Safety chain regulations

[aczlan]

One benefit of the ones I linked to above is that you can take them off and move them closer to the trailer to shorten the effective length of the chain. They should be good up to a trailer up to 3500# (possibly 5000#?)

Aaron Z

 

[ozob2k]

I always use a clevis. Makes the chain any length you need without cutting. Never trusted hooks. Get good brand name clevis. Strength varies especially with the cheap China imports.

 

[dstig1]

I was always told the twisting method was the correct way to shorten trailer safety chains. Please show me where it says it is illegal or wrong? Curious....

 

[check]

I find NY requirement of "no welding of the chain after its manufacture" interesting. I take this to mean that the chain cannot be welded to the trailer? What about the style of hook used? Does the hook require some type of gate to prevent it from accidentally coming off? I am asking because the holes for the safety chains on my 2013 F150 are a bear to get the hooks on and off. Either the hook opening is too small or the hook is not deep enough to open or close the gate on the hook.

I have always had the same problem on my F150s. So, I just added a screw together chain-link hanging down from each of the two attachment points on my F150. Now they swing out and are easy to get at, and anything can hook on to them easily.

 

[aczlan]

I was always told the twisting method was the correct way to shorten trailer safety chains. Please show me where it says it is illegal or wrong? Curious....

The issue is that now you are adding twisting forces to the chain attachment point when under load (ie: in addition to holding onto the trailer the chain mount has to not twist either)
From another forum:

What do you suppose will happen when putting a "twisted" chain under load will do to the END points?
Basically the chain is GOING to attempt to unwrap all those twists. This in turn WILL add addition stress to the points to which the chain is anchored to.
In many cases the one chain link is simply welded to the tongue frame or in some cases one chain link is connected via a steel loop which is simply BUTT welded to the tongue frame.
The twisting motion of the chain unwrapping under a SUDDEN extreme load can potentially rip the chain right from the tongue or twist the BUTT weld of the steel loop.
Think of those balsa wood toy air planes which used a rubber band to power the prop. You twist the rubber band by turning the prop. Let the prop go and the rubber band now releases the stored up energy in the band.
The wound up rubber band is storing energy.
Winding the chain links ALSO is storing energy (you just can not feel the energy (torque) when not under load).
A straight chain can not store energy, it only transfers the load in a straight line.

Aaron Z

 

[Cranky]

The issue is that now you are adding twisting forces to the chain attachment point when under load (ie: in addition to holding onto the trailer the chain mount has to not twist either)
From another forum:


Aaron Z

I am not questioning you or doubting you, but the last few times I have rented trailers from U-Haul, the chains seem to double back on themselves because they have been twisted so much. I have rented from several locations, and they all did it.

 

[bcp]

I am not questioning you or doubting you, but the last few times I have rented trailers from U-Haul, the chains seem to double back on themselves because they have been twisted so much. I have rented from several locations, and they all did it.

About halfway down the page:
U-Haul: Tips: Trailer User Instructions

"Control slack by hooking the chain back to itself or by twisting the links to shorten chain."

Bruce

 

[pat32rf]

I once had a DOT friend point out that my "quick links" had no SWL stamping and might get me in trouble during an inspection. I then switched to hanging a good sized clevis from my safety chain holes on the hitch....

 

[Capt Dan]

I once had a DOT friend point out that my "quick links" had no SWL stamping and might get me in trouble during an inspection. I then switched to hanging a good sized clevis from my safety chain holes on the hitch....

I'm glad you posted this. I need to replace safety chains on my single axle and keep thinking of using quick links instead of a double clevis link. I haven't ever seen a quick link rated high enough (for me) to use. I hate how some advertise breaking strength or (rated capacity) but make no mention of working load limit (WLL).

I will now go with a G70 Double Clevis Link and feel better. Thanks

I still need to redo the chains on my tandem axle because someone welded the chain links on and I know that is not allowed.

 

[Capt Dan]

I need to add something I heard recently about trailers. It may have been here or another forum I read.

They said that there auto insurance doesn't cover anything once the trailer comes loose from your vehicle. I think they were talking about Illinois but I don't know why that would matter. Once it comes loose you would only have coverage if you had the trailer insured. I am worried they were talking liability.

So if my trailer got loose and hit a parked car I would be stuck for the damages without any insurance coverage.

Anybody have any knowledge on this? One of the reasons I have an umbrella insurance policy, but even that might not help.

Dan