Post frame building materials list, am I missing anything?

[STx]

I'm trying to work out materials cost for a 48 x 60 post frame building buying myself vs. getting a kit. Here's what I've come up with, am I forgetting anything? This is just for the frame and roof/walls. I plan to bookshelf the walls with 2x8 and then add 2x4 outside with an external 2x6 grade board so that I have a deeper insulation cavity and still have an easy way to finish the inside.

Posts will be on a 12' spacing, trusses spaced at 8'.

Thanks for the help!

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm not going to go through all the numbers, but just glancing at what you have there on your list, your roof purlins caught my eye. If your trusses are 8 feet apart, you are going to want 2x6x16 on their edge at a minimum. Since you are not lining your trusses up with your posts, you need to make sure your beam that supports the trusses between the posts is a minimum of two 2x12's and that they are resting on a notch cut into the post, not bolted to the sides of the post. If it was me, I would set the trusses on top of the posts and use 2x10x24's on edge for my roof purlins every four feet.

How tall are your walls going to be? Was that a typo on using 24 foot long posts?

I don't know what you mean by bookshelf the walls with 2x8's?

Are girts the same as wall purlins? If so, I like to have each purlin connect to three posts and stagger my ends. Since your posts are going to be 12 feet apart, I would make sure my purlins where 24 ft long. With a 12 foot span, I would use 2x6's.

Are you going to pour a concrete floor at some point? For the grade board, or bottom purlin, I like to bury part of it into the ground to keep critters out. You want the bottom of your metal to be above grade so it doesn't rust, and then some exposed wood before the dirt. I would use 2x10's if it was mine and I was not going to pour concrete.

 

[rogerius]

Any material for braces?
Any cement, bars for pole footing?
Doors, windows?
Carriage bolts?

 

[STx]

I'm not going to go through all the numbers, but just glancing at what you have there on your list, your roof purlins caught my eye. If your trusses are 8 feet apart, you are going to want 2x6x16 on their edge at a minimum. Since you are not lining your trusses up with your posts, you need to make sure your beam that supports the trusses between the posts is a minimum of two 2x12's and that they are resting on a notch cut into the post, not bolted to the sides of the post. If it was me, I would set the trusses on top of the posts and use 2x10x24's on edge for my roof purlins every four feet.

How tall are your walls going to be? Was that a typo on using 24 foot long posts?

I don't know what you mean by bookshelf the walls with 2x8's?

Are girts the same as wall purlins? If so, I like to have each purlin connect to three posts and stagger my ends. Since your posts are going to be 12 feet apart, I would make sure my purlins where 24 ft long. With a 12 foot span, I would use 2x6's.

Are you going to pour a concrete floor at some point? For the grade board, or bottom purlin, I like to bury part of it into the ground to keep critters out. You want the bottom of your metal to be above grade so it doesn't rust, and then some exposed wood before the dirt. I would use 2x10's if it was mine and I was not going to pour concrete.

Walls are going to be 18' at the eaves, we might put a residence in here and if we do, wife will want 2 floors and 9' ceilings, so...

I planned 2 2x12 truss supports.

The girts (wall purlins) are going to be put in between the posts rather than outside them and turned flat instead of on edge. Using 2x8, I'll go 1.5" past the outside of the post (which is why I need the 2x4 to build the post out) so that I have a larger insulation cavity with fewer/smaller thermal breaks.

There will be a concrete floor, 5", 4000 PSI concrete that will be poured after the posts are set and the grade board is installed (using it as a form) but before the rest of the construction happens. I'm going to be installing a lift and I don't like rolling around in the dirt. The building is going to be insulated and conditioned, I'm getting old and don't like the extreme hot or cold as much as I used to.

I could put the trusses on the posts, I haven't spoken with the truss factory yet.

 

[STx]

Any material for braces?
Any cement, bars for pole footing?
Doors, windows?
Carriage bolts?

Braces as in?

I know I'll need footings, hadn't really calculated that since we'll be pouring a slab and I was doing my concrete costs separately.

Same thing for doors/windows, I have costs for them but their in a separate calculation.

Carriage bolts I do indeed need to put things together. And nails. I need to add those in, they add up quickly, kind of like the screws.

 

[rogerius]

Braces as in?

