ford 1510 three point repair

[foster1]

So I was recently having problems with my 3 point hitch on my ford 1510. It was not working at all, or very erratically.
Changed fluid and filter with correct parts.
Took out the speed control knob assembly for the 3 point, and changed the seal on the large cylinder behind that knob. The old seal was non deteriorated.

This made the three point work, but it seems to have a delay in response. When I lift the handle it may take 5 seconds the raise or sometimes a minute or two before it responds.

Could this be in the valves behind the handle? I didn't get into these yet as I couldn't get the large nuts, and large flat head nut to break free. Or is it this not a likely place to dig into?

 

[Fawken]

Could be your pump. Could also be the valve which acts as both a position control valve and a pressure relief valve. That valve is kinda gnarly if you're not experienced in hydraulics. Not sure which large nuts you are referencing. Most models have two facing the rear which are actually threaded caps. One is the pressure relief ball valve with a ball, spring and shims. The other is for reading the pressure with a gauge. You might want to clean the filter and change the hydraulic fluid before you get into all that. You might also use it for a bit and see if there is air in the lines that can work itself out. What does the hydraulic fluid look like?

 

[Btown]

Do you have a loader on the tractor? How is the loader behaving. I'm not sure if the 1510 was like my 1700 it had a metal screen on the rear axle that would clog and the hydraulics would not work.

 

[foster1]

Could be your pump. Could also be the valve which acts as both a position control valve and a pressure relief valve. That valve is kinda gnarly if you're not experienced in hydraulics. Not sure which large nuts you are referencing. Most models have two facing the rear which are actually threaded caps. One is the pressure relief ball valve with a ball, spring and shims. The other is for reading the pressure with a gauge. You might want to clean the filter and change the hydraulic fluid before you get into all that. You might also use it for a bit and see if there is air in the lines that can work itself out. What does the hydraulic fluid look like?

Hydraulic fluid and filter are both brand new, and I used the ford 134 fluid.
It is the threaded caps that I have not removed yet, I did remove the valve to inspect and clean, but couldn't get the caps to budge to get any deeper into the unit.
Decided would replace the piston seal behind the speed knob and see if that fixxed the problems.

 

[foster1]

Well have
1. changed fluid and filter
2. replaced man cylinder seal (behind the speed control knob)
This got the hitch to work pretty good for several hours, then tonight the hitch dropped and would not raise at all.

so I took the line off of the hydraulic pump, started the tractor. A good amount of fluid came flowing out of the pump (about half gallon in 5 seconds)

SO I believe the only thing left to check/repair is the control valve. Looking on the parts diagram it doesn't seem to hard to take apart and replace the o rings. Once I get past the plugs I'll be set.

One of the plugs has a flat blade on it, rather than a traditional hex cap. Any tips on what to use to get it to break free? my biggest screwdriver fits it nice, But I can't get enough torque to twist it.

Hoping an impact gun will get the other plugs to break free.

 

[Fawken]

If those caps are facing to the back, you do not need to take them off to remove the control valve. Also, just pumping fluid without a load is no test for the pump. You need a gauge for that. Make sure you have good O-rings in the lift cylinder head and clean the ball and seat in the drop speed control valve.