F.E.L failure and fatality......06/06/2015 Tennessee

[aczlan]

So sorry for the family's loss. This thread was a great reminder to properly block my mower before removing blades and cleaning the deck. Picture was taken before placing a stack of 10 inch concrete blocks underneath the front axle and chocking the rear.

I would suggest chunks of wood (20" rounds of the height you need?) before concrete blocks.

Have used concrete blocks, (We called them, cinder blocks) most of my younger years for jack stands.
Always use them as if they were being used in a wall....As a brick mason would lay them in a building, the long way with the holes facing UP. This is how concrete blocks were designed to be used for building and supporting weight.
(Ever seen the Karate guys break them with their bare hands. They break them with the sides facing up.)
ALWAYS use a 2x8, as long as the block, on top of the block to support the weight.
ALWAYS support weight in the middle of the block over the webbing with the 2x8 between the load and the stone block. The webbing is the partition, inside the block, in the middle.
NEVER use them outside on the dirt/grass for jack stands, unless you double them by staggering them on top of each other.
My 2 Cents.
An old friends wife came home from work one afternoon to find her husband missing.
Thats right. They/she found him under his truck, in the yard. The concrete blocks had shifted in the soft soil, the truck fell, and crushed his chest.
Harbor Freight sells GREAT jack stands at great prices.
We're not even talking, yet, about the potential damage to your car or your garage when the car falls using concrete blocks.

Aaron Z

 

[txdon]

One of our Texas members just died from a tractor accident, details unknown, and I think all the time spent on reminding ourselves to be as safe as possible is time well spent.

When we get the details in the Texas accident that happened last week they will be relayed. We do know it involved lifting a mower with the FEL.

 

[bdog]

This is the one thing I dislike about skid steers. Anytime you lift something you have to crawl under the raised loader to hook and unhook it. It makes me nervous everytime.

 

[lakeside]

I think most of us (OK, me) have done things that, in hindsight, were pretty stupid. We (usually) got away with it but when we hear of people getting killed it brings home that we need to keep our head in the game. Complacency kills.

I was in the Army a long time, most of that working around heavy equipment. Two things stick out, NEVER get under a slung load and NEVER walk over a live cable (any cable that's hooked up at both ends) I'd also add that you have to keep an eye out for people when working with any equipment. Many folks don't know how to behave around moving equipment and sometimes assume you know they're there.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Ok, so here's a learning moment. After how many years should one replace hydraulic hoses even if they look fine?
Could preventative maintenance have saved a life here?

Here's a decent site to start with. Know When to Replace Your Hydraulic Hose Assemblies

They say,
"
- leaking around fittings or along the hose
- crushed hoses
- abrasion - any exposed wire reinforcement is a sure sign of need for replacement
- any significant damage to the outer cover beyond scuffs and small nicks
- twisted hoses (may indicate a need for a swivel or different routing)
- kinks (may indicate incorrect routing - bend radius below minimum specified by the manufacturer)
- cracked or corroded fittings (red rust is cause for concern, white oxidation is acceptable)
"

I would add that the rubber should not be crumbly at all, and should not have cracks. If it's cracking or crumbling, replace it.


Hydraulic lines should be inspected similar to inspecting hydraulic brake lines.
If the lines are steel, they shouldn't have more than superficial rust spots. If you have extensive rust and pitting, replace them. Also, if the lines were bent, they shouldn't have any kinks. Kinking is a failure point. Replace it.

 

[kco]

Sorry to hear about the accident.

I appreciate the Kubota dealer who installed the Buhler 195 loader on my second hand Kubota L275DT tractor 12 years ago. When he delivered it he took the time to run through safety tips including NEVER getting under a raised loader. The attached figure shows the instructions for the lift lock supplied with the Buhler 195. It is a small channel iron with notches that you place in the loader pin. They only supplied one rather than two suggested by the instructions. He told me to make sure that was always in place if working under the loader.

View attachment 434521

I asked about a loader lock when I traded in the Kubota L275DT for my Kioti DK35 SE, but they are not available. I still mentally thank that salesman for pointing out a danger I llkely would not have otherwise recognised.

 

[Todd727]

This is the one thing I dislike about skid steers. Anytime you lift something you have to crawl under the raised loader to hook and unhook it. It makes me nervous everytime.

Don't do it. Get a set of pallet forks and a boom pole.

 

[jimmyj]

Sobering thread. Thanks for sharing and so sorry to hear about the loss of your friend. Makes you think doesn't it.

 

[crashz]

This is the one thing I dislike about skid steers. Anytime you lift something you have to crawl under the raised loader to hook and unhook it. It makes me nervous everytime.

A labor was killed last year on a job next to mine doing this. The boom crushed him. There are many per year.

This is the reason I'm getting rid on my Bobcat. I'm usually a one-man show, so that means I need to park the loader to get out and do something. Its not practical or easy, but I'm not going to get killed over it either. A bigger tractor with loader will allow me to get off of the machine with the boom up if needed.

 

[FTG-05]

Sorry to hear about the accident.

I appreciate the Kubota dealer who installed the Buhler 195 loader on my second hand Kubota L275DT tractor 12 years ago. When he delivered it he took the time to run through safety tips including NEVER getting under a raised loader. The attached figure shows the instructions for the lift lock supplied with the Buhler 195. It is a small channel iron with notches that you place in the loader pin. They only supplied one rather than two suggested by the instructions. He told me to make sure that was always in place if working under the loader.

View attachment 434521

I asked about a loader lock when I traded in the Kubota L275DT for my Kioti DK35 SE, but they are not available. I still mentally thank that salesman for pointing out a danger I llkely would not have otherwise recognised.

TBN says your attachment is invalid. I'm very interested in seeing pics of loader locks.

Condolences to the family of the victim. I hope he didn't suffer.