14x20 Shed Construction Questions

[paulharvey]

16x20/24×$30 is 400. You don't have to have 2nd layer but it does make it feel solid, less noise. Cheap Osb on top of that. $200. Not sure cost 2x8s. Should go green, I think code because with in some many inches of ground. People don't though.

A crawl space is not treated.
Bikes are dead weight, 1000 lbs. Though with 2 layers 9f plywood probably ok. Ask a real builders, not people tractor forum. That much weight us the only thing not sure, other wise just a small ranch house

Concrete is only 3.5-4 Cy x $90-110/cy. So 4" of concrete for the price of the plywood, and no need for PT 2x6 or 2x8. Not trying to argue, just pointing out that concrete is not that expensive compared to plywood, joists, fasteners, ect. It's not my shed, and I have no dog in the fight.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Unless I am missing something this sounds awful, like something on an old farm.

Going to rot. You could put few inches of gravel first. Not sure about how stable or level.


I would build on poles or concrete. You can trusses for 24 span.


Homes are 24 across with no support under floors or ceilings.

What I'm trying to describe is a pole barn with a wooden floor. The poles hold up the walls and the roof. The floor is pressure treated 2x4's directly on grade, clad in plywood. This is based on the assumption that you really want a wooden floor. I agree with others that for a shed a concrete floor is just a better choice.

 

[Zerk]

I've got two pole barns, and three sheds with floors. None on grade. I don't think you will get it level enough to use 2x4s. Putting the floor directly on grade is a poor Idea in my opinion. I same it has be done. I doubt it would fly inspected, not that I am into that.

When floors are near grade I don't think they should use ground for support. Because not level enough and earth moves.

I think it is a bad idea.


I re read your post. You plan on using poles to support floor, which I agree with. But 2x4s are way to small. In my opinion. I would go 2x8 all the way across no support in middle.

2x4s don't have much use other than walls and tie things together. Plus 2x4 walls are not used if you are going to insulate. Though my places were built with 2x4 walls.

 

[Zerk]

Concrete is only 3.5-4 Cy x $90-110/cy. So 4" of concrete for the price of the plywood, and no need for PT 2x6 or 2x8. Not trying to argue, just pointing out that concrete is not that expensive compared to plywood, joists, fasteners, ect. It's not my shed, and I have no dog in the fight.

I should confess I have not priced concrete, because I figured out of my budget. Maybe I am wrong. But it is easy to spend other people's money.


I think it is small but if he only has or two bikes, it is ok. Mine is 20x24, I got 3 bikes and it is tight, attached garage. But my pole barn is 10 feet away with more benches and material. Plus another garden shed. Plus wood shop is in basement though sometimes barn.


If this is where he has to go cause wife has garage, and plans on more then bike work, he will need more sheds. Garden sheds are good for shovels and such.


Sadly these days many man have lost the garage. To secure mine, I bought another harley.

 

[Zerk]

Pricey but I would think about insulating whatever floor you use. You can't do it latter. Insulation and for vapor.


If I had the money I would do concrete with in floor heat, off a boiler, or maybe water heater if insulated good. That would have to get figured by a pro.

My family is in the business and heard stories about pissed off customers who would not insulate. Either lots money every month or unable to heat it. But I am talking UP. Down south different.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

My 12x16 shed is built on pt 4x4s 24"oc with 3/4" flooring direct on top. Framed walls on top w/ osb siding. 4x4s leveled with blocks under them. cost around $1000 to build. truss and shingle roof. now 18 years old.
Parked my small tractor in it for years without a problem. do have groundhogs under it. I built it before owning a tractor. Today i would level a pad first, put gravel down. Then build on top of runners. I would close off access to the underside.

 

[jcook5003]

I would love to build a mega 40x60 shop or even 24' as others have said. My small lot and budget dont work for that though. I've always thought sure a huge shop is nice, I mean I love the 24x80 at my moms farm but I just cant have that where I am.

14 or 16 x 20 is what will fit and what i can afford. It's what I will build.

I agree that motorcycles are a true point load of around 800 pounds on two 3" contact patches, not ideal for a wooden floor. I have gone out and looked at my site again. If I ate up a little backyard I could pour a slab. This gets me into inspections, but I've never had a problem with the barns I've built for other people or myself. So maybe this is best. A 14 or 16 foot wide by 20 foot long slab isnt that much concrete, I know a guy who will finish it for $1/sq.ft. That seems like a good deal to me. Then I only buy material. I think the best option is a footer with CMU stemwall to above grade by 12", gravel backfill after topsoil removal, pour the floating slab inside the CMU wall. I can level the gravel and moisture barrier and lay and tie the remesh.

My queston is, for $1 a sq. ft. is it even worth attempting to finish it myself. I poured a 10x24 pad in my horse barn, but it was only a tack room and wash rack. I worry about getting a much smoother nicer level finish myself on a slightly larger pad. On the 10' wide pour I could screed the concrete with a single board. Not much worry about it being a chore, this will be too wide to screed myself.

 

[paulharvey]

I would love to build a mega 40x60 shop or even 24' as others have said. My small lot and budget dont work for that though. I've always thought sure a huge shop is nice, I mean I love the 24x80 at my moms farm but I just cant have that where I am.

14 or 16 x 20 is what will fit and what i can afford. It's what I will build.

I agree that motorcycles are a true point load of around 800 pounds on two 3" contact patches, not ideal for a wooden floor. I have gone out and looked at my site again. If I ate up a little backyard I could pour a slab. This gets me into inspections, but I've never had a problem with the barns I've built for other people or myself. So maybe this is best. A 14 or 16 foot wide by 20 foot long slab isnt that much concrete, I know a guy who will finish it for $1/sq.ft. That seems like a good deal to me. Then I only buy material. I think the best option is a footer with CMU stemwall to above grade by 12", gravel backfill after topsoil removal, pour the floating slab inside the CMU wall. I can level the gravel and moisture barrier and lay and tie the remesh.

My queston is, for $1 a sq. ft. is it even worth attempting to finish it myself. I poured a 10x24 pad in my horse barn, but it was only a tack room and wash rack. I worry about getting a much smoother nicer level finish myself on a slightly larger pad. On the 10' wide pour I could screed the concrete with a single board. Not much worry about it being a chore, this will be too wide to screed myself.

To me, I would rather be out a sore back and legs, and some beer to a friend or two, then be out $280, but if you would need to buy/rent comalongs, bull float, edgers, and a Fresno, you would probably be about even. Do you want steel trowel funish, or broom; and if broom, can you live with a bull float and broom.

 

[EddieWalker]

I always hire out the finish work. This is how I prefer to do concrete work. I like to set my forms, dig out my footings, run my utilities if I have any, and tie my rebar and set it on chairs myself. I've seen where if you hire a crew to do everything, they sometimes like to skip things, or maybe not do it the way I want it done, and if I'm paying them do to it my way, I don't want to have to also be the supervisor making sure they do it my way.

Getting concrete smooth and nice looking is one of those skills that you have to do it a lot to become good at it. For such a small amount of money, and for something you will have to live with for the rest of your life, there is no question that hiring a pro to finish it is a smart move.

 

[Zerk]

Maybe weight of bike isn't a big deal. Think of a couch with three big people.

I think size will be ok, if you can keep other junk out, or store it well.

I enjoy laying out shops. I would bring 240 out. One of my pole barns only has 1 20 amp circuit, I blow it a bit.

Not to mention air compressor.