LD1
Epic Contributor
I would agree if it didnt cause a slew of other problems discussed here. Eating metal and fastners, twisting and warping, etc
Pole barn question
- Thread starter rickyb01
- Start date
- Views: 5862
I would agree if it didnt cause a slew of other problems discussed here. Eating metal and fastners, twisting and warping, etc
mx842
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2011
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Richmond Va
- Tractor
- Kubota L3301, PowerKing 2414, John Deere 316, Gravely ZT HD 52
Just a side note but I have seen 2x4's, 2x6's, and 2x8's salt treated boards at Lowes that was actually cheaper at times than reg yellow pine and quite a bit cheaper than the white wood they sell. I used 2x6 salt treated for the roof rafters on both my side sheds off my main building. I used regular 2x4's for the deck boards that the medal lays on and the screws go into. If it's nailed and screwed well it should not be any different than regular untreated wood.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Except it eats common fasterns that arent HDG or stainless
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I would strongly suggest that anybody wanting to use pressure treated lumber for anything above grade, especially trusses, NOT DO THIS!!!! Since the new treatment method began to treat the lumber, it is now wetter then ever before when you buy it. As it dries out, it twists more then ever bofore, and the boards actually shrink like crazy. I've seen it become over an inch shorter in less then a year. If you need 100 boards, you better buy 150 because odds are good that half of them will twist on you before you can use them. I never use 4x4's or 4x6's for anything anymore. The odds are almost 100 percent that you will not have one of them over 8 feet long that will remain straight in a years time.
Every truss or rafter system build relies on air flow to remain dry. Every house and barn would have massive moisture issues if it wasn't for venting. Air flow will keep the lumber dry. There is no reason for using treated wood and a lot of reasons not to use it if you don't need it.
Every truss or rafter system build relies on air flow to remain dry. Every house and barn would have massive moisture issues if it wasn't for venting. Air flow will keep the lumber dry. There is no reason for using treated wood and a lot of reasons not to use it if you don't need it.
GreenYellow
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2015
- Messages
- 228
- Location
- Texarkana, AR
- Tractor
- 1994 John Deere 670 and 1948 John Deere B
Right on Eddie. I said practically the same thing a few posts up. Had some a while back that actually got my shirt wet from carrying it on my shoulder. Couldn't believe how soaked it was. And MAN is it heavy...
I'd hate to see what it looked like after a couple weeks up against a hot metal pole barn roof.
Trusses HAVE to be straight and uniform. Ain't gonna happen with today's PT lumber.
Ok I'm going to build a 24x30 with 6x6 post and steel trusses. I will keep this thread going and just ask my questions as I go. I will be going 3' in the ground and will tar my post prior to putting them in concrete. On digging the hole I will be using a 9" auger. Is it better to drill a hole with a 6" auger and then use the 9" or go 9" from the start. I also will be using a tractor to do this with. Thanks Rick
Second question and this is on squaring my building. When I measure my diagonal lines and one is three inches longer than the other how or what do I move to shorten the longer measurement and keep it sq? Can anybody tell me what the diagonal measurement of a 24x30 will be? Thanks Rick
Square root of 1476 is your diagonal (a squared (24x24=576) + b squared (30x30=900)= c squared (1476). You should be checking your corner square using the same formula via the 3/4/5 or 6/8/10 triangle. (9+16=25; 36+64=100). Measure your sides to 6 and 8 feet, then measure the hypotenuse between the two--should be ten. If every side is on measure and square, the diagonals will be the same.
I'd again encourage you to go up to 32'... 8 foot is the shortest standard length of lumber you can buy, and sheathing comes in 4 foot widths, so you'll be staring at a lot of extra cutting, a pile of 2 foot scab lumber leftover, and extra cuts on the ends if you go that route. You'll pick up 80 square feet, and save time and money.
Do you have the augers? A 12" will give you a lot more room for pole adjustment, and a much thicker chunk of concrete at your post corners. 9" hole on a 6x6 leaves you not much more than an inch thickness at the corners of the 6x6, if you get them perfectly centered.
I used PT to tie rafter ends and roof purlins together, because I knew they'd be wet at least daily when the sun came up, fog or rain soaked routinely, and had no idea how much the barn would sweat. It was heavier, harder to install, and some pieces were stupendously resistant to aluminum or stainless trim nails. It was in all likelihood unnecessary, but made sense at the time... like my 30x40! Make it 32. Now that its up--I wouldn't trade it.
I'd again encourage you to go up to 32'... 8 foot is the shortest standard length of lumber you can buy, and sheathing comes in 4 foot widths, so you'll be staring at a lot of extra cutting, a pile of 2 foot scab lumber leftover, and extra cuts on the ends if you go that route. You'll pick up 80 square feet, and save time and money.
Do you have the augers? A 12" will give you a lot more room for pole adjustment, and a much thicker chunk of concrete at your post corners. 9" hole on a 6x6 leaves you not much more than an inch thickness at the corners of the 6x6, if you get them perfectly centered.
I used PT to tie rafter ends and roof purlins together, because I knew they'd be wet at least daily when the sun came up, fog or rain soaked routinely, and had no idea how much the barn would sweat. It was heavier, harder to install, and some pieces were stupendously resistant to aluminum or stainless trim nails. It was in all likelihood unnecessary, but made sense at the time... like my 30x40! Make it 32. Now that its up--I wouldn't trade it.
brown40 I appreciate your feed back. On the pole barn I'm building and it will be only a cover. The metal trusses attach to the 6x6 poles. I will have 4 sets of 6x6 post and 4 trusses. I will then put 2x6 on edge spanning 10' for purlins. There really isn't any waste at all. The first way I was doing it on the traditional wood pole barn I agree the 24x32 would have worked out better. Thanks again on the 12" auger suggestion I will try and find a friend that has a bigger one.
On the sq root of 1476 I get 38.418745 and I have no clue what that equals to in inches but I can tell it's just shy of 38.5" Thanks again Rick
On the sq root of 1476 I get 38.418745 and I have no clue what that equals to in inches but I can tell it's just shy of 38.5" Thanks again Rick
LD1
Epic Contributor
38.418'
take 0.418 x 12 = 5"
so 38'5"
Agreed, you need a 12' auger. And still may end up adjusting a bit with a hand digger.
Squaring is easy. Set two posts 24' apart. Once they are exactly 24' apart and plumb, no need to move them anymore.
Take a tape measure and measure out 30' from the one post, and draw a line (more like an arc.) Do the same from the other post you already set but using your 38'5" measure. X marks the spot. Where the two lines intersect is that corner. (outside corner). Auger the hole, set the post double checking the measurement.
Do the same thing for the last corner.
For the posts in between. use a string between corners.
take 0.418 x 12 = 5"
so 38'5"
Agreed, you need a 12' auger. And still may end up adjusting a bit with a hand digger.
Squaring is easy. Set two posts 24' apart. Once they are exactly 24' apart and plumb, no need to move them anymore.
Take a tape measure and measure out 30' from the one post, and draw a line (more like an arc.) Do the same from the other post you already set but using your 38'5" measure. X marks the spot. Where the two lines intersect is that corner. (outside corner). Auger the hole, set the post double checking the measurement.
Do the same thing for the last corner.
For the posts in between. use a string between corners.