Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing...

   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #1  

bill333

Silver Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Northern VA
Tractor
Kubota 3540
Ford 1220, it sat for a few months. When I went to start it, it turned slowly, then nothing, dash lights on but dim. Battery was old and low, replaced it. Cleaned battery terminals and and connection to ground and starter.

When I turned the key with the new battery, I heard one loud click (like the sound you get when a connection isn't good). Then nothing, no sound, and no dash lights. Rechecked the post connections, the main battery wires, and their connections.

I have a nice 12 volts at the starter to ground. When I have the key set in the first detent position (either way, i.e. the start position or the glow plug position) I get no lights, and no power to the three fuses. I get a few volts at the red wire on the starter that (I think) comes from the red (non battery) wire on the ignition switch.

I don't have a wiring diagram, so I don't know what else to check. The wires are bundled so they are a bit hard to follow.

Could this be the ignition switch?

Should I be getting 12 v at the fuses with just the switch on? Or does the power go through the regulator or a relay before it gets there?

Any suggestions for what I should check or what else it could be?

Many thanks.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #2  
Sounds like the ignition switch. Check and make sure the wires going into the switch are tight and not corroded. If that's all good you can try spraying contact cleaner in there and work the key back and forth.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #3  
Seems to me most of the earlier compacts have a fusible link in the harness. It should be near the starter positive cable post. Usually a larger wire (12 or 14 gauge) through which power is supplied to the switches for lights, gauges, and all that.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing...
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks, I'll try both ideas. The contacts on the ignition looked nice and clean, but I hope it is something simple like that or the fusible link, because a new switch is $140...
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #5  
If you don't have a wiring diagram, then look at the parts diagram. At least it will give a clue what is on the tractor and where. A quick look up for your tractor on the new Holland parts section shows that there is in fact a fusable link. I think it was number 7 in the diagram and showed general location where it was
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing...
  • Thread Starter
#6  
If you don't have a wiring diagram, then look at the parts diagram. At least it will give a clue what is on the tractor and where. A quick look up for your tractor on the new Holland parts section shows that there is in fact a fusable link. I think it was number 7 in the diagram and showed general location where it was

Thanks. I did just that, and it is very helpful. I'm assuming the fusible link comes after the ignition (i.e. power from battery directly to switch, then out from switch through fusible link to starter and fuses.). If that's not it (if the fusible link is between the battery and the ignition) then I'm really confused, because I am getting 12 v at the positive in at the ignition switch.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #7  
Everything I've worked on had the fusible link before switch. The only tractor experience I have offs on my own. But the automotive, diesel, and transport refrigeration I've dealt with has been before key. Are you using a voltmeter or a test light to check?
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing...
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I'm using a voltmeter.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing... #9  
There are other ground wires to check besides the main ground from the battery. My tractor has three ground wire bundles on the frame to ground the instrumentation and other accessories.
Might check them.
 
   / Ford 1220 won't start, no lights, nothing...
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Mine appears to just have the one ground from the negative battery post directly to the frame. It looked good but I cleaned it anyway. If I take a battery tester and run the positive to the battery post and the negative to anyplace on the frame, I get a very strong reading. Same goes for the positive red wire going from the ignition switch to ground.

Does anyone know which ignition switch wires I could try to 'short' to bypass the ignition? The switch has 5 wires, two of them are red (the larger +12 v direct (?) from the battery, and a second slightly thinner red and white stripe.

I've ordered a shop manual but am not sure if it will tell me this.
 

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