I know I'll need footings, hadn't really calculated that since we'll be pouring a slab and I was doing my concrete costs separately.

Same thing for doors/windows, I have costs for them but their in a separate calculation.

Carriage bolts I do indeed need to put things together. And nails. I need to add those in, they add up quickly, kind of like the screws.

There are few types of braces (bracing) in a pole barn; please see link: Truss Bracing » Roof Truss Bracing » Truss Brackets

 

[JimRB]

I put the bottom 2x6 at grade or a wee bit below. 19 years later I am removing those rotten and termite eaten boards and replacing that area with concrete. I do not know if you can easily find ground contact pressure treated 2x6 but the .25 or remotely possible .40 I used did not work out well. Maybe .60 treated would have survived.

http://www.americanpoleandtimber.com/pdf/treated_wood_specguide.pdf

If you weren't going up so high I would just do regular framing between the posts. Bottom plate on concrete and double top plates with 2x6 studs. That idea does not work out so swell with 18' walls. No more wood in the dirt besides the .6o treated 6x6 for me with any other projects. Fixing termite and rotten wood is a huge pain.

 

[boggen]

draw up a blue print, even if it is just on grid paper and use of some markers / pencils.

most cheap "computer programs" at local electronics stores, that deal with say building a house/shed would give you a good print out of materials.

have you actually called out to places that sell kits? and gotten a price?
i actually haven't done it myself, but have you tried menards, and other places, generally they have a computer program they can pop up and fill in some information for smaller sheds. not sure about larger ones.

have you contacted a local "carpenter" that has experience dealing with building homes/sheds. 2 to 3 man team can make things go so much more quicker and easier.

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i see a lot of lumber, but unsure how much of it you have counted as bad lumber or not. from knots to bad edges to splits, to being warp'ed badly.
--not sure if you counted for extra bracing lumber. that might be needed / used up as things go up.
--not sure if you have counted for "scrap lumber" that will be needed, to toss under lumber once it is delivered. so it does not warp badly. --not sure if you have counted for corner bracing or not.
--along with extra lumber around door ways / windows.
--are you adding enough lumber for "out of aligned posts"
--are you ensuring enough overlap in certain areas?
--are you adding enough length to posts. so once you get them all set, you can come back and whack the tops off of them to accurately get them all level with each other?

i see a lot of screws vs nails. nails bend and give/take some. if ya bent a screw it would break in half.

screws through metal siding, maybe just me and not knowing any better. but nails only. screws dance and scratch and screws much easier to sink them in past point you want them to be.

there be times when a "nail gun" can be handy, vs the old "nail apron" wrapped around waste, with a gold old hammer in hand. vs trying to deal with screws and a drill. some times i prefer a cheap CORDED drill (very light weight) vs trying to deal with a battery operated drill, more so with over head work... granted power cables can be a pain in rump.

============
ceiling = highest amount of R value you need for insulation vs walls.

with notation of insulation, it almost sounds for certain there will be a concrete floor. so questioning need for posts going down below grade.

 

[Arc weld]

I think you're missing several things compared to what is being used to build my pole shed. You need a membrane under the roof to prevent condensation, house wrap under the metal siding, foam closures on ridge and roof, gable vents, concrete for bottom of post holes and probably other stuff as well. I think one of the sites on pole buildings has a checklist of everything you need. The biggest thing though is to make sure what is required by the county you live in. If it's not a farm there's usually different standards than if it is a farm. Do you need engineered drawings, truss spacing, hole depth, inspections during building, etc.

 

[STx]

I think you're missing several things compared to what is being used to build my pole shed. You need a membrane under the roof to prevent condensation, house wrap under the metal siding, foam closures on ridge and roof, gable vents, concrete for bottom of post holes and probably other stuff as well. I think one of the sites on pole buildings has a checklist of everything you need. The biggest thing though is to make sure what is required by the county you live in. If it's not a farm there's usually different standards than if it is a farm. Do you need engineered drawings, truss spacing, hole depth, inspections during building, etc.

It's going to get spray foam insulation so that handles the vapor barrier, that's why the membrane and house wrap is left out.

There are no permits or inspections where we're building.

I'm going to have makeup and exhaust fans for when I'm welding in there but otherwise, it's going to be conditioned space so I don't want my expensive hot/cold air venting out the gables and ridge.