aeblank
Veteran Member
So I've been pondering a diverter vs. 3rd function and how to mount it.
At first, I was 3rd function all the way. At $900 from Kubota, it's pretty steep.
A diverter valve (like JJ has suggested) at $150 sounds pretty good. Add some hoses, misc. wiring. Maybe $300 or $350 out the door.
In addition to the cost, the hydraulic capacities that Mtn View pointed out have me pondering.
So at this point, I'm not sure if I can imagine having enough coordination to run a loader in 2 directions and a grapple open/close. More than likely, it'll be one item at a time. So why not save the $. I have a parker store about 1/2 mile from work, so I can do hoses easily. I can probably get them to give me some scraps so that I can route them and get them the RIGHT length. I have wire, I can handle that. Put a connector in where the hydraulic QDs are, so I can remove the loader. Not sure about what kind of switch I'd want yet, but that's easy enough. Likely a button on top of my existing loader knob. Or, I had pondered a floor/foot switch, like an old-school chevy headlight dimmer switch.
I guess at the end of the day, I'm looking for installation pictures. I saw KennyDs pictures, on the right loader arm. Seems reasonable. I had envisioned mounting it on the loader cross member. I'd have to tap the feed off of the steel lines, then cap off the steel line that goes to the far cylinder. Somehow I'd like to run the new lines as OEM as I can, behind the guard or *something*. Maybe put the grapple QDs hard plumbed right off the diverter block.
Thoughts?
At first, I was 3rd function all the way. At $900 from Kubota, it's pretty steep.
A diverter valve (like JJ has suggested) at $150 sounds pretty good. Add some hoses, misc. wiring. Maybe $300 or $350 out the door.
In addition to the cost, the hydraulic capacities that Mtn View pointed out have me pondering.
So at this point, I'm not sure if I can imagine having enough coordination to run a loader in 2 directions and a grapple open/close. More than likely, it'll be one item at a time. So why not save the $. I have a parker store about 1/2 mile from work, so I can do hoses easily. I can probably get them to give me some scraps so that I can route them and get them the RIGHT length. I have wire, I can handle that. Put a connector in where the hydraulic QDs are, so I can remove the loader. Not sure about what kind of switch I'd want yet, but that's easy enough. Likely a button on top of my existing loader knob. Or, I had pondered a floor/foot switch, like an old-school chevy headlight dimmer switch.
I guess at the end of the day, I'm looking for installation pictures. I saw KennyDs pictures, on the right loader arm. Seems reasonable. I had envisioned mounting it on the loader cross member. I'd have to tap the feed off of the steel lines, then cap off the steel line that goes to the far cylinder. Somehow I'd like to run the new lines as OEM as I can, behind the guard or *something*. Maybe put the grapple QDs hard plumbed right off the diverter block.
Thoughts?