Diverter - Mounting
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BukitCase
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If you need hoses to run parallel side by side, only way I know to do that (on the valves I've played with) is (as suggested) use these
6400-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male
Followed by these
6500-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x 1/2" JIC Female Swivel 90°
Or the 45 degree version if that works better for you -
If you need to run hoses OTHER than that (like inline with a pair of ports), they will probably need to be "over/under" - if so, do NOT bother with the "long" version of ORB/JIC 90's - they won't clear each other. instead, you'd need one of each of these per pair of ports - #6801 and #6801LL
6801-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male 90°
SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Extra Long Elbow
A lot of the time it's simpler to just use the straight ORB/JIC adapters and whatever JIC hardware gets you aimed the way you need - plus, with swivel fittings it's easier to plumb at ODD angles.
HTH... Steve
BTW, some of those links are specific to #8 fittings, DHH has changed parts of their site. Be sure what sizes YOU need before you order.
6400-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male
Followed by these
6500-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x 1/2" JIC Female Swivel 90°
Or the 45 degree version if that works better for you -
If you need to run hoses OTHER than that (like inline with a pair of ports), they will probably need to be "over/under" - if so, do NOT bother with the "long" version of ORB/JIC 90's - they won't clear each other. instead, you'd need one of each of these per pair of ports - #6801 and #6801LL
6801-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male 90°
SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Extra Long Elbow
A lot of the time it's simpler to just use the straight ORB/JIC adapters and whatever JIC hardware gets you aimed the way you need - plus, with swivel fittings it's easier to plumb at ODD angles.
HTH... Steve
BTW, some of those links are specific to #8 fittings, DHH has changed parts of their site. Be sure what sizes YOU need before you order.
Yeah. Then add in sweep 90 fittings and extended sweep 90 fittings.
I recall going though books of fittings (faster than the internet) from Parker, weatherhead, brennan, etc. trying to get from A to B "elegantly". Not everyone makes every fitting. Then when you're changing sizes that adds another level of complexity. Custom coolers, custom reservoirs and on and on.
Thanks for the links. Good stuff.
I recall going though books of fittings (faster than the internet) from Parker, weatherhead, brennan, etc. trying to get from A to B "elegantly". Not everyone makes every fitting. Then when you're changing sizes that adds another level of complexity. Custom coolers, custom reservoirs and on and on.
Thanks for the links. Good stuff.
MtnViewRanch
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It is, sort of like the same thing, but only different. Different manufacturer and the ports are 1/8" closer together. Makes things much more difficult to work with.
Can anyone tell me (on my LA724 loader) what fitting this is?
I *assume* it's a 3/8" JIC (the wrench size lines up).
Also planning on 1/4" hose for my diverter, which will be running a grapple.
Is that good, or should I do 3/8" for some reason? I only expect to run the grapple.
I *assume* it's a 3/8" JIC (the wrench size lines up).
Also planning on 1/4" hose for my diverter, which will be running a grapple.
Is that good, or should I do 3/8" for some reason? I only expect to run the grapple.
BukitCase
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Looks like a swept 90* JIC to me, but with the wrench in the way I can't see the threads -
1/4 vs.3/8 - things will move nearly twice as fast, but with a grapple that's not usually a GOOD thing -
Other side of that coin - I was planning on 1/4" hoses for my double selector (grapple and a few other things, all of which are better off slow) - but I make up my own hoses to get exact lengths I need (and to minimize trips to town) - The intention was to use 1/4 hose with 3/8 JIC's so the anchor points would be stronger, but when I priced the difference between 1/4-1/4 and 1/4-3/8 in the re-usable fittings I use, the 1/4-3/8 fittings were about $10 more EACH.
That added up to $80 extra (4 hoses, both ends) so I will most likely just use all 3/8.
That difference may NOT be the case with store-bought crimped hoses, but you might wanna ASK first just to avoid surprises... Steve
1/4 vs.3/8 - things will move nearly twice as fast, but with a grapple that's not usually a GOOD thing -
Other side of that coin - I was planning on 1/4" hoses for my double selector (grapple and a few other things, all of which are better off slow) - but I make up my own hoses to get exact lengths I need (and to minimize trips to town) - The intention was to use 1/4 hose with 3/8 JIC's so the anchor points would be stronger, but when I priced the difference between 1/4-1/4 and 1/4-3/8 in the re-usable fittings I use, the 1/4-3/8 fittings were about $10 more EACH.
