cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder

   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #1  

farm boy00

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Jul 17, 2014
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Location
Howard City, MI
Tractor
John Deere M&MT, Case 1030 comfort king, Sears ST16, Craftsmen 6000, homemade articulation mini-loader
I'm looking to buy 2- 1"×36" or 48" hydraulic cylinders. These will be for a homemade loader that be estimated for about 500lb at the high side. Does anyone know where to get these on the cheap side. No luck on craigslist eBay and i couldn't find them on surplus center
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #2  
That's an oddball size. Try 1.5" or 1.75". Also, for the size of loader that would "fit" on your mower 48" is way too much stroke length.
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #3  
Are you talking about the rod diameter of the cylinder rather than the bore size? Probably would have to be a single acting cylinder if that's the bore size.
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Are you talking about the rod diameter of the cylinder rather than the bore size? Probably would have to be a single acting cylinder if that's the bore size.

Rod size
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #5  
Why so long?
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#6  
It can be 36 or 48 I'm just guessing off of pictures of Google. What would you guys suggest
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #7  
I agree, thats pretty long for a loader cylinder. I think you need to woek out the geometry a little better. Use a shorter cylinder with a larger bore to get the same lift force. Most loader cylinders are in the 20-24" range.

Trying to make a 48" cylinder work with a 1" rod I forsee you having issues bending rods alot
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #8  
I suggest you build the sub frame and boom first. Then raise and lower it by hand to get your retracted and extended overall lengths (don't forget about the distance taken up by mounting tabs). A 3/4" rod diameter is what most FEL's employ.
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I suggest you build the sub frame and boom first. Then raise and lower it by hand to get your retracted and extended overall lengths (don't forget about the distance taken up by mounting tabs). A 3/4" rod diameter is what most FEL's employ.

We know this already. We are going to build fake cylinders first but I'm just trying to get a rough price of everything
 
   / cheapest place to get 1"×36" or 48" cylinder #10  
You don't need to build "fake" cylinders. Surplus Center lists all the dimensions for each cyl they sell. You'll find that the hydraulics is by far the most expensive part of the project, excepting your time of course. Hoses, quick connects, adapters, fittings, joystick, and in your case a pump. Just off the top of my head I'd say $700 for decent hydraulics.
 

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