jrepp44
Bronze Member
Have you considered some type of prefabbed shelter?
Life Pod Premium Storm Shelters - ATSA Approved
Life Pod Premium Storm Shelters - ATSA Approved
Your thoughts on my basement plans
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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Streetcar
Veteran Member
Eddie
You are reading incorrect on water pressure. If it rains ,the water will get on your foundation . The water will exert the lift force ,if your basement is water tight and there is no drainage. The boat effect does not need to be at the water table to happen
You are reading incorrect on water pressure. If it rains ,the water will get on your foundation . The water will exert the lift force ,if your basement is water tight and there is no drainage. The boat effect does not need to be at the water table to happen
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
No plans on going prefab, cheaper and easier to build it myself in place. There is also going to be a garden room above the basement room, and the foundation of the addition will rest on one wall of the basement room.
My red clay will hold some moisture in it down several feet, but it's red clay and water does not soak into it very well. Runoff is much more common over undisturbed soil. I' not totally against a sump pump, I'm just having my doubts that it's needed
My red clay will hold some moisture in it down several feet, but it's red clay and water does not soak into it very well. Runoff is much more common over undisturbed soil. I' not totally against a sump pump, I'm just having my doubts that it's needed
/pine
Super Star Member
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Are you joking? do you even have a clue what a grad student is?
Oh but I guess you would suggest getting "professional advice" from a bunch of amateur builders (tractor enthusiasts)...that may or may not have some construction experience but have never been exposed to the theories that support engineering practices???
Get real...!
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I like that I can get 60 and even 90 ml liners for what seems like a fair price online. Thicker would sure be a lot stronger. The stuff sold for basements is pretty thin, which makes me wonder how long it lasts for? My experience with concrete and forms is that the concrete will stick to it really good, which means no movement between the concrete and the rubber liner. I can easily frame up the rebar after the floor is poured using boards overhead to tie onto. I don't see this as much of a challenge. For max strength, I will either go with 12 inch spacing, or mix rebar panels in with the upright rebar. To me, this is all simple stuff.
Going with block would be more traditional, but I feel that's what leads to more issues over a solid poured concrete wall.
The biggest question is how long would the rubber liner last under ground? From all I know about rubber, it should be fine for decades, even a century shouldn't show any wear or be cause for failure if it's just against smooth red clay.
Going with block would be more traditional, but I feel that's what leads to more issues over a solid poured concrete wall.
The biggest question is how long would the rubber liner last under ground? From all I know about rubber, it should be fine for decades, even a century shouldn't show any wear or be cause for failure if it's just against smooth red clay.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
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FWIW...
In FL, where in many places the soil is too sandy to actually hold water for ponds...even ponds of an acre or more were lined with membranes that were cemented at the seams...
In FL, where in many places the soil is too sandy to actually hold water for ponds...even ponds of an acre or more were lined with membranes that were cemented at the seams...
Eddie I just can't figure out if your ground slopes way, water table is 30' lower than foundation, and you have the means to dig yourself why you wouldn't just pour traditional walls and lay drain tile around the perimeter of the basement. Run the tile to daylight and be done. You could put in a sump but given the water table location you would probably never need it. The drain tile would take care of any water that did make it's way to the bottom of the foundation. Can you not get the tile to daylight?
In our area, if someone builds a basement in an area that can't get a pipe to "daylight", I've see the following arrangement: traditional basement poured, drainage tile around it (sometimes as many as 3 layers - 1 at the footer, 1 about 2' up from the footer and 1 at about 4' up from the footer), then the tile leads 10' to 20' away from the basement to a dry well - usually a hole dug about 3' or 4' deeper than the basement. The hole is filled with large stone, then concrete manhole rings are laid on top to get the top of it to grade. A sump pump is installed in the bottom of the dry well and connected to a drainage pipe near the top of the sump, and then that pipe is usually shallow-buried and sent to daylight.
In cases of light rain/moisture, the drywell collects the water and lets it drain. In cases of extreme rainfall, the pump can direct the water away. I'm sure that a 2-stage pump could be installed with multiple level switches if that were required.
I don't know how an option like this would compare to what Eddie is think of doing, either; just an example of what I have seen locally.
Good luck and take care.
In cases of light rain/moisture, the drywell collects the water and lets it drain. In cases of extreme rainfall, the pump can direct the water away. I'm sure that a 2-stage pump could be installed with multiple level switches if that were required.
I don't know how an option like this would compare to what Eddie is think of doing, either; just an example of what I have seen locally.
Good luck and take care.
Wood_Butcher_Dav
Gold Member
Eddie,
Are you sure your dead set against a above ground structure, can't find my plans on this computer, but U of Iowa had some plans that I used for my 12 X 12 above ground breeze way. Basically CMU with re-bar vertical and horizontal and all voids filled with mortar then 4" pored flat roof with re-bar. Framed conventional 5/12 pitched roof over flat. Reinforced steel (filled with foam) entrance doors.
Dave
Are you sure your dead set against a above ground structure, can't find my plans on this computer, but U of Iowa had some plans that I used for my 12 X 12 above ground breeze way. Basically CMU with re-bar vertical and horizontal and all voids filled with mortar then 4" pored flat roof with re-bar. Framed conventional 5/12 pitched roof over flat. Reinforced steel (filled with foam) entrance doors.
Dave
Streetcar
Veteran Member
/pine
the architect can give you advice that may not be better than that received from a tractor forum.
In Ohio a grad student in engineering could get in ethics problems if they give engineering advice for pay.
Ps I work with licensed architects alot and with registered engineers all of the time.And never trust an architects ENGINEERING judgement
