vtsnowedin
Elite Member
He had me at the cab'd tractor but the rest of his list is right up there.
Snow Attachments Blower or plow. Which is best?
- Thread starter B Colton
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kco
Veteran Member
I have only used a tractor rear blade before switching to a pull-type blower after several years. The pull-type blower is far quicker for my conditions and I never use the rear blade. In fact, my neighbour has it and I just get it if I need it, which has been a couple of times in the last few years. I used to grade my 800' gravel drive with it but find the landscape rake with guage wheels far more effective.
As others have noted, I think the most effective snow clearing tool depends on local weather conditions and driveway configurations. For my area's winter a blower is more effective than a blade. We normally get a damp fall and then cool weather which freezes the driveway. The following early snows are generally light and can be packed over the gravel. Starting in mid December we get several 6" to 8" snows with one or two heavier snows. It is cloudy and humid most of the winter so the snow never leaves--it just gets deeper and more dense. With a rear blade the snow gets so heavy that the angled blade eventually pushes the rear of the tractor sideways (even with chains). So you eventually need to plow in reverse to push the now-frozen piles into the ditch.
I have a neighbour with a truck plow who calls once a year to get me to move the snow banks with the loader and blower. There are other neighbours who appreciate help with heavier snow dumps because the blades can't effectively move it far enough off the road.
I think a blower is quicker than a blade for clearing wide parking areas or turn-arounds.
I regularly clear three other 1,200' driveways. I would not be able to do that with a rear blade. Driving in reverse to knock down piles is too hard on my back.
The gravel driveways aren't a problem since they generally have a packed snow base and no large rocks. But in the spring the snow base can melt. You can manage that by raising the blower on skid shoes or changing the angle with the top link so it is less aggressive. The other key is to have good consistent gravel on the surface and grade it so the crown is not too steep.
One of the driveway's gravel is as good so rocks can be a problem if there is not a good snow base. Rocks can also fall from a steep bank in mild weather. I handle that by adjusting the skids and keeping farther from the bank.
A cab would be nice but is not critical for my area. There is virtually no wind. Besides, I'm one of those who actually enjoys winter and snow(especially snow). That's another advantage of a pull-type over a front-mount blower on a cabless tractor. You don't drive through the blown snow.
An important option to consider if you do get a blower is a hydraulic or electric chute rotator. It is handy for the areas I clear.
As others have noted, I think the most effective snow clearing tool depends on local weather conditions and driveway configurations. For my area's winter a blower is more effective than a blade. We normally get a damp fall and then cool weather which freezes the driveway. The following early snows are generally light and can be packed over the gravel. Starting in mid December we get several 6" to 8" snows with one or two heavier snows. It is cloudy and humid most of the winter so the snow never leaves--it just gets deeper and more dense. With a rear blade the snow gets so heavy that the angled blade eventually pushes the rear of the tractor sideways (even with chains). So you eventually need to plow in reverse to push the now-frozen piles into the ditch.
I have a neighbour with a truck plow who calls once a year to get me to move the snow banks with the loader and blower. There are other neighbours who appreciate help with heavier snow dumps because the blades can't effectively move it far enough off the road.
I think a blower is quicker than a blade for clearing wide parking areas or turn-arounds.
I regularly clear three other 1,200' driveways. I would not be able to do that with a rear blade. Driving in reverse to knock down piles is too hard on my back.
The gravel driveways aren't a problem since they generally have a packed snow base and no large rocks. But in the spring the snow base can melt. You can manage that by raising the blower on skid shoes or changing the angle with the top link so it is less aggressive. The other key is to have good consistent gravel on the surface and grade it so the crown is not too steep.
One of the driveway's gravel is as good so rocks can be a problem if there is not a good snow base. Rocks can also fall from a steep bank in mild weather. I handle that by adjusting the skids and keeping farther from the bank.
A cab would be nice but is not critical for my area. There is virtually no wind. Besides, I'm one of those who actually enjoys winter and snow(especially snow). That's another advantage of a pull-type over a front-mount blower on a cabless tractor. You don't drive through the blown snow.
An important option to consider if you do get a blower is a hydraulic or electric chute rotator. It is handy for the areas I clear.
CJONE
Veteran Member
8' snow box in front and a 7' rear facing blower. I looked at the pull behinds and they are great unless you get 3-4' drifts like we do or blow banks back from plow trucks. That is the main use for mine. The pull behinds work great for getting close to doors and clearing long drive/roads so you don't have to look back. I guess if I had to choose 1 it would be the snow pusher for the amount of snow we get. Not unusual to wake up to 2'+ in one night. The most I have seen in a while was 37" from lake effect. It fell in just a few hours. The add drifting, it can be fun! CJ
hutchman
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2014
- Messages
- 1,448
- Location
- Central Virginia
- Tractor
- LS R3039, Deere SST16, Ariens APEX 60", Polaris Ranger 900 XP EPS
I guess I could start a new thread about this (not trying to hijack) but has anyone converted a rear 3pt. blower you have to drive backwards with to hydro with a skid steer mount and then use it on the front? I see used PTO blowers come up for sale and I often wonder if you have fabrication tools how hard it would be to convert to something that can be used on the FEL.
Fiziksgeek
Platinum Member
I've been thinking about this for a while, but I have a small tractor, and probably can't afford to give up the power loss, but sounds great in theory if you have enough hp. A pto power pump and hydraulic tank on the rear, hoses run to the front, and a mount for a hydraulic motor and you should be good to go. You can buy FEL mounted blower set-ups, but they are awfully pricey.
CJONE
Veteran Member
I have supplied the hydraulics and helped on a few different units. Very few tractors have the hydraulic capacity to drive a blower. Most would need to have a pto driven power pack built. All the ones I have been involved with have had the pto driven unit. CJ
Got2BTru
Silver Member
Interesting discussion. We'll have 1300' to plow/throw. I think just for the sheer fact of cost, I'll be plowing first. Just need to make sure I can angle the blade...would be nice to be able to adjust the angle from inside the tractor cab!
CJONE
Veteran Member
If you have a remote, all you do is hook the port on the back of each single acting cylinder [2] to each port on your remote. 2 double acting cylinders need to be teed. CJ
green raider
New member
the only people who could think a blade is better than a blower, have not used a blower yet.
farm boy00
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2014
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- 1,297
- Location
- Howard City, MI
- Tractor
- John Deere M&MT, Case 1030 comfort king, Sears ST16, Craftsmen 6000, homemade articulation mini-loader
Or have major neck and or back problems and can't afford a front mount snow blower