That added up to $80 extra (4 hoses, both ends) so I will most likely just use all 3/8.
That difference may NOT be the case with store-bought crimped hoses, but you might wanna ASK first just to avoid surprises... Steve
The fitting behind it is identical. I just wasn't sure if it was 37 degree JIC or if there was some other type that it would be.
I, too, am going 3/8" everything. Though it depends on what the grapple ends up being. If it's 1/4", then that hose end/bulkhead combo will also be 1/4" as will the QDs.
I was going to price the same hose in a 3/8" as well, just cause. Since its a diverter, too much speed shouldn't be too bad, though I want it "proportional" to the loader. Also, often times one can tap out the one end of a 90 degree fitting and thread in a plug with a hole drilled in it. Little more crude than an adjustable flow control, but it works.
I, too, am going 3/8" everything. Though it depends on what the grapple ends up being. If it's 1/4", then that hose end/bulkhead combo will also be 1/4" as will the QDs.
I was going to price the same hose in a 3/8" as well, just cause. Since its a diverter, too much speed shouldn't be too bad, though I want it "proportional" to the loader. Also, often times one can tap out the one end of a 90 degree fitting and thread in a plug with a hole drilled in it. Little more crude than an adjustable flow control, but it works.
BukitCase
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If you use 1/4" QD's I doubt you'll want to slow it down much more - check out the right column of this chart (near the bottom of the page)
ISO 5675 Agricultural Hydraulic Quick Couplers
3.2 GPM might still be a bit fast for some things, but probably not much... Steve
ISO 5675 Agricultural Hydraulic Quick Couplers
3.2 GPM might still be a bit fast for some things, but probably not much... Steve
Arg. The grapple has 1/4" hoses, and seems to have 1/2" NPT fittings at the ends. So without a funky mess of reducers, that pushes me into 1/2" couplers. I wanted to stay with 3/8" couplers, cause that's what all the other QDs on my tractor are (that I already have a spare set for).
I had hoped I could get 3/8" couplers with 1/2" NPT, but I'm not seeing that.
We'll see, I guess.
I had hoped I could get 3/8" couplers with 1/2" NPT, but I'm not seeing that.
We'll see, I guess.
BukitCase
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Yeah, you CAN feather - but if it's something you NEVER want to SLAM around, you may find that the "heat of battle" will over-ride -
Confused..... Where did the 1/2" get into discussion??!?
Also was that difference just HOSE size, or with JIC's crimped on the hoses instead of NPT?
My personal preference (for this application) if prices were that close, would be 1/4" hoses BUT with 3/8" JIC's on them.
The price difference I saw was when I wanted 1/4" hoses BUT with the more durable 3/8" fittings... Steve
Confused..... Where did the 1/2" get into discussion??!?
Also was that difference just HOSE size, or with JIC's crimped on the hoses instead of NPT?
My personal preference (for this application) if prices were that close, would be 1/4" hoses BUT with 3/8" JIC's on them.
The price difference I saw was when I wanted 1/4" hoses BUT with the more durable 3/8" fittings... Steve
Thanks to MtnView for the valve (shipped Saturday (after making the post office happy about my address) and I got it Monday--via USPS--DANG).
Mocked it up and ordered hoses and fittings.
I snagged a hose off the grapple and used it for mockup.
Also got a pressure gauge to test my pressure.
Anyone have a procedure for adjusting the pressure limit on a LA724?
Anyone know the size fastener that goes on the hose standoffs on the FEL?
Anyone know if the control stick is hollow? How the knob is attached? I'd like a "hurst" style knob, with the wire running through the hollow tube (if it's hollow). I'll epoxy in my own switch if I have to. I don't want/like a big scorpion type handle.
Mocked it up and ordered hoses and fittings.
I snagged a hose off the grapple and used it for mockup.
Also got a pressure gauge to test my pressure.
Anyone have a procedure for adjusting the pressure limit on a LA724?
Anyone know the size fastener that goes on the hose standoffs on the FEL?
Anyone know if the control stick is hollow? How the knob is attached? I'd like a "hurst" style knob, with the wire running through the hollow tube (if it's hollow). I'll epoxy in my own switch if I have to. I don't want/like a big scorpion type handle.
bindian
Super Member
You will have to take it apart and look. Mine was hollow and I made my own joystick button switch installation. You can read and see what I did in post #44 here............http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount-5.html
hugs, Brandi
Brandi, I read through your thread before, actually. Thanks.
