05 CK30 running fine, quits, now won't start

[k0ua]

I am confused, the machine was running down the driveway and stopped. How could that be the battery, once it is running you can disconnect the battery and it would still run? I thought that a diesel would continue to run without any electrical input until it runs out of fuel. Don't you have to stop the fuel flow to stop a diesel?
Obviously I am not a mechanic of any sort, just curious.

Well you sort of answered your own question. Shutting off fuel flow will kill a diesel. Correct. On your CK 20 do you have a mechanical knob or lever to shut off the fuel flow? I would bet you turn off the key switch, correct? How does that work? I bet it is a solenoid on the front of the injector pump that is powered by electricity. Now I can't be sure on a CK 20. But I am betting it works like all of its larger brothers, and most modern tractors from any manufacturer. The last one I owned with a manual fuel shutoff knob was a B7500 Kubota. Everything since shuts off with a key switch.

 

[DK35vince]

I am confused, the machine was running down the driveway and stopped. How could that be the battery, once it is running you can disconnect the battery and it would still run? I thought that a diesel would continue to run without any electrical input until it runs out of fuel. Don't you have to stop the fuel flow to stop a diesel?
Obviously I am not a mechanic of any sort, just curious.

Like kOua said, if your tractor has a mechanical shutdown (pull a lever or cable to shutdown) it will stay running without electric.
If the tractor turns off with the key it has an electric solenoid that needs electric to hold it in the run position.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I am confused, the machine was running down the driveway and stopped. How could that be the battery, once it is running you can disconnect the battery and it would still run? I thought that a diesel would continue to run without any electrical input until it runs out of fuel. Don't you have to stop the fuel flow to stop a diesel?
Obviously I am not a mechanic of any sort, just curious.

The CK and DK engines had two different stop solenoid versions.

In the older version (pre 05/06/07) an external stop solenoid on the right side of the engine actuated the manual stop lever for several seconds after the key switch was turned off. In that version, the engine would, indeed, run with the battery disconnected, although disconnecting the battery (with engine running) might blow diodes in the alternator.

In the newer version, the stop solenoid bolts to the front of the engine block with no external linkages (but there is still a manual stop lever). In that new version, the stop solenoid is spring-loaded to the stop position so continuous current through the "hold" coil (from the key switch) is required for the engine to run. In this new version, the engine will stop if power is lost.

In both cases, there is not a separate fuel shutoff valve but fuel is shutoff by forcing the injection pump rack to the full aft (zero fuel injected) position.

Different CK and DK models converted from the old stop solenoid setup to the new one at various times between 2005 and 2007 (I think), probably when they consumed all the old parts. You can look at the online parts listing (e.g. on the MIE site) to see the exact serial number when each model went to the new version.

 

[cmisavage]

Well all, thank you for your advice and fingers pointing in the directions this chase could be going... it's finished. After all the shiny new parts, it was a shiny new battery cable like suggested from the beginning. I will say it was an inconsistent one for I did check this early and in the middle and was getting full juice to the starter. But, starting from scratch again, I got an inconsistent one and decided to go for the new cables. Had to make them to get to it right away and BOOM BOOM, it all went as it should.

So, buzzing relays are from lower than needed power and ticks can come from many places depending on the amount of battery power things get.

I'm not a machine guy (yet) and truly appreciate all your help.

Now I got to get to work...

 

[k0ua]

Well all, thank you for your advice and fingers pointing in the directions this chase could be going... it's finished. After all the shiny new parts, it was a shiny new battery cable like suggested from the beginning. I will say it was an inconsistent one for I did check this early and in the middle and was getting full juice to the starter. But, starting from scratch again, I got an inconsistent one and decided to go for the new cables. Had to make them to get to it right away and BOOM BOOM, it all went as it should.

So, buzzing relays are from lower than needed power and ticks can come from many places depending on the amount of battery power things get.

I'm not a machine guy (yet) and truly appreciate all your help.

Now I got to get to work...

Glad you got it going. Yes the infamous corroded on the inside battery cable strikes again. All makes all models can suffer from this.

As an aside, In all of my years of owning tractors, I have never had this problem. I wonder if it is because when I get a new tractor I liberally coat all of the connections and cable ends with No-OX-Id.? Which is a type of grease made just for the purpose of coating battery contacts and terminals. Every car and truck I own, gets this treatment. I don't sell the stuff, and I have never bought any either. I still have my lifetime supply from left overs after installing telephone PBX battery plants for so many years. They always shipped more than enough to coat the battery terminals and connections. I just always took it home instead of throwing the remainder away. But you can buy the stuff. I am not positive it is any better than just regular grease, but the manufacturer says it is.

I have also always used it in any trailer connector contacts. Also when installing antenna L brackets on an automobile I always dip the screws into it before screwing into the sheetmetal. I can testify that years later when your remove the screws from the metal there will be no rust or corrosion in the holes/screws. I have done this for years... yep, it is a snake oil "cure all" for corrosion.. I Don't know what is in it, all I can tell you is it has worked for me for decades.

http://www.sanchem.com/docs/NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade.pdf