[FatTireFarm]

Gwstang,

What kind of chores have you done or are planning to do with the L2501?

 

[gwstang]

Clearing off trails and taking care of my lengthy driveway with a 6' boxblade. Using a 5' finishing mower for the front fields (about 4 acres) then bush hogging the trails and other fields (about 10 acres). I have 71 acres total and lots of tornado damage from an EF4 back in 2011 and my old Ford 8N does not have an FEL (or 4 wheel drive) and I need to be able to get to the back side of the property for more work. I chose the smaller L2501 over the larger models because I can use the finishing mower around the house without destroying the lawn. My wife use to jump up and down when I would cut the lawn with the old 8N, as turning around would leave ruts. I like the R4 tires. I rebuilt the engine on the old Ford and it is still a good machine....but, The new tractor gets "sat" on a whole lot more now. Boy, if you want to see a red-head really get excited...just "accidentally" run over some of her bushes or roses with a mower. Sicked the danged chihuahuas on me

 

[FatTireFarm]

Ok, so I think I've found a good used 2012 L3800. I haven't seen it in person but plan to this weekend. It only has 70 hours on it and looks clean in the pictures. Does anyone know of a checklist that I can use to go over the tractor with? I wish I had someone with me who knows what to look for but it'll probably be just me. I'd like to know what problem areas to look for and how best to "test" the tractor. Any input would be appreciated!

 

[The Deerslayer]

Ok, so I think I've found a good used 2012 L3800. I haven't seen it in person but plan to this weekend. It only has 70 hours on it and looks clean in the pictures. Does anyone know of a checklist that I can use to go over the tractor with? I wish I had someone with me who knows what to look for but it'll probably be just me. I'd like to know what problem areas to look for and how best to "test" the tractor. Any input would be appreciated!

Could be a good find there. It should have received the initial 50 hour service, so ask to see the paperwork. Being that new and with such low hours it should be in excellent condition with minimal cosmetic wear. Check for any fluid leaks (engine, hoses, seals, etc...) Is it gear or HST? If gear, drive it through all the gears. If the owner can put an implement on the rear for you; raise and lower slowly to see if you will be able to live with the jerkiness (many can). Try out all directional functions of the FEL. Run the PTO. Engage and disengage the 4WD. Test each brake individually. Check all light functioning. Check zerk fittings to see if they have been greased.

I always like to at least ask why the person is selling it being so new. Find out if it still has any warranty left on it. I suspect others will chime in, but these are a few ideas. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Does the asking price seem reasonable as a starting point?

 

[Gafn]

It looks like you are looking at the L series - That is a good thing...

I have less land than you, and a small orchard. I started with the B series with a loader. After two years I had only 96 hours on the tractor, and that was all from mowing. The bucket was to small to do a lot with and can only lift around 500lbs. I found I took off the loader and never really made use of the B for much more than mowing... Tried tilling with it, low ground clearance required the removal of the MMM to do anything int he garden, and the 26 HP was fantastic as a mower, but int he garden, all that HP was wasted as the little B would just spin the tires. The brake pedal was above the hydro control, so there was no way to do precise work with the loader... etc..

I have since sold the B and bought a 35HP tractor. I made my first payment on it last week, and have already put 26 hours on it. With the weight it puts the HP to the ground, unlike the little B spinning the tires and diggin itself a hole. I was able to till the garden grade the drive way, plant more trees, and having a proper sized bucket that can lift 2000lbs, as well as the quick attachment system sure makes planting and watering the new trees a joy. I went with a finish cut mower to do the mowing(about 4 acres), 6 feet at a pass makes the yard work go fast. In fact you may want to reconsider mowing the large portion of your yard with a finish cut mower, keep the ZT for the close up work.

I am not bashing orange, or the B - it was a great tool, it started every time, and never gave me any issues at all. It was the first tractor I bought, and I made a mistake by going to small for my needs, good thing about the orange, I did not lose money on the tractor swap.

My suggestion is buy more tractor than you need, having a tractor that is a little bit larger is a much easier problem to live with than having a tractor that is just to dang small to get the job done.

 

[varmint]

We've settled in on an L3400, same as the L3800 with a bit less hp, and so far I am finding it a good compromise between size/weight and ease of getting around without destroying the ground. Soil compaction was a big issue with my wife, but on the other hand, another 1000 lbs of tractor on a little bigger frame would obviously be a plus for some functions. If you buy it at a fair price, you should be able to resell it and move on once you have more experience with you needs without taking much of a hit, at least that's been my experience so far. The L3800 is a handy machine for a lot of tasks, but small for others...

I didn't notice it mentioned, but look for a SSQA loader bucket- you'll be glad to have it. Rear remotes are handy, and I think you'll prefer HST if you do much loader work. Then there's the open station vs. cab issue, but since you'll be in the woods, maybe freezing your butt off in the winter is your fate?

One other thing to check is the functioning of the safety interlocks and hydraulics... lots of guys will just use the loader to lift the front of the tractor off the ground to demonstrate "strength" which is guess is valid. As Deerslayer mentioned, check the 3 point hitch with a heavy weight on it- the jerkiness problem doesn't show up without weight, and only when trying to slowly lower does it "jerk", which is not a problem for some folks, but is for others.