Cub Cadet RZT 50 - Ongoing Reviews

[Rfisher7381]

No question there, I went out yesterday and bought a couple quarts of synthetic 20W50 and a new 47" belt. I'm goint to try that on Saturday before I even think about tearing it apart. I just have not seen a single instance of someone taking one of these apart and changing out the motor/pump/thrust bearing inside and having it work. It looks like I could replace most of the hydraulic "guts" for around $200 or so instead of $500 for a new unit. I really don't see what else would be failing in it with it losing power after a few minutes, all the gears, seals and shafts are good. I would change out the filters and such if I went inside, just looking for a success story somewhere to make me feel better about trying. The unit doesn't look that complicated to dissasemble.

"The unit doesn't look that complicated to dissasemble." my problem has always been the reassembly

 

[BukitCase]

If you haven't suffered thru the drive belt change yet, here's my experience -

First of all, that "Mythical" 1/2" square hole they tell you to put a 1/2" breaker bar into, doesn't exist on mine. Looked all over, they also claim one's on the tensioner for the deck - don't remember which was which, but one doesn't exist at all and the other one is there, half covered up by a pulley. PHHHHT!!!?!

Here's what I did, and the tool is now in a special drawer with all the other "special" tools for the next time I need it (which may be soon - my RZT's starting to pull left and has a hard time going uphill)

HTH... Steve

 

[KBEAT]

Yeah, I know what you mean with the idlers. I was going to do it this weekend but could'nt wait so I tore into it last night. The deck belt i'm used to, not a big deal. The drive belt is another story, theres not enough room there to fit any wrench in or my hands. Getting the transmission out is pretty easy, the fluid drained quick and I filled it back up with synthetic 20W50, no problem going through the fill hole like some others had commented. Oil was kinda dark but nothing else obvious (Not sure how it looked when it went in, the synthetic I used was purple). Went to put the new "Shorter" drive belt on and found that the post in here that lists the belt as 47.7" long is wrong, it's 57.7" long, so my new belt has to go back today. I'll find out later how she works with the new juice and belt. Heres hoping , be nice if that takes care of it.

 

[BukitCase]

KBEAT, any update?

My RZT50 is tryin' to tell me it's time for another belt, but it's a bit different this time, I'm hoping it's NOT the Hydro. I had one go out early on, but fortunately it was still under warranty. Next time it'$ gonna HURT

Any "war stories", hints, etc, might be helpful, thanks... Steve

 

[robbiefritz]

Great thread folks! I am going to look at a Cub Cadet RZT 50VT with a 24hp B&S engine. They note that it has approximately 300 hrs on it. Asking price is $1800 which from what I seem to gather from other sites is high for the hours.

Any thoughts on cost as well as what to look for is appreciated.

 

[BukitCase]

That does seem high, especially with the B&S engine - one of the main reasons I bought mine (new) was the Kawasaki engine - I have an older JD with a 14 horse Kawasaki and it's been bullet-proof, so far same with the 22 horse Kawi twin... Steve

 

[robbiefritz]

That does seem high, especially with the B&S engine - one of the main reasons I bought mine (new) was the Kawasaki engine - I have an older JD with a 14 horse Kawasiki and it's been bullet-proof, so far same with the 22 horse Kawi twin... Steve

Thanks. That confirms what I have been reading elsewhere. Well I will go look at it and see. I have seen them going for half as much with the BS.