How to reset old bottom plow
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dieselscout80
Veteran Member
Drive the shear bolt out and the lift the plow with 3pt and insert new shear bolt.
Mendonsy
Veteran Member
That appears to be an OLD International Harvester plow (late 50's as I recall). If I remember correctly that one was supposed to be reset by gravity when it was raised out of the ground. The reset mechanism in that one is probably rusty so it may take some work to get it to reset the way it should. Even when they were new they usually had to be reset by putting a bit of weight on it and backing up until the bottom flipped back into place.
bindian
Super Member
Backup first, with the plow on the ground............this will reset it...............they follow advice above.
hugs, Brandi
Many thanks, all.
I was about to post "There is no shear bolt," but now I am doubting myself. I did try backing up with it on the ground, with no effect. Will keep working on it.
Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of the mechanism on the tripped side. Which is the shear bolt (if there is one)?
I was about to post "There is no shear bolt," but now I am doubting myself. I did try backing up with it on the ground, with no effect. Will keep working on it.
Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of the mechanism on the tripped side. Which is the shear bolt (if there is one)?
jeff9366
Super Star Member
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- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
You have a trip plow. There is no shear bolt.
I recently cleaned out the trip mech on my Ford Series 101 plow. Here is the thread with photos: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...p-mechanism-ford-series-101-a.html?highlight=
After years of sitting in the rain and collecting dust when in use, greasing now is unlikely to do any good. You need to take trip mech apart and use a nylon or wire brush to clean, soak with PB Blaster spray solvent, then grease.
Plow trip mechanisms are all similar. Cleaning both mechs is a 90 minute job for an experienced mechanic. Allow three hours doing it yourself.
I recently cleaned out the trip mech on my Ford Series 101 plow. Here is the thread with photos: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...p-mechanism-ford-series-101-a.html?highlight=
After years of sitting in the rain and collecting dust when in use, greasing now is unlikely to do any good. You need to take trip mech apart and use a nylon or wire brush to clean, soak with PB Blaster spray solvent, then grease.
Plow trip mechanisms are all similar. Cleaning both mechs is a 90 minute job for an experienced mechanic. Allow three hours doing it yourself.
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gwdixon
Elite Member
Have to agree with jeff9366.
Your best bet is to break down the mechanism and give it a good cleaning. Then grease it at all pivot points, whether there is a Zerk or not. Then reassemble and grease the Zerks (is so equipped) every couple of uses.
I broke down an old Ford 101 and the grease was old, dirty, and solid. It prevented proper functioning. Here are a couple of photos from the 101 manual to give you a general idea how the mechanism works. Yours may be similar.
Your best bet is to break down the mechanism and give it a good cleaning. Then grease it at all pivot points, whether there is a Zerk or not. Then reassemble and grease the Zerks (is so equipped) every couple of uses.
I broke down an old Ford 101 and the grease was old, dirty, and solid. It prevented proper functioning. Here are a couple of photos from the 101 manual to give you a general idea how the mechanism works. Yours may be similar.
Great information, all. Many thanks.
Given that the frame is welded together, I assume the first step it is to remove what the Ford manual calls the "beam pivot bolt," which in this case is held on by a castle nut. Removing rusted old nuts is not my strength, especially not 1.5" ones. I bent a cheater bar last night, sprayed it twice with a lot of PB Blaster, waited 24 hours, all to no avail. Next stop is probably a torch on the castle nut, right?
Or am I heading in the wrong direction completely?
Given that the frame is welded together, I assume the first step it is to remove what the Ford manual calls the "beam pivot bolt," which in this case is held on by a castle nut. Removing rusted old nuts is not my strength, especially not 1.5" ones. I bent a cheater bar last night, sprayed it twice with a lot of PB Blaster, waited 24 hours, all to no avail. Next stop is probably a torch on the castle nut, right?
Or am I heading in the wrong direction completely?
Mendonsy
Veteran Member
Yeah, some heat will certainly make it easier. An impact wrench helps also.
gwdixon
Elite Member
Mendosy has it right. Heat will do wonders - if you can get the nut to cherry red it should come off. Combined with a GOOD impact wrench with plenty of pressure (150 psi) will almost surely work. Unfortunately, a 1.5" impact socket is pretty expensive.
You have done about as much as you can to break the nuts loose. Penetrating oil (I prefer Ed's Red) can only do so much. The bolt and nut may be one as old as it is. If you have a torch then cutting it off is an option...that is what I ended up doing.
Be sure to replace all nuts and bolts with new if possible...grade 5 or 8. A large castle nut with cotter pin bolt may not be easy to find.