Seems the knob is no longer around.
I haven't spent a bunch of time yet, but that knob is on there GOOD. Also need to measure it to see what threads might work.
A Hurst sidewinder seems to be about $65, with a bunch of thread adapters.
Or another place will make them for about $25 + $25 for a button. Or they'll use an actual pool ball (8 ball of course) for $13 + $25 for a button.
Finally, found some on ebay for like $35 shipped, but the wire does NOT appear to go down through the center of the shaft (doesn't matter if my shaft isn't hollow), but I doubt the thread will be compatible (without a bunch of PITA).
Oh, finally, finally, I found one that would probably strap onto the shaft, but the comfort level is about 0, I suspect.
Part of my hose order is on backorder, AND life is just too dang busy. Slow-motion project, at this point...
Seems the knob is no longer around.
I haven't spent a bunch of time yet, but that knob is on there GOOD. Also need to measure it to see what threads might work.
A Hurst sidewinder seems to be about $65, with a bunch of thread adapters.
Or another place will make them for about $25 + $25 for a button. Or they'll use an actual pool ball (8 ball of course) for $13 + $25 for a button.
Finally, found some on ebay for like $35 shipped, but the wire does NOT appear to go down through the center of the shaft (doesn't matter if my shaft isn't hollow), but I doubt the thread will be compatible (without a bunch of PITA).
Oh, finally, finally, I found one that would probably strap onto the shaft, but the comfort level is about 0, I suspect.
Part of my hose order is on backorder, AND life is just too dang busy. Slow-motion project, at this point...
bindian
Super Member
As I remember, there are lots of different styles, at the local O'Reilly auto supply, that would have worked. I used the biggest knob to make it easier. My wires poke out of the lower side of the knob and run down the joystick, held in place with ty-raps (or zip ties for you non aviation types). I too, saw all the knobs online in the over $50 range, including the 8 ball knob. But I was trying to keep the budget low to show others a diverter installation can be completely homemade. One thing I still want to do is wire a master on-off switch into the electrical circuit and mount it on my instrument panel. That way I won't pressurized the grapple circuit with nothing installed past the QDs. Over time and a fat thumb hitting the switch accidently, my QDs seep fluid.
hugs, Brandi
I did look online at O'Reilley, and found nothing.
I decided to make my own. Got an orange #5 billiard ball on Ebay for $6 shipped. Going to get a pack of 6 (supposedly) waterproof switches for $7 from Amazon. I have drills/taps.
I was concerned that the sidewinder (or equivalent) wouldn't be waterproof, since it's for *inside* the car. And the cost seems ridiculous. Of course, I like doing stuff myself, too. It's just a matter of finding the TIME.
The knob on the tractor now is about 1.7". The billiard ball is 2.25, so it'll be quite a bit bigger. But I also need room to mount the switch. Hopefully it is reasonably comfortable.
Like this:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/54-kubota/176587-custom-loader-joystick-knob.html
So yeah, we'll see.
When I put my lights in, I mounted 3 switches, but only needed 2 for the lights. I was going to use it for the aux power outlet I am also going to mount (why have it switched? beats me....). Based on your comment I think I'll use it for the diverter now instead. Thanks!
I decided to make my own. Got an orange #5 billiard ball on Ebay for $6 shipped. Going to get a pack of 6 (supposedly) waterproof switches for $7 from Amazon. I have drills/taps.
I was concerned that the sidewinder (or equivalent) wouldn't be waterproof, since it's for *inside* the car. And the cost seems ridiculous. Of course, I like doing stuff myself, too. It's just a matter of finding the TIME.
The knob on the tractor now is about 1.7". The billiard ball is 2.25, so it'll be quite a bit bigger. But I also need room to mount the switch. Hopefully it is reasonably comfortable.
Like this:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/54-kubota/176587-custom-loader-joystick-knob.html
So yeah, we'll see.
When I put my lights in, I mounted 3 switches, but only needed 2 for the lights. I was going to use it for the aux power outlet I am also going to mount (why have it switched? beats me....). Based on your comment I think I'll use it for the diverter now instead. Thanks!
bindian
Super Member
You're welcome. I thought about the weather also. But no problems with weather affecting the switch operation, after 3 years of use. My problem is losing the switch's cap. So I just leave it off.
I wouldn't glue a nut into the #5 ball. I would tap the threads into the ball.
hugs, Brandi
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